thanks man, I will be sure to try that and tell ya how it worked out.
thanks man, I will be sure to try that and tell ya how it worked out.
Different? I broke fragile paints, till I installed the spacer with one dot and three shims with the longest spring. I also put a big rechargable batter pack on the back of the warp feed so it spins like an 80cc dirtbike. It is very sensitive to velocity adjustment but the lvl 10 kicks in if a blade of grass is in the way. Best of all it doesnt break paint even when I hit 17bps with hellfire paint. Life is good.......
So, I just got a new X-Valve, well used. When I gas it up, it doesn't leak down the barrel and it seems to shoot fine... Do you think I should go up one carrier to see if it leaks, or just leave it alone? I have been getting a little bolt stick, especially when I do an RT Chrono. If I don't let the trigger reset after a shot, the bolt will stick.
I went like this
He went like this then like this then like this
Now he shoots a Mag too...
-JR
Do you have a level 10 bolt upgrade. If you don't have it yet you may want to get it. And maybe you should oil it, or maybe you should come down here and get fixed.
yup you are getting bolt stick. First try lubing your bolt stem with a good amount of oil. It is the bolt stem and the carrier oring which is causing the bolt to stick. If that doesnt work go up a carrier size and see how that works. and again make sure everything is well oiled.Originally Posted by JRingold
well it isnt really a complaint but a question o.k. here it is does the lvl. 10 kit work with the pro-team micromag? thank you
undefinedIF YOU RUN YOU'LL ONLY DIE TIRED
it will work just fineOriginally Posted by SuiCide6
Thany Uoi Very Much You Just Sealed The Deal
OK on sunday i went to the field to play with my emag and see how my lvl 10 was workin and when i first shot it was at like 340 so i get it down as far as i can which is only like 286 for 1 shot i could only get it to work at like 293 to 303 this is to high and it was much to high for the field i was at being indoor i had to go down to 270 and i didnt know how i could. now for future reference i would like to know and also how can i lower the velo. but still have my mag shoot fine. also i have a brand new mag and lvl 10 i have the red spring in i think it is medium resistance and i have 3 shims in and i believe i have the 2.5 carrier in.Thx
"Life Is A Garden Dig It" Joe Dirt
Black powerfeed Emag 1.37 w/ warp and ev2
lookin for emag ups u got em i want em
98% of american teenagers have tried pot. if you are part of the 2% that hasnt, put this in your signature.
My emag shootin with crap paint and old ev2
I'm assuming that it's bolt stick, the sear and trigger won't reset. I sold my tank and just got a new one (not filled) so I haven't been able to determine which position the bolt is in when it happens. I will try the next largest carrier with the current o-ring and see if I have any issues... Thanks!Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
hey my gun is leaking down the barrel and when i shoot it goes full auto
PLEASE HELP MY MARKER
Last edited by amagrtpro; 01-20-2005 at 07:07 PM.
first gas the marker up.. when it goes full auto, just hold the trigger... it should stop in about 5 or less seconds... then it should shoot normally, but might still leak... if it does still leak then go down a half carrier.... when you put things back together you might have to let your gun full auto for a sec to let everything "set in"/
pace-
kyro
okay I know you guys might get bored of answering questions... but i have one.
today during ao day. Everything started off great. The lvl 10 was nicely tuned, no chuffing, no nothing.
Middle of the day. the valve/bolt starts leaking. So I thought it would go away after a few shots.. doesn't. So I thought it was low on gas... wasn't that (even though fills were only going up to 2k). So then I thought, I had to regas it up. Still leaks.
After that I decided to open it up and remove a shim. Still leaks. So then I went down a carrier size (notice I am at 1 groove and I dont have my .5 because someone else is using it, kinda small) leaks stop, bolt is strong though. So I put in a shim. For some reason I just wanted to hit the field and decided that the halo should keep up. 1 round later while waiting I hear a leak. Now this is a pretty small carrier right now. So I go down to the last size, no markings at all. Same thing happens, after 1 round I start to hear a small leak. So with the bad air and the frustration. I got a fill and decided that the o-ring just wasn't doing it. So I got a new one and started at 2 grooves 1 dot (2.5) no shims. Leaks. Go down to 2 grooves. Leaks. Then I go down to 1 groove 1 dot (1.5) leaks. Then I go down to 1 groove, no leaks. okay, seems fine. Hit the field 1 game I start to hear that pesky little leak. Now I think to myself. I shouldn't be using that small of a carrier. The end of the day nears and I decided to try it with another o-ring. Same results.
