Does anybody have tips on emags?

[Shail]

I am getting a emag quite soon, as soon as it gets here, and was wondering if anybody has any tips or info on emags that might be useful to me.Such suggestions on tanks,drop forwards any add ons.
Thanks,

[Chupas2]

Blade Trigger. Warp. One magnet instead of 3 in the grip to lighten the trigger. J&J 2 piece barrel. 4500 68 ci flatline

[Scooter/Cootie]

Originally posted by Chupas2
Blade Trigger. Warp. One magnet instead of 3 in the grip to lighten the trigger. J&J 2 piece barrel. 4500 68 ci flatline

Ditto. Also look into getting a 12volt Revy or if you like 'em, the new Halos. You might also want to look into getting an adaptor for the charger that allows you to charge your battery from a wall socket. Currently, E-mags only come with car chargers.

Hope this helps.

[KamikazePenguin]

Originally posted by Chupas2
One magnet instead of 3 in the grip to lighten the trigger.

light triggers are overrated. Viva la resistance!

[SlipknotX556]

I cant wait till I get mine. I am gonna hopefully gonna order it friday from Modified paintball. I want to help don out so thats why I am ordering it from their and also he has the best prices around.

[Strider]

Hehe, it should be interesting at our field soon... Shail and I both recently got emags. Mine just came in and his will soon be...

Perhaps some tips regarding operation and tuning? (Trigger, RT reaction, cleaning & maintenance, etc)

[Kevmag]

The first time out with my E-Mag, I shot 1800 rds. Only played about 2/3rds of the day. It just rips.

[Strider]

Morning up!

[toymyster]

Your paint consumption will got thru the roof!!! These thing absolutely rock!!! Warp feed keeps it fed and happy, and do the bolt mod Tom asked us to do the research on!!! That's where you round of the nose of the bolt!!! Since I've done it I have not broke a single ball in almost 10 cases, and I have been shooting cheapest, most brittle paint paint I could buy!!!

[Shail]

thanks for the tips, keep them coming, and how did you modify the bolt toymyster, could you direct me to the post or send me the info.
thanks

[Strider]

Up for the day

[BTAutoMag]

well at least youre asking the right people some people ask for advice on other guns here too

[PsychoMag]

I think the number one thing to do, get comfortable with it first, then adjust the trigger to suit your liking, ie...shortness, removing magnets, etc..

I would look into a fast hopper (xrev's, ricochets, and new style halos) and/or warp.

You can check the tech forum for a good way to adjust your trigger pull, and try intellifeed.

[Shail]

up

[BradPalooza]

Alot of this is the same for regular Mags so if you already know it, forgive me.

I'd suggest using a quick disconnect on your valve if you use SS (I hate macro but that's up to you). That way you can remove your valve when you clean your gun after each day of play (you do clean it after each day right?) and lubricate your valve there.

Throw a couple of drops of oil in the QD connector before you play to lube the valve internals.

When adjusting velocity, adjust UP to the desired velocity. For example: You played outdoors Saturday with a 300 fps limit. Sunday, you play indoors so you gotta go to 275. Before gassing up, turn the velocity adjuster down. Gas up, chrono, and adjust up to 275.

If you get an aftermarket barrel and it won't go in, disassemble the marker and loosen the allen screw on the back of the barrel detent.

When disassembling the marker, make sure you remove the sear pin from the right side of the body rail before taking the mainbody off.

Use something to keep track of your yellow on/off key. I use a piece of twine and a clip to keep it attached to my barrel condom, some people attach it to their tank's nipple cover, others keep it attached to the grip or air line. It's up to you, just try not to loose it.

If you get a warp, ask AGD to send you a warp interlink cable, they're free.

If you disasseble the valve, you can use pretty much anything to lubricate the pressure piston spring. One of the techs said you could use Vasaline if you wanted to. It's just to keep the spring from rusting. I use synthetic bearing grease. The O-Rings REQUIRE the use of a good oil approved for paintgun use. I tried motor oil once on my Mag and it gummed up like you wouldn't believe.

I've run anywhere from 600 to 800 PSI input pressure and never really noticed much difference in the performance of the gun. Some people do, and have strong opinions on where it should be. The gun operates on ~400 PSI internally so you want a couple of hundred PSI higher going into it so the valve's regulator can function properly. Hence the 600 PSI low side.

