It didn't come out as straight as I had hoped. I think I hit the limit on my cheap drill press.
I was making some ends for my jeweling setup and had a thought. I wanted an RT on/off for a parts mag I was upgrading. I had a left over RT 0.750 on/off pin from my pneumag experiments, a nibbled oring from the on/off in my maxflo inline reg, and a left over classic on/off. I thought I would try to put the RT pin in the classic on/off, since that is where the benefit from the Rt is anyway. I decided to make a brass insert for the classic on/off, kind of like a fiber optic connector setup.
After mounting the old classic on/off the best I could, a .120 bit would float through the on/off without any noticeable rubbing or deflection. I drilled out the body to .125, which turned out very easy.
I cut a "long" piece of .125 brass rod and after cleaning the cutting fluid off the on/off and sanding the finish on the brass, I used the overnight version of JB weld to mount it in the body. That let me clean up the overfill and use the left overs on other stuff.
After letting it set, I drilled "a little more" than 1/16 of an inch into the body with a #5 bit (0.205 diameter) to make a pocket for the RT oring (the pocket has a coned bottom)
I followed that with a bit for the pin (drill index was 0.076, but I need to check the number).
I then took the assembly out and used a razor saw to cut the end of the brass that was sticking out and sanded the end down on a flat surface (kitchen counter
)
I was making some ends for my jeweling setup and had a thought. I wanted an RT on/off for a parts mag I was upgrading. I had a left over RT 0.750 on/off pin from my pneumag experiments, a nibbled oring from the on/off in my maxflo inline reg, and a left over classic on/off. I thought I would try to put the RT pin in the classic on/off, since that is where the benefit from the Rt is anyway. I decided to make a brass insert for the classic on/off, kind of like a fiber optic connector setup.
After mounting the old classic on/off the best I could, a .120 bit would float through the on/off without any noticeable rubbing or deflection. I drilled out the body to .125, which turned out very easy.
I cut a "long" piece of .125 brass rod and after cleaning the cutting fluid off the on/off and sanding the finish on the brass, I used the overnight version of JB weld to mount it in the body. That let me clean up the overfill and use the left overs on other stuff.
After letting it set, I drilled "a little more" than 1/16 of an inch into the body with a #5 bit (0.205 diameter) to make a pocket for the RT oring (the pocket has a coned bottom)
I followed that with a bit for the pin (drill index was 0.076, but I need to check the number).
I then took the assembly out and used a razor saw to cut the end of the brass that was sticking out and sanded the end down on a flat surface (kitchen counter
)


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