How do I drill/tap for an LPR?

[rawbutter]

Well, my pneumag plans were coming along fine until I got to the part where I had to buy a drill/tap to mount my Tickler LPR. The problem is that none of the local stores carry what I need.

After doing some research, I think that I need a 1/8-27 NPT tap. But.... I don't want to spend the $12 if I'm not buying the right thing.

So, can someone confirm/deny what I need to drill/tap for an LPR?

[robnix]

Well, my pneumag plans were coming along fine until I got to the part where I had to buy a drill/tap to mount my Tickler LPR. The problem is that none of the local stores carry what I need.

In fact, I'm not even sure what kind of tap I need. The highest thread-count tap I've been able to find is a 3/8-24... and that's not enough threads per inch. The Tickler has a higher thread count... 3/8-30 maybe?

So, if anyone can tell me what kind of tap I need to get, or (even better) provide a link where I can get one online, I would be very thankful.

If you don't have a drill press, I would HIGHLY recommend sending the part you need tapped to Luke over at http://www.lukescustoms.com. Fast, good pricing, and does quality work.

[rawbutter]

If you don't have a drill press, I would HIGHLY recommend sending the part you need tapped to Luke over at http://www.lukescustoms.com. Fast, good pricing, and does quality work.

I considered sending it to Luke, but I do have a drill press, and I've been practicing a lot to the point where I feel very confident to do it on my own. I just need to know what part to buy.

[cyberave68]

Its not to hard to do. Just make sure you use 3-4 dsifferent size bit to achive the right size hole. Going to big in size bits will cause it to stick when drilling and spinnout. The most important is to make sure you have the ASA sitting straight up. Use something called a "V" block. A peace of 2X4 with a "v" shaped cut into it. That will help you steady the asa and also help keep it from rolling around on you while you work. And yes a 1/8" - NTP tap is what you looking for. With this type of tap you dont want put it all the way thru the hole. The tap has a small tapper on it which is how they seal so well. If you go to deep you wont be able to set the seal and it will leak. If you dont go deep enuff you wont be able to screw it in that far... Its better to put it on and off a few times as not to go to far the first time...

Here is a pic of my "V" block and my ASA tap jig...

[rawbutter]

And yes a 1/8" - NTP tap is what you looking for.

Thanks.

And that's a nice looking jig you got there. I'd steal the idea.... if I was drilling out an ASA. I have something else in mind, though.

[BREAD_DA_PAINTER]

Its not to hard to do. Just make sure you use 3-4 dsifferent size bit to achive the right size hole. Going to big in size bits will cause it to stick when drilling and spinnout. The most important is to make sure you have the ASA sitting straight up. Use something called a "V" block. A peace of 2X4 with a "v" shaped cut into it. That will help you steady the asa and also help keep it from rolling around on you while you work. And yes a 1/8" - NTP tap is what you looking for. With this type of tap you dont want put it all the way thru the hole. The tap has a small tapper on it which is how they seal so well. If you go to deep you wont be able to set the seal and it will leak. If you dont go deep enuff you wont be able to screw it in that far... Its better to put it on and off a few times as not to go to far the first time...

Here is a pic of my "V" block and my ASA tap jig...

we all dont have extra rails we can chop up so we get it right everytime.... great idea though... i got tired of messing mine up so i put it in the grip..

[Warwitch]

Good idea on that grooved jig. But to center the ASA all you really need to do is put a fitting in each side of it. No need to go around just mangling rails

Edit: Doh didnt see you had it ever so securely fashioned in there.

[Pneumagger]

Well, you could send it to luke for the same amount of money it may cost you to get the R bit and npt tap. Or you could have some fun and do it yourself. Either way should be fine.

Also, I'm not sure where you live - but ANY Home Depot, Do-It-Best, Sears or other manly hardware store should carry "R" size drill bits and 1/8-27 NPT drill bits. Look in the drill bit section or possibly the piping/plumbing section.

[Spider-TW]

It's funny that mounting the LPR on a vert ASA is one of the most critical cuts on a pneumag. You can get away with a lot of hacking elsewhere.

No one wants their super-pneu to have a bent, uh, LPR.

[rawbutter]

Also, I'm not sure where you live - but ANY Home Depot, Do-It-Best, Sears or other manly hardware store should carry "R" size drill bits and 1/8-27 NPT drill bits. Look in the drill bit section or possibly the piping/plumbing section.

Crap... I didn't think to look in the plumbing section. I was looking in hardware, where ALL the other drill taps are.

