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Thread: Level 10 worth the Cost?

  1. #1

    Level 10 worth the Cost?

    So did a mech tournament the other day and my level 7 MiniMag was spitting paint everywhere. Will a level 10 bolt kit solve this problem, is it worth the price?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    2,741
    first i would say make sure your shooting thicker shell paint and that it is not super tiny.
    If you are using a twistlock barrel make sure your paint is not rolling down the barrel.

    If you are planning to upgrade your valve with a level 10 and have not recently replaced your reg piston do that at the same time. The older ones have a lower pressure setting for the blow off which is around the operating pressure of the level 10.

  3. #3
    Ordered the Lv10 Bolt, A piston and a Docs barrel adaptor. Paint choice wasn't really an option. Event paint only at all the tournaments here.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
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    3,067
    A properly setup L10 means that you will not chop paint at all.

    While knowing if your paint was breaking in the barrel because of roll outs, brittle paint, loader failures(the loader not keeping up with long strings) and the classic chop. A L10 will eliminate the chops, and will be gentler on paint, overall.

    As for tips, there are a couple of L10 setup guides, but start with the smallest carrier and go from there. Make sure you have air to test it, and after that, enjoy.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
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    offshore
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    8,514
    Never start with the smallest carrier. If you do that you will get bolt stick. Start with the carrier that is snug on the bolt...not too tight. Largest carrier that doesnt leak using the same oring each time.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
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    3,067
    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman View Post
    Never start with the smallest carrier. If you do that you will get bolt stick. Start with the carrier that is snug on the bolt...not too tight. Largest carrier that doesnt leak using the same oring each time.
    Yes. I knew that but didn't communicate that. Thanks for the save.

  7. #7
    Thanks guys. I should get the new bolt kit tonight. Thank you all for the advice. I doubt very much I was outshooting my virtue loader, I am not that fast. I feel the breaks were due to the cold brittle paint and the harsh level 7 bolt. Even when I switched over to my autococker I still had a couple of brakes. Only so much can be done when paint is sitting out below freezing for hours.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by bfoster7 View Post
    Thanks guys. I should get the new bolt kit tonight. Thank you all for the advice. I doubt very much I was outshooting my virtue loader, I am not that fast. I feel the breaks were due to the cold brittle paint and the harsh level 7 bolt. Even when I switched over to my autococker I still had a couple of brakes. Only so much can be done when paint is sitting out below freezing for hours.
    The level 7 can clip the next ball in the stack, especially if the paint is a bit small and sits lower in the breach. The level 10 will help with this since the bolt starts forward a bit slower.

    If it is not chops, but barrel breaks it could be a barrel that is too tight. If the paint is brittle due to cold or even just brittle shelled paint in general, use a large bore barrel. It will help prevent the bolt from fracturing the ball as it gets pushed forward into the barrel.

    The force of some hoppers is enough to fracture paint in the breach if it is brittle enough. Sometimes it will hold together and get shot cleanly if it doesn't take any more abuse. That's where a large bore barrel comes in. No friction or force pushing back against the bolt.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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