I'm pretty sure my toolset has that torx driver, if not, I dont' mind a quick trip to Sears hardware.
Introducing the Micromag 2009
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I know that when it comes to tools anything "special" can be a pain in the neck. If you need an Allen key at a field you'll have 50 people ready to hand you one...Originally posted by zondoI'm fine with it... my T2 came with a Torx driver
We'll go ahead and broach the sear axle for an 1/8" Allen because there are no issues with stripping it.
As far as the front block screws go, the concern is that they need to be torqued down pretty tight and we really don't want to take the chance of them stripping - ever.
If anyone wants to replace the front block screws with Allens that could also be done. Screw length varies slightly by manufacturer and ours are a hair over spec which led us down this path of grind-or-build to begin with. After a re-think we realized that Torx would be a better option regardless for the front block screws.
We still get MicroMags back through the door that are close to 15 years old, and figure that 15 years down the road you'll be glad you haven't had to deal with drilling out stripped screws - way tougher getting good leverage with the drill press from your walker...
So 1/8" Allen on the sear axle, T-15 Torx for the front block. Maybe someone even has a combo tool, or not...Comment
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Besides the front breach. The whole marker is still being held together by 2 screws. 1 if you want to call the field strip a screw...which it actually is depending how you look at it
It won't cost much if anything to replace them if that's what you want to do. $3 if that.Last edited by Ando; 09-01-2010, 09:16 AM.Comment
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like most projects ehre its dragged on far longer than expected, im not gonna nitpick i just want it now.Originally posted by going_homeBad idea.
Gotta carry a special tool for this ?
Bad idea.
//echo//


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could they have maybe used the blue loctite crap? i know on some cars when doing the breaks, to get the rotors or drums off you have to use one of those big vibration screw drivers and most time the factory puts some loctite and i think most mechanics do too.Comment
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On some parts perhaps, but blue is not hard to break loose.Originally posted by C_losjokercould they have maybe used the blue loctite crap? i know on some cars when doing the breaks, to get the rotors or drums off you have to use one of those big vibration screw drivers and most time the factory puts some loctite and i think most mechanics do too.Comment
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The problem with the front block screws is the head of the screw is .09 tall so max depth of an 1/8 allen or torx is only .075 with about .010-.015 taken up by the leadin champer .
I would prefer to have all the surface area i can get to assure that the screws dont strip out .
Im going to make a bunch of extra screws because you will not find these screws in any hardware store or pretty much anywhere on the planet that i know of . The screws had to be made because of the space constraints and is a 10-24 x .275 with a .240x.09 head .
Luke , the screws on a harley are subjected to heat cycling and will always be a problem unless an anti seize assembly lube is used .
You might have vibration lock on the mm09 but no heat cycling .
BTW: This screw was designed for the front hand guard rail system for m4 rifles and started out as a 1/8 allen and the customer requested a torx head after the first batch of hand guard we produced because they were stripping the heads out during assembly . Its been 3 years and no more complaints .
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Tracy's going to kill you because of what sounds like another thing to organize an order for before bodys ship- Unless we're planning to send a spare along when things go out.Originally posted by ZoomZ@PTPIm going to make a bunch of extra screws because you will not find these screws in any hardware store or pretty much anywhere on the planet that i know of . The screws had to be made because of the space constraints and is a 10-24 x .275 with a .240x.09 head .Comment
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a quality set of torx screwdrivers is KEY to removing/installing torx screws. Also, even if it IS blue loctighted in, it still needs to be heated up in order to de-solidify the loc-tight. even the smallest amount of heat IE: a lighter will suffice. i use loc-tight on ALL of my guns, and have never had a stripped screw or a problem. The CCM T2 is an excellent example. I loc-tight everything pretty much, and CCM loc-tights some screws from the factory.Comment
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