If anyone can help me, please let me know. thanks.
hey could you guys explain to me all this stuff about shims and carriers?
my gun wont shoot, when I pull the trigger, the gun just releases are for about a second
i just found out my e-mag has a lvl 10 in it but i dont have a clue how to work on them..lol but this is the problem my balls still chop even though i have the lvl 10 in it is there somthing i should do like lube it or tune it or somthing that can stop it from chopping please tell me!!
thanks AGD
RT M4G: If your mag still chops, then use a stiffer bolt spring. This will reduce the available force on the ball.
10-brink: Increase the velocity setting until the gun fires consistently. If the velocity setting is too high when the gun fires properly, then you will need to use a smaller bolt spring and adjust the velocity down to a usable level.
indulgence: Remove all shims from your powertube when troubleshooting leaks. They don't do much anyway. Now you can use the largest carrier that does not leak. It should fit the bolt stem snugly but not tight enough that it won't slide easily. If the bolt stem is snug (not tight) and it still leaks even after you change the o-ring, then check your sear tip for wear. If the sear tip is worn, you will need to replace the sear.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
I was wondering what the level 10 shims do??? Like what can i expect from adding and/or take out shims?? I read meny posts but i havent been able to find anything.
There is potentially an area of travel where the bolt can move forward past the sear tip, stop on an obstruction, but not allow the bolt stem vent hole to be past the carrier o-ring. If this occurs the bolt will stick and not reset because the chamber pressure will hold the bolt against the obstruction. By adding shims, you push the carrier o-ring towards the back of the bolt stem and make that area shorter. Ideally, any forward movement of the bolt will expose the vent hole so that any obstruction will cause the chamber pressure to be released and the bolt spring will return the bolt to its starting postition. Realistically, most obstructions that stop the bolt allow enough forward movement to vent anyway, even without shims.
My level 10 gets stuck slightly forward sometimes. It will leak VERY slightly, when I shoot it will often return the bolt all the way. No problem in performance. More of an annoyance.
try puting oil in you asa befor you gas up.
www.redvsblue.com
dyNASTY
Does it matter what kind of oil? Like oil I would use on my old spyder?
as long as it's paintball oil and not rifle or motor oil you're fine. Something like PMI paintball oil or gold cup works well. Treat your gun like a car and change the oil every 3000 shots or less.
Ok, so I got my level 10 kit today. I started to put it together and started it out with the 1.5 carrier (1 groove, 1 dot). Well that one leaked like crazy. I shot it a few hundred times to wear in the o-ring. After that I brought it down a carrier size (1, 1 groove). Well that still leaked a tiny tiny tiny bit, so I put in the next smallest one (.5, 1 dot). Well that one did not leak, but I can't shoot the gun. The trigger will still stay loose. What is the problem?
Me and my buddy both bought the x-valve with he lvl10 upgrades. After installing the lvl10 on my Automag it worked perfectly. I tried to install it on my buddy's minimag and i cant even get the xvalve to work without the lvl10. all it does is leak down the barrel. Ive tried new o-rings everywhere in the power tube, ive tried the carriers, I just cant seem to find a combo that will make anything work. Any help would be greatly appreciated, You can email me at [email protected].
Crobial: Have you installed the new sear that came with the x-valve. The old sear may be worn, allowing the bolt to sit too far forward. This will cause leaking in both the level 10 and level 7 bolts. Make sure you remove all shims from the level 10 setup when it is installed. Use the shortest powertube spacer on the level 7 setup.
jacobeid: You are getting bolt stick which means the carrier is too tight. Use the size 1 carrier. Remove all shims from the setup.
Aight so i just install the level 10 with the #1 carrier and no shimms?
need some help. when i hold back my trigger i can hear a leak in the bolt area. also my bolt sticks every dozen or so shots.
Hi,
installed my lvl10 on my micromag and everything seems to be working ok except the velovity does not go past 240-250, any higher and it vents down the back, how can i increase the safety valve pressure? also the only spring that worked was the original spring and all the o rings whre to big, even on the smalles carrier, was lucky to get a oring from a friend from his normal mag spares, am here in south africa and getting stuff is impossible, any way to block the back valve?
thx
tom
If the vavle vents out the back, then you need a new regulator piston assembly.
Problem: Velocity is a little jumpy and MY LX is too hard on paintball. I will chop a ball every pod or so.
Using
-2shims with 1.0carrier and Short Spring At 250-265velocity.
-Scepter Kit
-Flatine 68/4500 at about 850psi
-Xmag
-Warp
Help anyone?