That things look like something that has been much needed in the sport. Glad to see you Working your Magic and cant wait to get my hands on one.
That things look like something that has been much needed in the sport. Glad to see you Working your Magic and cant wait to get my hands on one.
Only dealers that smell like fish!!
Yes, I will take care of the dealers but it has to wait until the 2nd run when the prices come down with volume and I can give you something. I am only doing 100 in the first batch to verify the design.
AGD
I have a Salmon in my freezer does that work too?
Great job,Tom! It's good to hear the voice of innovation again!
Registered User
WOOT
I really hope I can be in the first100
Great looking little widgit! Definitely a rabbit.
Mr. Kaye
I noticed your using a chain from the motor to the compressor. Did you try using a belt (like you would find on a car) to drive it? Might cut down on the noise lvl even more but then again you'd have to get belts specially made for it. Just a thought.
Ando,
I had to use the chain to keep the cost down. I wanted to use a timing belt but it would have added about 75 bucks to the cost believe it or not.
AGD
What is the black line going to the compressor?
^^^ 80 PSI input
I'm glad i got to see inside it, it works much like i thought it did. It's now one of my favorites, and i've subscribed in case anything else gets posted.
Understandable and probably for the best. There would be some irate significant others looking for their good pantyhose's if the belt ever broke.Originally Posted by AGD
Glad to hear you're keeping us euro-types in mind. Should I re-add John & Jackie to my speeddial?Originally Posted by AGD
Looks great, I'm certainly interested in getting a 3000psi model for home tinkering.
Sounds fair Tom.Originally Posted by AGD
Since there will be only 100 made first run, can you please let us know how you will proceed to select them?
I am glad I was here to see this happen...great work...and his first Youtube video was a doozy.
Originally Posted by maniacmechanic
No, I know the large one on top is 80 psi, but the black one on the left hand side is what I'm referring to. It looks like a high pressure line of some sort...
The black hose on the left is shrink tube on a braided stainless hose. Its all sticking out because I have quick disconnects on it so I can splice in a gauge when I need to see the pressure out of that piston. The production unit will have a steel tube like the one below the braided.
AO members are going to get first shot at the first batch so HANG OUT HERE!!
AGD
Happy days for us!Originally Posted by AGD
Is there going to be some sort of dump valve / bleed device for disconnecting the tank included with this?
YES! (glad you asked because it took some effort to design it in)
The degas knob is directly above the output port in the pictures. You screw it in to degass the line.
AGD
Awesome Tom!
I will buy one to show my support!
Are you considering stepping back into the paintball marker business for good?
The marker business is pretty tough right now. I am talking with different people since things are in such upheaval. Can't tell what the future holds.
AGD
That sounds like a maybe to me. Well if you do come back i'd be glad to see you back, and i have a feeling that if you came out with a new marker it would be the next one i buy since i'm probably done for a while what with trying to get a prototype made for my design.Originally Posted by AGD
Market is tough but you do have a strong core of fans who trust you and will consider changing their equipment.Originally Posted by AGD
Personally I love my automag xvalve and the only thingI would work on would be efficiency. I am not sure how it is doable but it would be a niche-market imo.
You really get an idea of just how small it is when you see that picture.
Wow
Awesome! This is looking great. Love the stylish pose TomOriginally Posted by AGD
Tom, just joined up yesterday due to the compressor info posted on Talon Airguns Group.
I am curious about the suction and discharge checks for each stage. Are they user serviceable or are replacements available? How about the piston rings?
I may have need of one of these compressors as a backup to my Walter Kidde compressor.
So is the pressure determined by the pressure cutout arrangment? by spring selection or placement on the guide? For most uses 3,000psi would be fine but occasional 4500 would be needed. For airgunning the 3,000 works but for filling my 68/4500 is requiired.
Cheers,
keep up the good work
Walter
Canada
oh yes.... how about stripped down sans motor?
Hi Walter,
Welcome to AO. I am glad you came because I have been monitoring the conversation over at Talon.
All the parts are user serviceable. I made it so you can break it down without special tools. For instance, disconnecting a hose and one snap ring is all that is needed to remove the cylinders. There are no piston rings. The "piston" is a chrome plated steel rod no more or less. There are only orings making all the seals and they are stationary in the cylinder.
There is a back-check that uses an oring at the ends of the cylinders. No in and out valves like in a standard compressor. The cylinder pulls a slight vacuum on the back stroke until the rod pulls out of the stationary oring letting in the next charge.
The spring holds back an over-center arrangement on the lever arm. When the pressure against the pistons gets high enough, the over-center allows the arm to snap forward and hit the on-off switch as you surmised. The spring pressure controls the final cutoff with a small amount of adjustment by sliding the anchor along the piston shaft. Because there is a rated burst disk in the compressor, and its different for 3k and 4.5, I will not be selling a convertible model. What you do is your business but when your dead I need to say I didn't sell it to you that way.
Tell the guys over at Talon that there are many, many ways to make it better but only a few, that keeps it in this price category, with low volume production, and made in this country.
I would sell them without the motor but at the rpm its running, the cylinders are hitting 160 deg and not likely to handle more RPM's without melting the orings.
Hope that answers your questions.
AGD
Originally Posted by AGD
That's some VERY useful information there, Tom.
Tom, thank you.Originally Posted by AGD
I guess what i was getting at with the no motor thing was to reduce cost and weight for shipping. Speed of motor is most likely 1750rpm or 1140rpm?
cool method to do the inlet check and stages! I like that. Do you lubricate the orings?
Does the compressor need the burst disk? how about a spring controlled relief adjustable even?
Please advise if you would sell the housing stripped of motor and pressure cutout ( I would use a pair of pressure switchs calibrated for the 3,000psi and one at 4500psi.
Watching with admiration as I was one of the naysayers
Walter....