Hey does anyone already own a Basic Stamp Developers station? More specifically, does anyone own one, know how to use it, and want to help me out a bit?
Hey does anyone already own a Basic Stamp Developers station? More specifically, does anyone own one, know how to use it, and want to help me out a bit?
hey i was looking into this for a while and I got so interested ima take an electronics couse in school. It shows how to make basic boards and what not. Has ne one actualy got a gun working with modes offf one of theese?
(by request, reset by Army)
i know what parts u need but not how to hook them up and program. i too was lead on by that wonderful article on warpig
Metal kids have more fun!!
Atleast wipers are good for something........target practice.
-=Proud 04 Shocker Owner=-
Yeah, Bill's article was great. Anyone know why he went with the Basic Stamp instead of like a PIC basic programmer?
PICs are a ton cheaper.
i dotnt know what programing lang doses the pic use. Th basic uses P-basic. ANd i herd its realy easy
I think they usually come with a C or assembler compiler, but I think you can buy a BASIC compiler too.
the pics use pic micro assembler ^_^.
you can get a pbasic (mimics the basic stamp instructions) or a c/c++ compiler. you need to know about the hardware to make good use of it, and the pic assembly is linked closley to the hardware, so i prefer just to use the assembler.
the basic stamps have pics on em, but the way they are set up limits you. i have some controll electronics using the pic line that i have been messing with for a couple paintball guns. the body of the code executes 5000 times a second (a lot faster than you could with a basic stamp).
As society and the problems that face it become more and more complex and machines become more and more intelligent, people will let machines make more of their decisions for them, simply because machine-made decisions will bring better results than man-made ones. Eventually a stage may be reached at which the decisions necessary to keep the system running will be so complex that human beings will be incapable of making them intelligently. At that stage the machines will be in effective control. People won't be able to just turn the machines off, because they will be so dependent on them that turning them off would amount to suicide
sometimes I just freaking hate people. which means the next day I will love them for the sake of balance, but right now I will just concentrate on the hating. Hate hate hate. Blaaaarg!
turborev - with ai like this, if it controlled any more than a paddle, it would kill you and everyone you care about.
Hmmm I've been looking into it just because I can either pick up a programmer through work for a LOT cheaper then a basic stamp. Just gotta learn how to dump a simple program into it! Any suggestions on a good book for starters? I know a bit of C++ and BASIC.Originally posted by 314159
you can get a pbasic (mimics the basic stamp instructions) or a c/c++ compiler. you need to know about the hardware to make good use of it, and the pic assembly is linked closley to the hardware, so i prefer just to use the assembler.
the basic stamps have pics on em, but the way they are set up limits you. i have some controll electronics using the pic line that i have been messing with for a couple paintball guns. the body of the code executes 5000 times a second (a lot faster than you could with a basic stamp).
Thanks! Now I just have to hope everything comes in within two weeks!Originally posted by 314159
http://www.parallaxinc.com/html_file...ed_stamps2.htm
Stamps are really only good for prototyping because of their rather big size and bad connectors. Now the PIC....You will definitely spend less money on a PIC setup, but there's more learning involved.
yeah I'll stick with the stamp for now I guess. I'm gonna see if I can buy some components on my companies account though. Nothing like quantity buys to drive prices down!
Suit yourself, but it'll be only harder on you in the end, when you have to make the transition.
Yah. Actually what I meant was figure out exactly my requirements on the stamp. Then go with the pic if I decide to mod other people's stuff.Originally posted by Gambit22
Suit yourself, but it'll be only harder on you in the end, when you have to make the transition.
Anyone know where you can find information on purchasing these?Originally posted by ShooterJM
I think they usually come with a C or assembler compiler, but I think you can buy a BASIC compiler too.
Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... - Blennidae
The only Hitech Lubricant
Umm try PICBasic. Talked to a guy at work who said there are some decent freeware ones though.Originally posted by hitech
Anyone know where you can find information on purchasing these?
Thanks. I found lots of stuff using a search.
you can get started programming pics for less than the cost of a basic stamp hehe.
i am on aim as "terminal err" if you need any advice about electronics.....
Might do that! I'm pretty interested in your dreamcast VMU project too!
Where can I find something like that? How do you download your code into the PIC? Thanks in advance.Originally posted by 314159
you can get started programming pics for less than the cost of a basic stamp
I've seen pic programmers on ebay for like $50. They usually have a seriel, parallel or USB port to jack into your computer. Write the code on the computer and send it to the programmer. I've seen some with modems too.Originally posted by hitech
Where can I find something like that? How do you download your code into the PIC? Thanks in advance.
EDIT: You can build em yourself too. I'm getting schematics from a buddy on how to build one.
http://www.olimex.com/dev/images/pic-pg1-sch.gif
this is a real fancy one that does not require any external power to program the pic. the cost of the parts for the programmer is under $5. some of the parts on the schematic are not the easiest to get. i have some substitutions that are all avalible from my favorite supplier digikey.
i will be online after work from 5-10 central time on aim as "terminal err" (my box is usually up 24x7).
