I am trying to chrono at 280 fps. Is that to low for the medium spring?Originally Posted by athomas
I am trying to chrono at 280 fps. Is that to low for the medium spring?Originally Posted by athomas
Each persons setup will be different. Generally, most people use the middle spring.Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
If you want to know the ideal setup for operation at 280fps, turn the velocity down until the gun won't shoot at all. Then turn the velocity adjuster up until it fires. Check the velocity. If the velocity is 250 - 270, then operating the gun at 280 is ideal. If the velocity is below 250 then you may want to consider using a longer spring. If the velocity is above 270, then you may want to use the next shorter spring. These numbers are for reference only. You may want to run your gun closer to the "edge" to get the bolt impact as soft as possible (ie; gun starts to work at 275 fps when you are shooting at 280fps). This will cause the odd chuff if the valve isn't fully charged when the next shot is fired under rapid fire conditions or if any debris interfers with the bolt operation.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
I installed the level ten on my classic 68 with e grip. The marker would not fire after repeated tuning. Finally figured out that the solenoid/piston in the e grip was not able to activate the switch. The marker/level ten works great with the stock grip and trigger assy on it. Any possible solutions to make the egrip work?
Did the egrip come with an on-off assembly? The standard on-off from the classic valve requires a lot of force to activate, especially with the level 10. You need a special on-off assembly. A retro valve on-off assembly will cut the required force in half without any special tuning and should work in place of the stock one quite nicely.
Thanks for the Info. I did have a different switch in the marker when I first installed the Lvl 10. It has a smaller diameter on/off pin and an on/off top that lets more air through than the original. Unfortunately the marker would not fire with this switch installed either.I recently re-oringed everything and did not have one of the orings for the other switch, so I put the original back in. I will try it again if I can get an oring for it. The oring that I need seals the on/off pin to the on/off bottom. Any idea where one ia available? ThanksOriginally Posted by athomas
Last edited by asower; 10-27-2005 at 12:19 PM.
I check the AGD online store. The retro on/off that is pictured does not look like the on/off that I have. The pin looks the same but the top and bottom are different. I dont think that the orings pictured will work either. Do you think it would be my best bet to buy the whole assembly?Originally Posted by asower
ok, Having a slight issue with mine.
It seems a little . . . . ah, rough. It hasn't chopped one, but it pinched it. Its been so long since I had installed (when they first came out) that I don't remember how to fix it or make it more sensitive.
Little help?
EDIT - one other thing. When I unscrew the air, pulling the trigger as I twist, it sounds like air is escaping down the bolt/barrel.
Last edited by slateman; 10-30-2005 at 03:47 PM.
BrockSampson "I see dead people..."
and once I see them, I make sweet, sweet love...
hello everyone,
i'm having a problem with my automag. i installed the lvl 10 this year and i have been using it with no problems. the only problem that i have is that i can get it no where near 300fps, i could only get it to 260-270 before it start leaking through the back. any suggestions where i can begin??
Which bolt spring are you using ? Use either the middle or the longest one.And you should get the 280 fps you need.
Pinching is what it does. It should reset though. If it doesn't then you may need to add a shim or two. If the spring is old and/or worn, it may need to be replaced. The springs do need to be replaced over time.Originally Posted by slateman
If you need to make the bolt force softer on paint, then use a stiffer/longer spring.
The valves will hold air after you remove the air source. That is normal.
You need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.Originally Posted by MAGnificents
I just openend my RT-pro and found myself looking at the valve without the brass tip on the bolt side of it. I found it in the level 10 bolt. I think it broke off during a game, I had some drop off the last game so I was looking for the problem but this ain't good and easy to fix. The tip broke at the place where the O-ring grove is. How can I get it out and more importent where (I live in the Netherlands) and how do I get a new one? Has anybody else had this problem?
EDIT:
Just got the broken off tip out off the valve (it was so loose in the valve that I could just turn it out with the pliers tip from my Leatherman)
Last edited by Redmer; 11-01-2005 at 11:31 AM.
