Ok a while ago some one asked about the hyper frame and discussion was brought up about the trigger pull and I said at the time that I would probably look into it over the summer. Well I just did and I was able to improve the trigger pull on my mag hyper frame. I personally really like it but others may disagree. There appears to be one problem with this you will not be able to use the hyper mode unless your trigger job turns out better then mine. When in hyper mode the gun would just go full auto even after you let off the trigger you would have to push the trigger out to get it to stop. I could fix this by sanding down the switch possibly. But if I sand down the inside I will lose the quick response of the trigger job if I sand the outside it will not be as tight as I like it. At a later time I will pull out my spare switch and mess with all these variables to see if I can get something I like. So for now I will show you what was done. And some options you can experiment with.
I decided I wanted to leave the original switch unchanged that way if I broke something I still had back up. I went to radio shack took my brothers adrenaline angel and my mag we asked the sales person if she could get us the switch from the angel and if there would be an easy way to mount it with the existing setup. They don’t have that switch but we found another one that looked almost the same as the one in the hyper frame it fits the switch screw hole perfectly so I would not need to rig anything complicated up. They also did not have the connector to plug into the board. So first we looked through all the recycled batteries for on with a connector that would work after not finding one I bought a 10$ phone battery with the right connector. Since It already had the wires I did not have to buy wire too.
Here is a link to the switch Sorry I don’t have the box or remember the model of the battery.
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F010%5F007%5F007%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D016" >Radio Shack Lever Switch</a>
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper0.jpg">
Take out the battery. Next take out the 2 switch screws and rotate the switch out then unplug it from the board
Now all you have to do is build a new switch the same as the original with your new lever switch and phone battery just cut the connector off the battery make sure you have enough length to reach from the switch mount to the board. Then strip about ¼ inch off the end of the 2 wires. Then run the stripped ends through the holes in contacts on the switch. Put the red wire to contact 1(end closer to button) and the black with wire through contact 3 (middle). I don’t think it really matters what wire goes to which contact so long as they are in 1 and 3. Now solder them in place.
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper1.jpg">
Next you need to get the switch ready. Open the case of the switch their will be several places the casing snaps onto the switch simply use a pick or knife to pry it off carefully
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper2.jpg">
First take out the external lever you will not need that for the hyper frame. Then you need to look at the switch and find where the spring is mounted contact 1. What you need to do is bend that spring mount on contact 1 so that it puts less tension on the spring this will also lower the spring’s position. Use a pair of needle nosed pliers to end it in about 45 degrees should be good. You can slide contact 1 out or try to do it with the switch still assembled.
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper3.jpg">
You can also just do this same thing to the original but I don’t think it will be as good because the original switch button does has a recess in it and is a more stiff switch. I tested this by pressing them together and the radio shack switch closed before the centerflag switch.
Now you can carefully reassemble the switch and snap the case back on. Should look almost the same as the center flag switch now.
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper4.jpg">
Now rotate the switch back into the slot and line it up with the mounting holes. I had trouble getting the screws to go into the threads on the far side of the grip frame to fasten the switch in place. What I ended up doing was rounding the ends of the screw then just moving them around till they dropped in the holes and screwed them in the rest of the way.
<img src="http://www.msu.edu/~slouppau/hyper5.jpg">
Plug the connecter back into the board, put the battery back in and the grip panels back on. Now air it up turn on the power and see if it works. Any one who does this please let me know if you are having problems with hyper mode or any other modes.
I found this trigger job actually fires the gun almost as soon as you touch the trigger more like a good angel trigger job rather then at the back of the pull. My next project with the trigger will be to add a trigger stop to eliminate the unneeded excess pull your trigger now has. It is also much lighter then the centerflag switch.
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but i just want to know if i have to solder the wires in b/c i dont have access to a soldering tool or anything like that. thanks
