Brining my old mag out of storage

[SR_matt]

Hey everyone,

So I’m coming back to paintball after a 14 yeah hiatus. I would like to eventually get my x valve mag back out there (but i bought a new marker just to not have to worry about the old markers performing day one).

My main question is if I should tear the whole valve down before I even attempt to air it up or should i just put a couple drops of oil in the ASA, gas it up, and see what happens? I believe i had put some oil through it right before I put it in storage but it also hasn’t had any pressure on it in 14 years. It was working fine before (other than chopping but I realized after the fact the pin was set too long and i would chuff it if I tried to get on it with the 800psi input…)

Secondly should I have any concerns about my SS braided air line? I know it’s SS and all but the actual core is still plastic, should I just get a new one to not worry about it or should it be fine (i am planning to get a UHP Ninja tank to get the ULT to RT so it will have to hold 1050-1100 psi).

Thanks

[maniacmechanic]

if it's been in a climate controlled environment, Oil it up , and try it out ,,, if it don't leak , Run it , if it does leak , rebuild it ,,, no worries on the SS hose

[ffedmonson]

I wouldn't run 1100 psi input, especially with the ULT. If you insist on the Ninja SHP, use a rt on/off. But I would recommend a tank reg with 850 psi output. If you want to play with reactive trigger, try shorter on/off pins.

[SR_matt]

I wouldn't run 1100 psi input, especially with the ULT. If you insist on the Ninja SHP, use a rt on/off. But I would recommend a tank reg with 850 psi output. If you want to play with reactive trigger, try shorter on/off pins.

So it has been a a while and i am sure the best practices have changed but I always want to understand the logic behind it all.

When i was playing the standard practice (at least as i remember it) was to set the ULT up to be short and then up your input pressure. I never could get good reactivity out of either the ULT or RT on/offs with a standard HP output tank (i think it was 800-850 on the one i was using). I did start seeing as i have been getting back in that now people are saying to not up the pressure on the ULT kit but I am not totally understanding why?

For the shorter pins are those available for purchase or will I need to modify a stock pin (and if I need to modify is there a specific length range to stay in)?

[ffedmonson]

My understanding is the pin for the ULT is too thin and not designed for super high pressure input. The standard rt on/off is better if you must use the SHP. The ULT, and all mags in general imo, run better with 850 psi input. Thus shorter on/off pins. Stock rt is .750. Anything shorter will give you better reactivity. Last I checked AGD has .745 pins, but you'll probably have better desired effect in the .740 range. You can probably find a pin that length from somebody like Tuna or maybe a few others here. It is also not difficult to trim one down yourself, if you are mechanically inclined and have the proper tools. No shorter than .735 should be necessary. I am speaking towards the rt on/off, which I recommend. I don't have any experience with the ULT though, but you would use shims in that setup, which has the same effect as shortening the pin. Shims are available through AGD.

[SR_matt]

Ok yeah I thought the shims are supposed to accomplish the same thing with the ULT.

From looking on AGD it seems like the pins are the same but I may be misunderstanding how they are selling them. I will need to pull the ULT and RT on/off I have and take a look to ale sure I am understanding what’s going on there. But yeah if I go with shaving pins I’ve worked enough metal and have some dial calipers laying around to check my work. I know my friend ram 1100psi into his ULT for years when we played. Of course that doesn’t mean it is “acceptable” based on the design specs but if I do it I don’t mind playing the “what can it do, not what was it designed to do” since it’s not my only marker.

After some googling I am seeing that Luke’s has turn key pneumag setups now which was always a dream (when I got out it was pretty much “here’s how you do it, find the parts and good luck”). That may be a more desirable end point honestly, especially since it seems that you can at least kind of get some RT if you tap the LPR up a bit… and now to set up another budget to implement one my wallet stops smoldering from buying essential all new gear (pretty much anything I had with elastic in it was trash and I just went with an AXE 2.0 to have something out of the gate that I shouldn’t have to worry about being down half the day from sitting 14 years haha).

[ffedmonson]

To clarify: ULT and rt pins are different. ULT pins are thinner and more fragile. You want to use shims with these. Rt pins are the pins you would shave down.

[SR_matt]

Ok yeah I see that now that I am comparing them.

Now the shim amount shouldn’t change how far the sear pin sticks out to the trigger right? AGD had set it up for me but looking back I think it wasn’t gapped correctly as I remember that the pin and trigger should have about a credit card thickness of space when the trigger is full forward right?

[ffedmonson]

That is correct, there should be a credit card thickness space between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger. You shouldn't need to adjust the trigger rod, or rather, I never have.

[SR_matt]

Yeah I am not sure why it was that way from the start. I did have an aftermarket trigger on it so maybe the tolerances were a bit off compared to stock triggers. The gun worked ok but if I would try to RT it I would chuff it and chop even though the LVL10 was set up correctly.