The SpyderMAG, Incl a How To
I saw a pic of something like this In a thread here, and I figured it would be fun to do. I picked up an E-frame on e-bay, took my e-mag bolt, ule body, rail and I went and ruined it by bolting on a Spyder part 
::Update::
Now with video!
In the video you can see the infamous mag man Hexis making my frankenstein marker sing!
The eyes are off(they work, just forgot to reset the eye delay), you can hear the lvl 10 doing it's job. This was using paint that had been sitting in my closet in unsealed bags for at least a year and a half, I think they are from last year's first biggame at paintballsam's.
::Update::
I finally got some pics ready to go, so here they are; click on the image for the full size/correct hight to width ratio
here is the whole shebang:
here is the gripframe with eyes:
The red circle is the detail of the spyder sear spring moved to the 3rd peg of the micro switch, explained later. The yellow circle is the connection for the eyes, which i routed the wires for under the t-board.
the ule mainbody with eyes:
the rail with slots for eye wires:
the rail and ule mainbody with eye wires and rounting:
and here are the sears, showing before and after, the modifications I did to each:
Here it shows how the 2 sears contact each other:
The only tools I had used were a vise, a drill and a dremel. My friend has a mill but we had trouble with our scheduals, (I work nights, so on my days off I usually still sleep during the day ) I spent a day on it, and it works great. So far no bugs, I am trying to borow Hexis's scuba gear so I can put a few thousand rounds through it and make sure everything is solid.
I am trying to get some pics of the project up, including close ups of the sear work, and meybe even a movie of the gun working. I have a t-board I am going to put in, along with break beam eyes, and a WAS switch, probably in 3 weeks, after I get back from vacation. i'll update with all that info when I get it done.
For only 60$ for the frame, this is a really cheap way to get a fast electro. I'm pretty poor so this made me happy
The t-board is 65$ or so. It isn't a devilmag, but for me it was fun.
Here is what I did to make the mod work. I did all this with the full understanding that I might have wasted the 60 bucks I spent on the frame, not to mention the sear for the AGD RT. YOU AND ONLY YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS. Don't do any of this, I don't recomend it. Now, for the adults who don't sue everyone for everything:
The parts beeing cut/ground/smoothed will get very hot! I have wood in my vise so that I dont damage the parts with metal on metal friction. I had to be very carefull because the pieces will get hot enough to ignite this wood, and start a fire. if the metal gets too hot, let it cool before continuing.
1. Products:
I bought a kingman e-frame on e-bay, I don't think It was a 3.0, the packaging just says kingman spyder e-frame. I also ordered a T-board from scenarion dreams with break beam eyes, which I will get into later. You of course need the ult trigger mod to get this to work.
2. Starting up:
Poke out the post holding the the sear, the post holding the trigger, and the 2 posts holding the micro switch. Put these aside, along with the trigger and the Spyder sear, and the springs for both of these. You will need all of these. Pull the switch out of the gun, forward through thetrigger area. The wires will still be there. Take the spring from the Spyder sear and wedge it onto the top post (as it sits in the gun) of the switch. it is the only one without wires atached. this will push the sear back, we will need this later.
3. Changes to e-frame:
1. I drilled out a hole in the e-frame for the frame screw which secures the AGD ule body to the rail, and subsequently to the gripframe. (about an inch forward of the trigger adjustment, I just put the rail over the top of the frame and penciled the spot for the hole)
2. I then bored out the hole on the back of the E-frame so that the stock AGD thumbscrew would fit through it.
3. I took my dremel, and for speed's sake I took 3 heavy duty cutting wheels, and put them on the dremel spindle. I then drilled 2 holes in the grip frame. From the top looking down with the back of the frame towards my stomach, the 2 holes are below the end of the Spyder Sear. I used a bit roughly the same width as the space for the sear. These holes are simply to make the boring out of that space easier for the dremel. This space is ultimately to give the AGD sear space to rock back and forth. It is just deep enough to stop right above the solenoid, and is about an inch long, it basicly takes the space for the Spyder Sear and extends it towards the back of the E frame.
4. As stated earlier; Take the spring from the Spyder sear and wedge it onto the top post (as it sits in the gun) of the switch. it is the only one without wires atached. this will push the sear back, we will need this later.
4. Changes to the Spyder Sear:
This is one of the 2 hard parts. If you take off too much metal, you will have to get another sear and start over.
With the dremel I cut the top of the Spyder sear,(the shortest arm) so that it would fit under the agd sear. I made it about half of the origional thinckness.