And FYI to everyone... I'm putting the LPR inside of my UMF. Or that's the plan, anyway. It's still in the mail, so I haven't seen it in person to make sure that it will work. From the pictures it looks like it will be a little tight (not in height, but in width... I think the grip mount holes are going to get in the way). So who knows. Maybe I will be tapping the ASA.

Not to change topics... but this is my thread. Has anyone ever put/seen an LPR inside of a UMF? I've seen them inside of Vert frames and even Intellis, but I haven't seen an LPR inside of a UMF.

[cyberave68]

we all dont have extra rails we can chop up so we get it right everytime.... great idea though... i got tired of messing mine up so i put it in the grip..

HAHA funny... I actually was ano stripping that rail when my little monster wanted to play. i forgot about it and it sat in the strip tank for 16 hours... So i didnt have any other use for it till i made the jig...

Crap... I didn't think to look in the plumbing section. I was looking in hardware, where ALL the other drill taps are.

I have a site that you can get a kick arse 1/8" npt tap if you need it still. Let me know and i'll PM it to you...

Later,

[Pneumagger]

Crap... I didn't think to look in the plumbing section. I was looking in hardware, where ALL the other drill taps are.

And FYI to everyone... I'm putting the LPR inside of my UMF. Or that's the plan, anyway. It's still in the mail, so I haven't seen it in person to make sure that it will work. From the pictures it looks like it will be a little tight (not in height, but in width... I think the grip mount holes are going to get in the way). So who knows. Maybe I will be tapping the ASA.

Not to change topics... but this is my thread. Has anyone ever put/seen an LPR inside of a UMF? I've seen them inside of Vert frames and even Intellis, but I haven't seen an LPR inside of a UMF.

You'll have to either
a) Make a custom tap that can run down through the top of the frame
b) Through tap the 1/8-27 from the bottom, effectively removing the taper so you can thred the LPR in from the inside. You will need a good sealant to seal the treads now that there is no taper.
c) create a banjo bolt that threads into the LPR input and connects through the frame to the ASA.

B and C are easily done. A and B require creative use of orings and a bolt on ASA, not dovetail. I have a few pics afloating around of B and C.

[rawbutter]

You'll have to either
a) Make a custom tap that can run down through the top of the frame
b) Through tap the 1/8-27 from the bottom, effectively removing the taper so you can thred the LPR in from the inside. You will need a good sealant to seal the treads now that there is no taper.
c) create a banjo bolt that threads into the LPR input and connects through the frame to the ASA.

B and C are easily done. A and B require creative use of orings and a bolt on ASA, not dovetail. I have a few pics afloating around of B and C.

Well, now that you've mentioned these ideas, let me show you what I was thinking of doing.

I was going to...
a) drill tap the bottom of the UMF for a Tickler LPR.
b) tap the inside of the LPR for a set screw... creating an extension of sorts
c) drill an air hole through the set srew
d) since I will have a UMF with a dovetail rail, I have an ASA that will slide right onto that dovetail, preventing lateral movement (that's not really a step... just a fact)
e) on the ASA, drill out a little hole for an o-ring (this will prevent the o-ring from expanding).... and then drill a smaller hole to tap into the air source

Therefore, when I attach the ASA to the rail, set the o-ring, and screw in the LPR with the set-screw extension, the set screw (which has a tapered end) will sandwich the o-ring inside that little divot I drilled, and this will create a tight seal. Or at least that's the plan. The air will be partially redirected up through the o-ring, set-screw, and into the LPR, where I can use it for... well... you can figure out the rest.

Here's a quick diagram I whipped up... hope it helps to visualize all this.



If you see any flaws in my design, feel free to point them out. I'd really love to do this without blowing anything up.

[BREAD_DA_PAINTER]

here are a couple more pics of the waay i did my lpr..

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2370056

i didnt update these pics here yet... you will need a direct mount asa and not one that is a rail mount.. all you need to do is counter sink into on/off and that will keep oring from moving.. hope my pics help out..

[rawbutter]

here are a couple more pics of the waay i did my lpr..

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2370056

i didnt update these pics here yet... you will need a direct mount asa and not one that is a rail mount.. all you need to do is counter sink into on/off and that will keep oring from moving.. hope my pics help out..

Those pics do help a lot. I see the counter sink where your o-ring goes. That makes sense... and it's what I'm planning on doing.

Why won't this work on a rail-mounted ASA, though? Is the rail mounting not as strong as a direct screw mount? Will the 800+ PSI just blow the thing off?