LED in Hyperframe

'Mag · 07-10-2002, 10:48 PM

I want to install an LED on the Hyperframe so that it will blink on every shot (like an Impulse). I think that I could just hook into the soleniod, so whenever the soleniod is actuated the light will blink. I don't think that I can get the soleniod wires out of the plug though. Since all of the wires are glued, or whatever, in the plug. Does any one know how to get just the last two wires out so I could add two more into the same spots? If that won't work then I think I'd have to make the connection in the middle of the wire going to the soleniod.

I want to know if this would cause any problems with getting enough power to actuate the sear? Like would adding the light into the wire going to the soleniod cause too much resistance? I don't really know anything about electronics, so if this would cause major problems then I'm not even going to attempt it. But if it should work then I'll probably do it, and then I'll have to adjust the service mode settings so that there's a little more power going to the soleniod.

**314159** · 07-11-2002, 09:07 AM

you could replace the diode that protects the fet or the bjt that switches on the solenoid. confused? well you are looking for a part, probaly a little black cylinder or block with a white stripe on one end. if you follow the paths on the board. one lead of the diode will go to one lead of the solenoid, and the other lead of the diode, will go to the other lead of the solenoid.

if you know a little about electronics, you may be wondering why this diode is installed so it is not have current flowing through it because it is not on? it is because when the solenoid turns off, it creates an electric pulse opisite of that it was charged with. and this is what the diode is in place to disipate.

once you find the diode, you can replace it with a led, just make shure of it's orientation (lead by flat side goes to same conection of the diode that has a stripe on it). the most beautiful thing about this is that, IT DOES NOT DRAW ANY MORE POWER FROM THR CIRCUIT.

'Mag · 07-11-2002, 10:56 AM

This sounds very good, but I don't really know anything about electronics at all. Do you think you could put up some pictures with a little bit of instructions to go with.

Also, would this make the light blink even if the soleniod is not pushing on anything? Because if I'm not mistaken the soleniod doesn't draw the same battery power when it doesn't actually push anything.

**314159** · 07-11-2002, 12:14 PM

Originally posted by 'Mag
This sounds very good, but I don't really know anything about electronics at all. Do you think you could put up some pictures with a little bit of instructions to go with.

i could if i had a hyperframe

Originally posted by 'Mag
Also, would this make the light blink even if the soleniod is not pushing on anything? Because if I'm not mistaken the soleniod doesn't draw the same battery power when it doesn't actually push anything.

the same amount of power goes through the solenoid, it is just a long piece of wire, wraped around a couple times, with a chunk of metal in the center of it.

the led will blink once after the solenoid kicks in, after every trigger pull

**314159** · 07-11-2002, 01:34 PM

i just rembered in one of my classes a while back when we were talking about coils.

someone asked how they know which way to put the diode in...

the teacher replied, the easy way is to just make shure you have 2 diodes on you, put one in across the coil, if it burns up, put the 2nd one in the opisite way.

mmm, smell of burning germanimum and silicoln.....

'Mag · 07-11-2002, 07:20 PM

If I put up a pic of the internals of a Hyperframe, could you show me waht's the diode and how I'd go about replacing it with an LED?

P.S. I don't think that the soleniod could be using as much power when it's not pushing anything, because in the last day I've pulled the trigger ~35,000 times. The battery is only supposed to last for ~15,000. Probably about 34,000 of the trigger pulls had nothing pushing against the soleniod. Maybe I'm just getting amazing battery life, lol.

**314159** · 07-11-2002, 07:23 PM

post a pic, and i will see what i can tell you.

and the solenoid takes the same amount of juice if it is pushing something or not, trust me.

'Mag · 07-11-2002, 07:34 PM

If you can't tell anything by that I'll try getting a pic up of my actual frame.

**314159** · 07-12-2002, 12:06 AM

a pic would be cool, or even a scan would probally come out nice.

**SIGSays** · 07-12-2002, 08:19 AM

i figured it out!! hook the discombobulation system to chamber to the base y axle... and then weld the nymphlydic nemphodes to the terminatewd base acid regulator... then add the psychadelic mobile vibrating unit to the pimped led and it should work...!

i have no idea what that means but when you figure it out please share... i wanna do it too.... i wanna hook up a phat blue led

**athomas** · 07-12-2002, 12:11 PM

Use the two black wires running to the solenoid. Find which is positive and which is negative. Connect the annode(+) of the LED to the positive wire. Connect the cathode(-) of the LED to a 350 ohm resistor. Connect the other end of the 350 ohm resistor to the negative wire of the solenoid.