Next I cut the part of the sear that touches the spyder bolt in a stock spyder. You can tell which end of the l shape it is easily because it is the shorter of the 2, and it has a small depresion in the bottom that we pulled the spring out of. What you want to do is cut this hole ALMOST off. Then I took the same cuting wheel and slowly rounded the end where it will contact the AGD sear. I then polished it smooth with the polishing wheels. The less friction this part exerts, the less the Solenoid needs to work.
5. Changes to the AGD Sear.
This is the more difficult of the 2 sear modifications. If you do this wrong, you have to get a new sear and start over. This takes a little luck, and some skill to get right. make sure you have a full tank of air and test often.
The AGD sear has an arm that hands down into the grip frame and has a swinging rod atached to it. I cut the last fourth of this off, a little above the rod hole so that it would fit into the space I made in the e-frame. Thats the easy part.
Now, using the dremel I ground the lower arm of the AGD sear at an angle. At the bottom of this arm (the part I had just cut short) There is no grinding done at all! The slope made is inward towards the top of the sear. Here is a crappy idea of what I am talking about:
|||====0==||
/|
/ |
/_|
The 0 is the bearing in the agd sear.
The slope I made in the AGD Sear is there so that when the Spyder Sear is activated, and moves downward, it pushes the AGD Swing arm backwards, thus activating the On/off.
The reason you have to be so very carefull is if you make the angle incorectly, you can either make the Spyder sear simply Not have enough contact to activate it, or you can make it too thin and it will snap during use.
I assebled and tested the mag at least 5 times making sure I didn't take off to much, until I got it just right.
6. Conclusion:
Put the Spyder sear back in, and pound the post back in, flush with the frame. Put the switch, with the spring on it, back in and pund the 2 posts back in, fluch with the frame. if you want to do a switch job, now is the time. Here is a link to a good how to, if you want to stretch the the spring.
Put the trigger back in, I did it without the trigger spring, I find the switch has enough force to return the trigger, makes it real easy to walk. Pund the post back in, flush with the frame.
7. End notes:
All in all this project took me a long time, about a full day. There are other and probably better ways to do this. I am intruiged by the idea of turning around the Solenoid, I think it would work better, but I would have to manufacture a custome AGD sear to do this, not to mention using a milling machine to mill out more channels in the e-frame. I will be putting up the pictures of the sears, and hopefully a movie of the gun firing at some point, all depending on my friends.
When I get the eyes in and working I will put up a how to for that as well. I am also getting a WAS switch, because I like the feel of those better than the stock micro switch.
Big up to all the Tinker-ers out there!
Finally got a mag, and I go and put a spyder part on it! What a punk
::Update::
Now with video!
In the video you can see the infamous mag man Hexis making my frankenstein marker sing!
The eyes are off(they work, just forgot to reset the eye delay), you can hear the lvl 10 doing it's job. This was using paint that had been sitting in my closet in unsealed bags for at least a year and a half, I think they are from last year's first biggame at paintballsam's.
::Update::
I finally got some pics ready to go, so here they are; click on the image for the full size/correct hight to width ratio
here is the whole shebang:
here is the gripframe with eyes:
The red circle is the detail of the spyder sear spring moved to the 3rd peg of the micro switch, explained later. The yellow circle is the connection for the eyes, which i routed the wires for under the t-board.
the ule mainbody with eyes:
the rail with slots for eye wires:
the rail and ule mainbody with eye wires and rounting:
and here are the sears, showing before and after, the modifications I did to each:
Here it shows how the 2 sears contact each other:
The only tools I had used were a vise, a drill and a dremel. My friend has a mill but we had trouble with our scheduals, (I work nights, so on my days off I usually still sleep during the day ) I spent a day on it, and it works great. So far no bugs, I am trying to borow Hexis's scuba gear so I can put a few thousand rounds through it and make sure everything is solid.
I am trying to get some pics of the project up, including close ups of the sear work, and meybe even a movie of the gun working. I have a t-board I am going to put in, along with break beam eyes, and a WAS switch, probably in 3 weeks, after I get back from vacation. i'll update with all that info when I get it done.
For only 60$ for the frame, this is a really cheap way to get a fast electro. I'm pretty poor so this made me happy
The t-board is 65$ or so. It isn't a devilmag, but for me it was fun.Here is what I did to make the mod work. I did all this with the full understanding that I might have wasted the 60 bucks I spent on the frame, not to mention the sear for the AGD RT. YOU AND ONLY YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS. Don't do any of this, I don't recomend it. Now, for the adults who don't sue everyone for everything:
The parts beeing cut/ground/smoothed will get very hot! I have wood in my vise so that I dont damage the parts with metal on metal friction. I had to be very carefull because the pieces will get hot enough to ignite this wood, and start a fire. if the metal gets too hot, let it cool before continuing.