Thanks guys. BTW, I don't know if anyone else is interested, but here is a complete PIC serial "programmer" for under $7.00 with a link to free software (thanks to 314159):
http://www.olimex.com/kits/pg001.html
they are on vacation for the month of august though =P
The Basic Stamp has advantages for fast, easy prototyping. In comparison to a PIC, you have to remember that a Basic Stamp is a complete computer, not just a single chip (the processor chip on a Stamp is a PIC). To utilize a PIC you will need to design and build a circuit board with the support circuitry needed to operate the PIC as well as the interface to your paintgun. Conversely with the Stamp, all of the support hardware is on the stamp already, and you can add interface components (a MOSFET to drive a solenoid, a tie down resistor for a trigger input, for example) right on the board.
Size comparison between the stamp and a PIC isn't realistic, because you'd need to compare the PIC's size to the processor on the stamp (the PIC still needs to have a board and support hardware to be useable). DIP mounted PICs (like the one to use with the programmer linked in this thread) are larger than the SMT PIC processor on the Basic Stamp. Most PIC based paintgun driver boards using DIP packaged PICs, like the one in the Matrix, are in fact larger than a Basic Stamp set up for dual solenoid control of a paintgun. Similarly, the BS-1D Basic Stamp uses a DIP PIC and is larger than the BS-1IC Basic Stamp that I covered in my article on WARPIG (DIP/SMT are just styles of chip shapes, the DIP chips are bigger with pins to go into a socket, and SMT have tiny pins that solder down to the circuit board).
The drawback to the Stamp is that it's not ideal for production, largely due to the cost (about $30 per stamp). But also you can make a more efficient circuit tailored to your application, rather than the stamp which is built to be multi-purpose. However, if you're doing something that's one-off, or concentrating on getting the hardware side of something working, the speed of set-up, ease of programming (PBASIC is quite a robust language, with a lot of built in functions for signal generation, communicating with an LCD, etc.) of the Stamp give it a lot of advantages.
Since the Basic Stamp has programming I/O circuitry on the stamp, it doesn't need a programmer, you just need to connect it to the parallel port on a PC (You just need a DB25 connector to plug into the PC, some wire, and the connector style of your choice to plug to the stamp, I've even used aligator clips, to clip the programmer to the stamp so as to not have a plug on the board).
The PBasic compiler software that you need for programming is a free download from Parallax (www.parallax.com). The Basic Stamp manuals are free downloads as well in PDF format. I opted to buy a starter kit with a prototyping board (the boards sell for $15 seperately), the manual, a stamp, and a cable for $90. The ease of a printed manual, and knowing I had a proper cable, and an easy proto-board to work with definitely saved me time in learning. When I decided I wanted to do an LCD board for my Rainmaker, I spent an afternoon researching microcontrollers (PIC, Basic Stamp, etc.) online (I'd never worked with them before), an afternoon programming the Stamp to flash LEDs on the prototype board, then to drive a serial LCD, and another afternoon putting it into my Rainmaker. I suspect if I hadn't gone with the kit, there would have been another afternoon tied into all that. Anyhow, the point to that is it's really quite easy to work with.
Good luck with your project, whichever processor you choose. If you go the Basic Stamp route, and have any questions, feel free to ask here, or in the Tech Misc forum on WARPIG.
See you on the field,
-Bill Mills
Last edited by billmi; 08-29-2002 at 09:54 AM.
Computer / Paintball geek
Technical Editor, World And Regional Paintball Information Guide - http://www.WARPIG.com
Producer, Paintball Television - http://www.PigTV.net
Paintball, Motocross trail riding, SCUBA, climbing, surfing, R/C aircraft, fun stuff...
Thanks for the insight Bill! Was kind of curious about it. Actually, because I'm impatient I'm going with the basic stamp right now. Was delivered yesterday along with the programming cable. Just downloaded the software.
Quick update on my project: Grip frame is now milled out, solenoid is here and all the other electronic parts are as well.
Trying to currently bore a hole in a sear. Not an easy task Going with a cobalt bit this weekend.
The PIC16F84 requires only one external component: the crystal. And its size is significantly smaller than the Stamp. Sorry, but if you've the know how, PICs are much easier to work with than Stamps. Both size and cost wise.
Let me know how it goes. I have been planning on doing a similar project. I'm curious, what grip frame are you using? How much trouble was it to mount the hardware? How are you connecting the solenoid to the sear? BTW, if you need help with the programming, I can probably help. I've never used PBasic but I do write programs for a living and have used many other languages, so PBasic shouldn't be a problem. Thanks.Originally posted by ShooterJM
Quick update on my project: Grip frame is now milled out, solenoid is here and all the other electronic parts are as well.
Trying to currently bore a hole in a sear. Not an easy task Going with a cobalt bit this weekend.
Not an easy task at all. Most sears are steel at tool hardness or harder, making them quite difficult to drill or cut. You might consider making a new sear, and then hardening it once you are done.Originally posted by ShooterJM
Trying to currently bore a hole in a sear. Not an easy task Going with a cobalt bit this weekend.
See you on the field,
-Bill Mills
Yeah. I wanted to avoid that if at all possible. Still pretty green when it comes to metal work. If these bits don't work I'll consider that. Called a machinest and it'd cost almost as much to EDM the sear then to have a few made.Originally posted by billmi
Not an easy task at all. Most sears are steel at tool hardness or harder, making them quite difficult to drill or cut. You might consider making a new sear, and then hardening it once you are done.
See you on the field,
-Bill Mills