AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Digikey. Damn i forget exactly who makes it, I have one i got from them. (my brain is scrambled sorry) They have a very similar eye element. The exact one may not be made anymore. Only difference is a filter on it to keep out the visible light.
1 5v from emag board
2 neg "emitter " (ground ) screw that mounts board
3 neg "collector " (ground ) screw that mounts board
4 sig from " collector " this goes to the e-mag board, the blue variable resistor varies the voltage signal by bleeding it to ground.
the board only looks for a true high or low ( 1 or 0 ). this point of turn on will change with paint color due to IR reflection. thus you change where the board turns on when a ball is present.
the sensor used in the ACE boards are obsolete I have not been able to find a direct replacement.
1 5v from emag board
2 neg "emitter " (ground ) screw that mounts board
3 neg "collector " (ground ) screw that mounts board
4 sig from " collector " this goes in series with the blue variable resistor vary the voltage signal going to the board.
the board only looks for a true high or low ( 1 or 0 ). this point of turn on will change with paint color due to IR reflection. thus you change where the board turns on when a ball is present.
the sensor used in the ACE boards are obsolete I have not been able to find a direct replacement.
The one I listed at the top is close, however it does not have the "F" designation at the end, meaning 'filter'.
Thanks Kayle. Looks like there was more added to the PC board version for US X-mags. My euro xmags both have wiring similar to this:
The IR recieves 5volts from the Emag board, and then that wire is spliced and a resister is put in series and it is attached to I believe point #4. That seems different from your description... I have the blue potentiometer in parallel (?) with the IR emitter/collector that goes to the #1 & #3 pins on the board jumper.
So if I leave out the adjustable potentiometer, I would lose the ability to adjust for all kinds of paint (to toned, etc)?
the sensor used in the ACE boards are obsolete I have not been able to find a direct replacement.
The euro ACE appears to be identical to the eblade ACE as well as the Digikey part listed earlier in the thread. Is this not the case?
EDIT - here is a source for the OPT710/OPT710F/OPT730/OPT730F
That's certainly the same size. It will work, I've used it in the past (got it from a guy that was stationed in korea) at least seemed to work okay anyway.
I'm looking at the datasheets for both of them, they're on par except the Kog eye is rated to a little less voltage (emitter is 5v instead of the stock eye rated to 6v, detector is 3v insteadof stock eye 6v again).
I was the one that replied to your post on the Guild forum, I forfot to mention some stuff though. The original eyes were from the company Sharp as far as I know, but they no longer make them. I think they switched over to a similar eye from Lumex, but it seems to be virtually impossible to find.
SP went through the same bs with the Shocker eyes...
Yea - I ended up looking up the specs for the eye also when wiring it. Here is my diagram in words
Looking down on the top of the eye (as if you were a paintball), we'll use a car analogy. The flad side of the IR is the front.
Driver: Red 5v power wire to emag board
Passenger: Black wire to potentiometer and 1st/bottom pin on jumper
Rear Driver Side: Green wire to potentiometer and 3rd from bottom pin on jumper
Rear Passenger Side: Power off the 5v red with a resister wired in series
The resister is blue with the following stripes:
Red
Green
Black
Black
.
.
.
Red
Anybody know what that is? Also, any sources for potentiometers?
Otherwise I think you could get this setup on any emag board without too much drama, the wireing is not that complex.
Comment