1. Products:
I bought a kingman e-frame on e-bay, I don't think It was a 3.0, the packaging just says kingman spyder e-frame. I also ordered a T-board from scenarion dreams with break beam eyes, which I will get into later. You of course need the ult trigger mod to get this to work.
2. Starting up:
Poke out the post holding the the sear, the post holding the trigger, and the 2 posts holding the micro switch. Put these aside, along with the trigger and the Spyder sear, and the springs for both of these. You will need all of these. Pull the switch out of the gun, forward through thetrigger area. The wires will still be there. Take the spring from the Spyder sear and wedge it onto the top post (as it sits in the gun) of the switch. it is the only one without wires atached. this will push the sear back, we will need this later.
3. Changes to e-frame:
1. I drilled out a hole in the e-frame for the frame screw which secures the AGD ule body to the rail, and subsequently to the gripframe. (about an inch forward of the trigger adjustment, I just put the rail over the top of the frame and penciled the spot for the hole)
2. I then bored out the hole on the back of the E-frame so that the stock AGD thumbscrew would fit through it.
3. I took my dremel, and for speed's sake I took 3 heavy duty cutting wheels, and put them on the dremel spindle. I then drilled 2 holes in the grip frame. From the top looking down with the back of the frame towards my stomach, the 2 holes are below the end of the Spyder Sear. I used a bit roughly the same width as the space for the sear. These holes are simply to make the boring out of that space easier for the dremel. This space is ultimately to give the AGD sear space to rock back and forth. It is just deep enough to stop right above the solenoid, and is about an inch long, it basicly takes the space for the Spyder Sear and extends it towards the back of the E frame.
4. As stated earlier; Take the spring from the Spyder sear and wedge it onto the top post (as it sits in the gun) of the switch. it is the only one without wires atached. this will push the sear back, we will need this later.
4. Changes to the Spyder Sear:
This is one of the 2 hard parts. If you take off too much metal, you will have to get another sear and start over.
With the dremel I cut the top of the Spyder sear,(the shortest arm) so that it would fit under the agd sear. I made it about half of the origional thinckness.
Next I cut the part of the sear that touches the spyder bolt in a stock spyder. You can tell which end of the l shape it is easily because it is the shorter of the 2, and it has a small depresion in the bottom that we pulled the spring out of. What you want to do is cut this hole ALMOST off. Then I took the same cuting wheel and slowly rounded the end where it will contact the AGD sear. I then polished it smooth with the polishing wheels. The less friction this part exerts, the less the Solenoid needs to work.
5. Changes to the AGD Sear.
This is the more difficult of the 2 sear modifications. If you do this wrong, you have to get a new sear and start over. This takes a little luck, and some skill to get right. make sure you have a full tank of air and test often.
The AGD sear has an arm that hands down into the grip frame and has a swinging rod atached to it. I cut the last fourth of this off, a little above the rod hole so that it would fit into the space I made in the e-frame. Thats the easy part.
Now, using the dremel I ground the lower arm of the AGD sear at an angle. At the bottom of this arm (the part I had just cut short) There is no grinding done at all! The slope made is inward towards the top of the sear. Here is a crappy idea of what I am talking about:
|||====0==||
/|
/ |
/_|
The 0 is the bearing in the agd sear.
The slope I made in the AGD Sear is there so that when the Spyder Sear is activated, and moves downward, it pushes the AGD Swing arm backwards, thus activating the On/off.
The reason you have to be so very carefull is if you make the angle incorectly, you can either make the Spyder sear simply Not have enough contact to activate it, or you can make it too thin and it will snap during use.
I assebled and tested the mag at least 5 times making sure I didn't take off to much, until I got it just right.
6. Conclusion:
Put the Spyder sear back in, and pound the post back in, flush with the frame. Put the switch, with the spring on it, back in and pund the 2 posts back in, fluch with the frame. if you want to do a switch job, now is the time. Here is a link to a good how to, if you want to stretch the the spring.
Put the trigger back in, I did it without the trigger spring, I find the switch has enough force to return the trigger, makes it real easy to walk. Pund the post back in, flush with the frame.
7. End notes:
All in all this project took me a long time, about a full day. There are other and probably better ways to do this. I am intruiged by the idea of turning around the Solenoid, I think it would work better, but I would have to manufacture a custome AGD sear to do this, not to mention using a milling machine to mill out more channels in the e-frame. I will be putting up the pictures of the sears, and hopefully a movie of the gun firing at some point, all depending on my friends.
When I get the eyes in and working I will put up a how to for that as well. I am also getting a WAS switch, because I like the feel of those better than the stock micro switch.
Big up to all the Tinker-ers out there!
Finally got a mag, and I go and put a spyder part on it! What a punk
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