The first thing you want to do is make sure the orings in the valve are all good. If you have inspected the valve and they look fine, that is a good and you should be able to at least get it going until your new orings get here. The on-off pin should be 0.712" since it is an X-valve, and it should have the black quad oring inside a whitish urethane oring at the on-off top.
The first order of business is to get the gun working in mechanical mode. Do adjust your solenoid plunger first, though. It will affect all of your settings, and the length of the plunger is a critcal value that will affect electronic performance.
Steps (assuming you have good orings in your valve):
- Adjust the plunger and trigger rod assembly to the proper lengths.
- Remove valve and install short gold bolt spring.
- Remove all powertube shims
- Remove carrier from powertube and install the proper carrier size as per the level 10 tuning guide.
- Make sure the bumper is installed and intact (If the bumper is shredded, put a new one on).
- Install valve
- put selector switch towards mechanical mode setting
- hold trigger and air up gun.
- Release trigger.
- Did the sear click into place? If yes then proceed to the next step below. If not, the trigger rod will be limp and won't come forward, so you will need to adjust the level 10 bolt system.
- Listen for leaks.
- If no leaks are present, fire gun.
- If gun doesn't fire, increase velocity and continue to release and pull trigger until gun fires.
- If gun never fires you probably have level 10 bolt stick or are using a bottle with a regulator that has too low a pressure output.
Once you get the mechanical gun working, we can proceed to getting the electronic part working.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.