This will light the LED each time the solenoid is turned on. The extra current draw is only 20mA This is almost nothing when compared to the Amps of current draw by the solenoid.

It should work fine. Have fun.

**314159** · 07-12-2002, 01:52 PM

yeah that works too.

you will probally need a different value of resistor because blue led's have a larger voltage drop than the average led. to put it bluntly, if you want a nice blue led, go to radioshack and ask for part #276-316 (brightest blue 5mm led they got)

take 9 volts, subtract out the forward voltage drop of the led (3.7v) and you have 5.3volts. this is the number that we will use to figure out the resistance needed to get the desired current of 20mA.

A=v/ohms or ohms =v/A.... so 5.3volts/.02Amps = 265 ohms. the closest vaule of resistor to this is 270 ohms. 5% carbon resistors are fine.

**rjvemt1** · 07-12-2002, 03:27 PM

search for a member named 'rudy' hes doing some mad stuff with hf's.

'Mag · 07-12-2002, 06:51 PM

OK, I'm good and confused now. Right now I have a LED Assembly Product No. 276-084 I don't think this will work because it's 680ohm resistance.

Anyways, if I go buy that blue LED, and then get the 270ohm resistor, how will I go about hooking it up? The way athomas explained it I'd end up with soleniod wires running to LED, then to nothing???? I think I need some better instructions. If you could possibly do some illistrations, too that would help a ton. I really don't even have any idea how to figure out which wires are positive and which are negative. This seems pretty tough, I probably won't even end up doing it, unless it becomes real clear to me sometime soon.

**314159** · 07-13-2002, 12:19 AM

(PLOS)----(+LED-)----(RESISTOR)-----(NLOS)

PLOS = positive lead of solenoid
NLOS = neagitive lead of solenoid

led, the negative side is the flat side (cathode)

this is the same way that the assembly is hooked up, just off of the top of my head, that is probally the 12v led lamp assembly

**314159** · 07-13-2002, 12:24 AM

well this way there is a current limiting resistor so if you make a wrong guess to which lead of the solenoid is the positive, and which lead is the negative. 50% chance of guessing right, if you guess wrong, nothing happens, the circuit is fine, and you just put it in the other way.

'Mag · 07-13-2002, 06:32 AM

My soleniod only has two black wires going to it. Both of these go dirctly to the board. If I connect an LED and resistor like you explained, it would create a loop that doesn't include the board (or battery, or microswitch). Maybe I'm just not understanding this, but I can't seem the find the diode either?

**314159** · 07-13-2002, 09:34 AM

the second idea for hooking it up is not reliant on the voltage generated when the field of the capacitor colapses. it used the power while the solenoid it on. the way that you are hooking it up is called a paralell circuit . the positive lead of the solenoid and the negative lead of the solenoid are each one of the black wires. or you can make the connections on the board itself (anyplace along the wire/circuitboard trace before you hit another component)

that 12v led assembly u have will light, but won't be as bright as it could be. why don't you try just holding/taping the wires of the led assembly to each of the solenoid wires (probally the best place is on the back of the circuit board where the female recepticle for the plug is). then try swaping the leads, observe what happens.

'Mag · 07-13-2002, 07:15 PM

I finally got my LED hooked up. I used the last method of setting up a paralel circuit. It wasn't too hard except there is very little room inside the frame for an LED. I just have a couple questions;

-Will this change the power going into the soleniod?
-How will this effect my battery life?

Here's a pic of my frame now:

**314159** · 07-13-2002, 10:33 PM

it will not affect the power going into the solenoid (short answer) it will not affect the power going into the solenoid by a noticible amount (shortened long answer)

this will add about 20mA to the total draw of the circut when the solenoid, this is a minor amount comared to the solenoid. just a guess, maby 5% shorter batt life, i wouldn't be worried about it.

**benji331** · 07-14-2002, 02:21 AM

Does it make that cool clicking noise the impulse makes?

'Mag · 07-14-2002, 07:17 AM

I'm not sure on this, but I think that the clicking noise has something to do with the soleniod. The Hyperframe's soleniod won't make any noise unless there is the sear pushing against it. So all I get is the click of the microswitch.

**314159** · 07-14-2002, 08:26 AM

you know, you could always go with that blue led

i am glad that i could have been some help to you.

'Mag · 07-14-2002, 04:41 PM

I could get a blue one, but then I'd have to take it all out, and put it all back in and buy a holder for the LED. And it's just not worth it. But thanks for the help.

Thread: LED in Hyperframe

Thread Tools

Display

LED in Hyperframe

Posting Permissions