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Thread: BW Classic Valve Reg Cap

  1. #1
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    BW Classic Valve Reg Cap

    ​I have been working on this awhile and yes this is the other part that is planned to go with the rail i made.
    Thread milling kicked my butt but i figured it out. I ended up scraping the first one due to a funky tool path but this one came out great.







    Link to pics for those that can't see the above.
    https://imgur.com/a/4i4dPqK


    I did get some testing in last weekend when i was able to play with a friend in SoCal.

    Last edited by captian pinky; 02-21-2023 at 02:58 PM.

  2. #2
    So do you completely eliminate the regulator portion of the valve with this? Or is it still in there just not really doing anything?

    Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbo323 View Post
    So do you completely eliminate the regulator portion of the valve with this? Or is it still in there just not really doing anything?

    Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
    no regulator parts in the valve.

  4. #4
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    can't see any pics.

  5. #5
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    SideWinder on a Mag ,,, Beautiful

  6. #6
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    Man I'm really digging your tiny Mag, nice work with the design and machining!
    I saw the picture you took with your buddy noclue119 in San Diego where you're holding the marker and it puts it in perspective of how small it is, looks bad-ass.
    Are you going to machine the tip of the body off?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Man I'm really digging your tiny Mag, nice work with the design and machining!
    I saw the picture you took with your buddy noclue119 in San Diego where you're holding the marker and it puts it in perspective of how small it is, looks bad-ass.
    Are you going to machine the tip of the body off?
    Funny you mention that. I was thinking about that this weekend. I am on the fence about it since i know my hand will be up there. maybe i will cut a beater body first and then if i don't like it offer it up to someone else.
    Also thank you!

    Forgot i had not posted those pics yet. Added to first post.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    I am on the fence about it since i know my hand will be up there.
    Maybe leave it overhanging the rail 3/4" or so, just enough to sit on your finger, looks great either way.
    Bonus points for taking the time to 'clock' your logo properly before machining it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Maybe leave it overhanging the rail 3/4" or so, just enough to sit on your finger, looks great either way.
    Bonus points for taking the time to 'clock' your logo properly before machining it.
    I may do something more like the rpg exile body cut and leave a little shelf. We shall see though.
    Thank you.

  10. #10
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    Yea I think anything other than stock would finish it off..

  11. #11
    i second the idea of cutting the front of the body, flush as possible. wonder how a warp left body would look on this set up. also a short barrel would look great on this, like a stella or freak back. I always thought doing a freak with OD like an apex would look great on lots of automags.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker View Post
    i second the idea of cutting the front of the body, flush as possible. wonder how a warp left body would look on this set up. also a short barrel would look great on this, like a stella or freak back. I always thought doing a freak with OD like an apex would look great on lots of automags.
    I can check the warp body when i get home.

  13. #13
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    What pressure are you running the SW at?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    What pressure are you running the SW at?
    I want to say it is in the 550 range.

  15. #15
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    What on/off are you running?

    L10?

    How does it shot in comparison, the same would be my guess?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    What on/off are you running?
    L10?
    How does it shot in comparison, the same would be my guess?
    rt on/off and level 10.
    Shoots about the same as a classic with the same parts.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker View Post
    i second the idea of cutting the front of the body, flush as possible. wonder how a warp left body would look on this set up. also a short barrel would look great on this, like a stella or freak back. I always thought doing a freak with OD like an apex would look great on lots of automags.
    It is close, but not there. I am sure i could make one for warp bodies though.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    I want to say it is in the 550 range.
    I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
    None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..

  19. #19
    i have the same blue warp body. Luke you need to make a short stella tip that has the same OD as the apex. would look good on this.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
    None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..
    I will check tonight. I know the level 7 was lower than the level 10 but not really sure number wise where that fell.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
    None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..
    I had that same question about 16 months ago. Didn’t get any replies. I think it was athomas that had the numbers, but I haven’t been able to contact him.

    https://www.automags.org/forums/show...amber-Pressure

    For operating pressure, I was recently thinking about making a power tube tip/extension that I could hook a gage up to, but measuring it on a capped valve with external regulator works too.

    Not sure how to easily get residual pressure.
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  22. #22
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    Looks like about 530ish psi based.
    rt on/off, level 10, gold spring I was shooting about 285-290 fps when i was the field.




  23. #23
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    Interesting, thanks.
    Why do so many guys complain about the L10 in the classic, I've never messed with the setup myself?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    Looks like about 530ish psi based.
    rt on/off, level 10, gold spring I was shooting about 285-290 fps when i was the field.
    Any chance you could do the same with a Level 7, please? Thank you.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Interesting, thanks.
    Why do so many guys complain about the L10 in the classic, I've never messed with the setup myself?
    I think it is because they use the stock on/off. I find it is easier to short stroke.
    I also think there are a lot of people that don't fully understand how to install the level 10 in a classic valve.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nak81783 View Post
    Any chance you could do the same with a Level 7, please? Thank you.
    To be a viable test you would need to change to L7, use the same return spring, on/off, regulator, and match chrono readings as close as possible.
    I would guess not much if anything would change, but it would be interesting to see what happens.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    To be a viable test you would need to change to L7, use the same return spring, on/off, regulator, and match chrono readings as close as possible.
    I would guess not much if anything would change, but it would be interesting to see what happens.
    I thought I remember something about the reason the Level 10 has a higher operating pressure is, in part, because it’s leaking out the vent hole as it shoots to give that initial slower bolt speed. But yeah, that’s why I’m curious about the number to see if any of that is correct.

    Edit: Forgot to mention, it also starts with a smaller piston diameter on which the pressure acts, but it essentially has to overcome the same force (mass of bolt and spring compression). I think initial pressure would have to be higher for Level 10.
    Last edited by nak81783; 02-24-2023 at 11:22 AM.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    I think it is because they use the stock on/off. I find it is easier to short stroke.
    Yea the on/off really seems to be the sticking point, even with the RT on/off, though it's better than the rest.


    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    I also think there are a lot of people that don't fully understand how to install the level 10 in a classic valve.
    Do you mean how to install the L10 in general or is there something specific you need to do different with the Classic valve?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Do you mean how to install the L10 in general or is there something specific you need to do different with the Classic valve?
    I meant in general. It seems like some people just can't figure them out. Nothing specific to the classic valve.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by nak81783 View Post
    I thought I remember something about the reason the Level 10 has a higher operating pressure is, in part, because itís leaking out the vent hole as it shoots to give that initial slower bolt speed. But yeah, thatís why Iím curious about the number to see if any of that is correct.
    That's why Jake's setup is so interesting, it's testable without having to destroy a valve by installing a pressure gauge in the dump chamber. (As long as he's willing to play)

    TK has done all these tests already but all that info is buried deep here in the archives somewhere. I remember bits and pieces but nothing concrete sticks out.
    I think there's some work arounds outside the point of view of factory lifetime warranties and TK employing people to keep markers on the field, all on his dime.

    There's a lot of savvy players these days that dont get tripped up by tech, so there may be a worthwhile trade off using quad orings in the on/off and L10. They loosen things up nicely but will require more maintenance, I'm just not sure what the trade off is at this point. For me swapping orings once or twice a season might be worth it but that's not for everyone.

    At the least it would be worth testing, if Jake wants to test it in this build I'll send the orings over. I've started to test them myself and more to come, just haven't got any final results yet..

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