Trigger rod and trigger interaction

[MiniMaggin]

I have a 25 year old minimag with a trigger gaurd cut off and a 20 year old 3rd party 2 finger trigger.

i was reading this..
https://www.zakvetter.com/pages/pain...is_needed.html

and figured out that my this 3rd party trigger allows the trigger rod to slip upwards during eratic firing and causing a short stroke

question 1 is: does anyone have some insite or advise to this? i was thinking getting a x frame or intelli frame and just using it as mechanical... im thinking that these would be designed correctly to keep the trigger rod properly straight behind the trigger?

my x valve is firing perfectly semi auto, im noticing that when the trigger is firing it, the on/off pin doesnt get pushed all the way into the valve as if we pushed it in with our finger.....

question 2 is: does the on/off pin being pushed in all the way have anything to do with getting the gun to "RT"? im at fixed 850 psi ninja (havent verified with an output pressure though).. ill be tinkering with raising tank output presssure but ive heard of people RTing at 800 or so psi

[Tunaman]

I have a 25 year old minimag with a trigger gaurd cut off and a 20 year old 3rd party 2 finger trigger.

i was reading this..
https://www.zakvetter.com/pages/pain...is_needed.html

and figured out that my this 3rd party trigger allows the trigger rod to slip upwards during eratic firing and causing a short stroke

question 1 is: does anyone have some insite or advise to this? i was thinking getting a x frame or intelli frame and just using it as mechanical... im thinking that these would be designed correctly to keep the trigger rod properly straight behind the trigger?

my x valve is firing perfectly semi auto, im noticing that when the trigger is firing it, the on/off pin doesnt get pushed all the way into the valve as if we pushed it in with our finger.....

question 2 is: does the on/off pin being pushed in all the way have anything to do with getting the gun to "RT"? im at fixed 850 psi ninja (havent verified with an output pressure though).. ill be tinkering with raising tank output presssure but ive heard of people RTing at 800 or so psi

The trigger rod sits on a ledge in the frame to keep it close to where it needs to be. Only the benchmark triggers and frames would cause the trigger rod to ride up. If you have alot of slop in that old trigger it might happen. Check the gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when gassed up. There should be a space...any space. If it is touching you need to shorten the rod. Let us know if you need more.

[MiniMaggin]

The trigger rod sits on a ledge in the frame to keep it close to where it needs to be. Only the benchmark triggers and frames would cause the trigger rod to ride up. If you have alot of slop in that old trigger it might happen. Check the gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when gassed up. There should be a space...any space. If it is touching you need to shorten the rod. Let us know if you need more.

theres actually a large space. between the back of the trigger when fully forward, and gassed up. and then there is a lot of room above the rod meeting the trigger... so that the rod moves upward where contacting the trigger. i think the aftermarket trigger is FUBAR. (unless i can make the rod extend out farther to close the large gap. ) ill try to take a picture

[MiniMaggin]

This is gassed up. Crazy gap. i actually move the trigger back n forth out of habbit like it's a fidget spinner now that i think of it.

[Sandman]

You can definitely shorten that gap. I could drive my car through that. That's the AGD composite frame so it can't move upward's much....very little room for it to do that. Close that gap and it should feel better shooting.

[Tunaman]

And measure that trigger rod before you make it longer. See how close it is to 1.985 inches.

[Nobody]

If you don't have a measuring device that can get that small, stick a credit card or similar inbetween the trigger and rod tip. That will get you very close to what is standard.

[vintage]

as for question 2, it is not uncommon for me to have to push the on/off pin up all the way with something in order to get the valve out from time to time on most of my markers. as for the rt effect every valve reacts differently. Tuna and others will tell you it's better to slowly grind down the on/off pin to get the valve to react like you want than to increase your input pressure.

[MiniMaggin]

You can definitely shorten that gap. I could drive my car through that. That's the AGD composite frame so it can't move upward's much....very little room for it to do that. Close that gap and it should feel better shooting.

Hmmm when comparing the factory single finger trigger i still have, it seems like the 3rd part double trigger is way off. i imaging adjusting the trigger rod to compensate for a crappy 3rd party trigger isnt best? maybe it wouldnt matter? when Tuna says measure the rod to be 1.985 inches, is that from the end of the trigger rod to the axis of the pivot?

[MiniMaggin]

as for question 2, it is not uncommon for me to have to push the on/off pin up all the way with something in order to get the valve out from time to time on most of my markers. as for the rt effect every valve reacts differently. Tuna and others will tell you it's better to slowly grind down the on/off pin to get the valve to react like you want than to increase your input pressure.

Interesting. Ill have to pick up another on/off pin and experiment. I just want to empy hoppers at game start to scare all the rec ball newbies...

[Tunaman]

Hmmm when comparing the factory single finger trigger i still have, it seems like the 3rd part double trigger is way off. i imaging adjusting the trigger rod to compensate for a crappy 3rd party trigger isnt best? maybe it wouldnt matter? when Tuna says measure the rod to be 1.985 inches, is that from the end of the trigger rod to the axis of the pivot?

Very end of the clevis to the end of the rod.

[MiniMaggin]

Very end of the clevis to the end of the rod.

ok thanks

[MiniMaggin]

Update: ended up getting an X frame and not touching the trigger rod length. slapped everything together and wow what a difference, it rips! btw i had to get a black allen head "header bolt" instead of the factory classic frame-to-body bolt. the classic bolt head is too wide and the xframe blade trigger was contacting it. as a side note. the stock xvalve on/off pin of 750 wasnt as crisp or as solid feeling as the 740 length i threw in as well.

btw, i cant seem to post pictures? sometimes the forum webpage looks different. anyone know whats going on?

[Bunny]

Update: ended up getting an X frame and not touching the trigger rod length. slapped everything together and wow what a difference, it rips! btw i had to get a black allen head "header bolt" instead of the factory classic frame-to-body bolt. the classic bolt head is too wide and the xframe blade trigger was contacting it. as a side note. the stock xvalve on/off pin of 750 wasnt as crisp or as solid feeling as the 740 length i threw in as well.

btw, i cant seem to post pictures? sometimes the forum webpage looks different. anyone know whats going on?

MiniMaggin: hey, can you send me a PM with your Operating System and Browser information? You could also try the following...

On desktop:
If you click the "Insert Images" button (looks like square with a tree)
Click the "From the computer" tab.
Click "Choose File" (Find the file on your computer)
Click "Upload Files" to attach into the forum.

You can also download the "Tapatalk" app on your smartphone. You can find our forum there. You can attach files (using the Tapatalk hosting service) or into Automags.org

[MiniMaggin]

i have a feeling that insert image button isnt on the screen im seeing. if you scroll up, i posted a picture earlier. but the UI has completely changes.... at one point i swear i could go back to the better looking UI by omitting "www." from "www.automags.org" and only entering "automags.org" but it doesnt work like that now. ill PM you the info you requested.

[MiniMaggin]

When I open Automags.org on Safari instead of chrome the proper UI works... and i can add this picture.

Here is the "header bolt" i mentioned to secure the frame and body together. it has a smaller diameter head than the classic factory bolt.