Help....how do i get the o ring carrier out of my powertube to change the carrier size....it's stuck...any ideas that wont hurt anything?
Last edited by neppo1345; 11-01-2005 at 02:35 PM.
Use the field strip screw. Stick it down the powertube and when you remove it with a bit of sideways pressure, the carrier and oring will come with it.Originally Posted by neppo1345
athomas, i just removed the whole lvl 10, so everything is back to factory ,went to the chrono and was able to get to 300 with no problems. would you still suggest in getting a new piston assembly either way, i really want to get this lvl 10 working.Originally Posted by athomas
The level 10 requires a higher operating pressure than the level 7, which causes the regulator piston assembly to vent out the back.
Regulator Piston Assembly Part Number: 000684-10 : athomas, is this the one I need, if not where can I find the one your talking about.Originally Posted by athomas
http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...o&productID=30
Yes, that is the regulator piston assembly.
Some how the center shaft off of my lvl 10 bolt came out and was lost, its the part that would go inside the different size carriers. I don't know how it came out, I thought it was one piece. Is this repairable or do I have to buy a new bolt. Thanks
Some ghost come from the afterlife, some send you there.
Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon 2
i have a hyperframe on my mag and the level 10 doesnt seem to keep up. if i shoot slow everything works fine, when i walk it slow it works fine, but as soon as a realy start to get on the trigger it starts chuffing, double feeding and breaking paint. i know i have the short spring in there, but not sure what carrier or the amount of shims. how can i get my level 10 to keep up?
when i rapid fire on my x-valve, the level 10 doesn't always stop a chop. would adding another shim or two solve this? there are only two in it right now, and i dont have any more to expirament with.
upgrade fund: $145
The bolt stem is a separate piece in the level 10 bolt. It is press fit in. On some rare occasions, it does come out. It should be covered under warrantee. Get a hold of AGD. They may have an answer for you on this one.Originally Posted by CJ55
Shims do not affect the ability to chop or not. They only affect how far the bolt has to move before it can be reset after a stopage.Originally Posted by wanna-b-ballin'
If you are having chopping issues, use a stiffer bolt spring.
I can't seem to get my level 10 tuned right. My rt came factory tuned with the shortest spring in, 2 shims, and the smallest carrier. I first tried switching out for the next largest carrier, but it leaked. I then tried putting in the middle spring. Chrono'd at 280, the bolt doesn't seem to fully recock and the trigger does not get resut unless I hold the trigger down a couple seconds or push the bolt back with my finger. With the lightest spring I still get chops, but I can barely shoot with the middle one. Should I take wire cutters and cut a little off of the middle spring?
I'm having a slight problem. I got my level 10 working great except for one thing. When I put my finger into the barrel, and try to fire 4 out of 5 times it will stop, then reset itself, which is good. But 1 out of 5 times it will hit my finger and stop, and continure leaking air until I reset it with my figure. What do I do?
1.0 Carrier
2 shims
Largest Spring.
You are definately getting bolt stick. Try using the next larger carrier, but take the shims out when you put it in. If it still leaks try a different oring in the carrier and go through the tuning process from scratch (again, without shims).Originally Posted by pachytriton
Sounds like bolt stick. If there was no leaking I would say its not enough shims, but the leaking through the vent hole would indicate a carrier that was too tight.Originally Posted by areoreo37
Do you have a ULT? If so, it is also possible that the ULT tuning could cause your problem.
Hi
I need too set my X-Mag at shoting 230 FPS for indoor play and reball, not only that , its a small field.
What spring is best too use at this, right now i can shoot eggs with my gun, but at reball it dossent work well, so im thinking it can be as hard it wants on the ball but as low fps as i can get.
What spring will hit the ball hardest?
Any suggestions?
Thx
Kent
NYX #145
The short gold spring works best for low velocity settings. It is also the hardest on paint. At low velocity settings it won't be as hard on paint due to the lower chamber pressures.
Thx for replay, i changed the spring too the gold one, and got it down too 230-240 fps and shoting just fine.
Thx for helping
Kent