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Thread: The MAGnificent Mysterious leak No one can Fix.

  1. #1

    The MAGnificent Mysterious leak No one can Fix.

    I have a trigger/rail leak as many posts Ive been reading have and been trying to fix this but no one seems to be able to. But heres my story.

    Quit playing in 2006 and gun been in bag since. Some friends "discovered" paintball and wanted to play so I ofcourse dusted off my Mag. Drop some oil in it and gun still shot perfectly but I knew a leak was sure to come soon as old as it was so ordered X-valve kit to be ready.
    3 cases later got my first leak...small black vent hole on valve. No problem easy fix Regulator Piston Assembly $30. While I was waiting for that part to come in I said what better time to clean and change the o-rings. During which 2 days later leaving gun parts out on work bench my kids lost my Reg valve Pin Assembly...ok no problem ordered whole new one $30. Cleaned and replaced 2 white and small black rings on ULE trigger. waited for parts and boom now leaks at trigger/rail. Spent hours reading forums taking apart recleaning redoing shims etc. vary sad.

    Quick recap
    Gun rips 100%
    Leak stops when hold trigger down
    Regulator Piston Assembly NEW $30
    Reg Valve Pin Assembly NEW $30
    ULE white and small black o-ring replaced ( new x-valve kit )

    Tried powertube shims 0-3... 4+ causes barrel leak
    Tried multiple L10 carriers - current one is as snug as it can be without bolt stick
    Tried ULE shims 0-3 ... 4+ and its to long and can fit in body

    Speant hours reading and cleaning and rearanging shims with no luck
    Anyone has a fix for this Please let me know...Thx !!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    offshore
    Posts
    8,380
    Quote Originally Posted by Grimmstone View Post
    I have a trigger/rail leak as many posts Ive been reading have and been trying to fix this but no one seems to be able to. But heres my story.

    Quit playing in 2006 and gun been in bag since. Some friends "discovered" paintball and wanted to play so I ofcourse dusted off my Mag. Drop some oil in it and gun still shot perfectly but I knew a leak was sure to come soon as old as it was so ordered X-valve kit to be ready.
    3 cases later got my first leak...small black vent hole on valve. No problem easy fix Regulator Piston Assembly $30. While I was waiting for that part to come in I said what better time to clean and change the o-rings. During which 2 days later leaving gun parts out on work bench my kids lost my Reg valve Pin Assembly...ok no problem ordered whole new one $30. Cleaned and replaced 2 white and small black rings on ULE trigger. waited for parts and boom now leaks at trigger/rail. Spent hours reading forums taking apart recleaning redoing shims etc. vary sad.

    Quick recap
    Gun rips 100%
    Leak stops when hold trigger down
    Regulator Piston Assembly NEW $30
    Reg Valve Pin Assembly NEW $30
    ULE white and small black o-ring replaced ( new x-valve kit )

    Tried powertube shims 0-3... 4+ causes barrel leak
    Tried multiple L10 carriers - current one is as snug as it can be without bolt stick
    Tried ULE shims 0-3 ... 4+ and its to long and can fit in body

    Speant hours reading and cleaning and rearanging shims with no luck
    Anyone has a fix for this Please let me know...Thx !!!!
    If it doesnt leak when you hold the trigger back when gassed up you can rule out the on/off. Just because the orings are new doesnt mean they are always good. I would remove the white carrier oring and retune the L10 with a new oring. Make sure none are nicked up. make sure your fittings are not leaking by using soap and water. Check the body oring betwen the 2 halves of the valve. Let us know.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    9,241
    I wonder if this has to do with those pearly white crappy orings ?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    751
    The leak stopping when trigger is held back only rules out the two upper *and one middle* on/off o-rings, correct? It could still be the bottom on/off o-ring, especially if you’re hearing the leak at the trigger/rail and not in the feedneck or down the barrel.

    *Edit: This is incorrect; see my next post.*
    Last edited by nak81783; 09-19-2022 at 02:40 AM.
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  5. #5
    Yea Ive worked on this thing another hour...no luck with this phantom leak. I took off grips and its no way coming form anywhere else but the ULE.
    I also went to local ACE for little thicker o-rings cuz x-valve kit one comes with 1 pair and seemed thin ...but even with a nicer snug ring the leak is the same. Which seems to mean its coming from gap with pin and brass bottom ?? at same time everyone says since leak stops with trigger down it should be fine ?

    I so sick of working on this Ive tried just to buy a new ULE kit but its sold out/not available online ...2 of 3 leak points are brand new so might as well get the 3rd. some say if pin has been scratched or small bend it will do this and need a new one... Anyone have a new ULE for sale ?
    other forum posts about this is leak they've giving up and Im about there myself and just get a new gun

    Where can I buy a new ULE ... Thx again all
    Last edited by Grimmstone; 09-18-2022 at 11:43 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Don't know, I am lost.
    Posts
    3,143
    Do you have the stock on off. If so put it back and see what ya get. The ULE can be a pain sometimes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    751
    First, sorry, I misspoke in my first post. If there's no leak with the trigger held back, it only rules out the two upper o-rings on/off o-rings, not the middle or the bottom. ULE triggers can be finicky - especially the thin pin and tiny black middle o-ring. I've had two over the years and got rid of both of them. The ULE trigger has a lighter trigger pull, but it's much more likely to short stroke and have tuning or leaking issues like you're having.

    Second, as Beemer states, the stock on/off would be my suggestion. It has a little heavier pull, but it's much more reliable and less finicky. Start with a .750" length pin. With the age of your marker, the .750" should work just fine. Some of the newer valves/markers seem to need a little sanded off the bottom (non-head) side, which should only be done in about .003-.005" increments. Stop as soon as it works well; if you go too far, it'll create other problems.

  8. #8
    Seems like the exact same problem Iím having too. Good luck sir! Iíve had zero luck with mine either.

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