The higher you go, the more reactive the trigger, but also the more velocity fluctuation you'll get between your first shot and the rest of the following shots in a string. Something you need to be aware of.

That's all I can think of.
I hope you enjoy your E-Mag, I absolutely love mine.
-Brad

[oldsoldier]

Hey...a little off topic...where did you get a blade trigger for the meag? I want one! Ok, back on topic....just get used to playing with it. And, if you get a warp, get used to that again. I find snapshooting with a warp a little easier, as I can keep the gun there, just move me back. Then, peek and shoot. No hopper to expose. But, play with it, have fun, and enjoy!!!

[BlackVCG]

First of all, here is the Tech Tip on rounding the tip of the bolt to reduce ball breakage.

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=32839

Here is the thread on the Blade Trigger for the E-Mag.

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=35903

The first things you'll need are a nitro system and a motorized hopper.

The only upgrades to really look into are barrels, the Warp Feed and a foamie bolt.

[Shail]

Thanks for the tips, keep them coming...

I already have warp, I used it on my 68 mag, so I am already pretty well used to it.

What will the foamie do?

And plan on buying a new nitro tank, probably a flatline, I wanted to get one for a while now anyways so having one for the emag is a even better reason to but one.

And I should probably get used to the original trigger first before getting a blade trigger, has a price been set yet for the triggers?

[Strider]

How about some tips regarding cleaning and oiling?

How often, how much? Which parts to watch?

[BlackVCG]

I only use KC Trouble Free Oil on the guns I work on, I would recommend that you do the same. What I do is put about 4 drops of oil in the QD before play, cycle it with the barrel off 50 times or so and then go and play. After I'm done, I'll usually take out the valve, wipe down the bolt, pull out the on/off pin, wipe it down reassemble and put 1-2 drops of oil in the QD and cycle it through. That's good enough for routine maintenance after each time I play.

Just keep the valve oiled by oiling before and after you play and the gun will work great for a long time.

[Jonno06]

yea,keep it well mantained.....

and DO NOT lose the yellow key,cause that would suck

[SlipknotX556]

I love my emag. Just got it yesterday. Get a better barrel and a very big harness your gonna need it!

[Strider]

Ok, on the topic of oil/lube...

I've been using A1 Autolube in my mag for quite some time now. It works great and the o-rings seem to love it.

I gave my emag a good cleaning the night before a game, and oiled it up pretty good. I rattled off about 100 afterwards to get it worked in. I then played the next day and went through about 700 balls, and about 1000 dry fire. (It's the new gun at the field, everyone wants to try!) By about the 600 mark on the counter I was noticing a slowdown in speed, and I couldn't get the 'sweet spot' in hybrid mode. I put some more oil in the bottom line, and everything was better.

I guess the question is, does the emag dry out quicker? Or am I going to have to start using a better oil... (No, I haven't tried Kermode Concepts
yet...) Has anyone had this kind of behaviour before?

Oh, and as for a lage pack... I still have my 8+2 from the old days. Nothing like carrying 1/2 a case!

[Strider]

Up!

[Blennidae]

This is nothing against Bradpalooza, but I have never heard of this:

"When adjusting velocity, adjust UP to the desired velocity. For example: You played outdoors Saturday with a 300 fps limit. Sunday, you play indoors so you gotta go to 275. Before gassing up, turn the velocity adjuster down. Gas up, chrono, and adjust up to 275."

Is there a reason for adjusting that way? Just curious.

[BlackVCG]

It's stated in all of the manuals and standard adjustment procedure to work up to the desired velocity. It's just easier to get to the desired velocity doing it that way.

[Strider]

Resurecting this thread to add.

Every so often, check your battery. Check the wires leading to the contacts for wear. Mine were rubbing against the sharp edge of the negative terminal, and eventually wore through.

Short circuits are BAD.

[manike]

Get LEVEL 10!!!

best upgrade to a mag since the C&C

Oh and then get the C&C body lol

manike

[Strider]

I wholeheartedly agree! (Have one now)

[Python14]

Pull the trigger really fast.