How much would you pay for a "drop in" pneumag

[Corbet]

I'm thinking about purchasing the parts to create a pneumag, putting it all together (grinding the MPA, applying barbs, ect) and was wonder if there was a market for it.

How much would you pay for this? Assuming the parts alone cost $90.

[RoamingStorm]

120

[warbeak2099]

Drop the parts into a frame? Cuz that's still not possible. Mods still need to be done to the frame.

[Rudz]

frame return

how about if a frame was provided..and modified..and returned fully pnuemagged..id say 125 130..unless you provided the frames..then the price would rise dramatically

[Cow hunter]

for just internals and MAYBE for installation id say 130

[REDRT]

It must be a nickel/chrome 45 frame for me and must work with a classic rt, but if it was complete ready to install. I'd go as high as normal Emag lowers for something like that for a complete package.

[warbeak2099]

If we could send you the frame and recieve a bolt on pneuframe back, then I'd pay $150 for the service.

[nicad]

Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask.....

[warbeak2099]

Sure there would. The next best thing to being able to buy a finished frame would be being able to send your current frame in to get "pneu'd".

[Chronobreak]

Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask.....

interest depends greatly on cost, availability, performace, etc

if this was similar to the home mods, then i would say unles it was below $150 i wouldnt even consider it

if it was closer to the preoduction/proto versions then i would say under $250 would be pretty reasonable.

also as for interest i think theyr was 220 or so people saying they would buy one for $300 or so for the ptp version.

bolt on meaning i just add an air source and dont change any exisiting aprts as well.

i gave up hope on a pneumag a while back, ive been looking into what eelctro im going to get after i sell my mag..

[Corbet]

The great thing about this mod is its pointless to have a RT/X-valve. A Classic Valve works perfect except it might not recharge fast enough (but that can also be increased by a few mods, including using a RT On/Off, increasing the size of the hole between the on/off and regulator, and even swapping out some o-rings).

I planned to buy a X-valve but now that I started working on this mod its pointless.

All i have to do now is drill the frame (what kind of drill bits would drill through it? Any recommendations) and buy the micro rock.

[luke]

Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask.....

Chanting:
YES
YES
YES
YES

[darcwolf]

Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask.....

Absolutely YES! Especially for a Y-frame or Vert frame.

[PnueMagger]

The great thing about this mod is its pointless to have a RT/X-valve. A Classic Valve works perfect except it might not recharge fast enough (but that can also be increased by a few mods, including using a RT On/Off, increasing the size of the hole between the on/off and regulator, and even swapping out some o-rings).

I planned to buy a X-valve but now that I started working on this mod its pointless.

All i have to do now is drill the frame (what kind of drill bits would drill through it? Any recommendations) and buy the micro rock.

Any bit rated for drilling metal. Aluminum is very soft. I would spend the extra $$ and get some tungstun carbide bits. They won't dull out.

Just a note. The frame pressure (and thus trigger force) is dictated by the force required to activate the on off. The use of a ULT greatly lightens the trigger pull and brings it into the walkable category. ULT's can be used on AIR valves, but they are very tempormental. Also, in my experience, an X-valve with ULT is noticably lighter than an AIR valve with ULT. So the frame would have a lighter triggerpull with the x-valve.

[Arstron]

Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask.....

/me joins in the chant

Yes!
Yes!
Yes!
Yes!