Can somebody or anybody explain what a PneuMag is and or how it works?

[TeamBob]

Like the title says. I have Mags now and have had them for the last ten years or so. But I have also been out of the up-to-date paintball world for the last year or so. Can someone explain to me how the pneumag works? Mainly the trigger assembly, i know how the rest of the gun works, well kinda anyways. I have the general concept that somehow pneumatics (sp?) are being used to lighten and or shorten the trigger pull. The last few nights I have been looking back into the world of Mags via the net, obviously, and it appears that their have been many inventions recently with the Mags, I.e pneumags, newer up to date frames such as the RPG 90 deg.(which i would also like to know more about) and other interesting things aswell. So long story short will some explain how the pneumag trigger works? Thank you



p.s pardon any thing that may not be spelled correctly, thanks again

[olinar]

You have an on board low pressure regulator (lpr) that is set up somewhere on the marker.
Many have modded it to fit into the frame but there are easier methods like screwing it into the extra port on an asa.

The lpr regulates pressure down to like 40-70 and that pressure enters the pneumatics.

The pneumatics consist of the msv-2 and the mpa-3.

The msv-2 has a lever one one side that pushes pressure out to the mpa-3 when the lever is depressed.

That pressure is released on pull of the trigger.
The trigger hits the lever through a hole that needs to be drilled so that a small rod can go through.

The released pressure heading to the mpa-3 pushes out a small ram that hits the sear. It is enough pressure to actuate the sear and can cycle up to 20+ cps with some mods.

There are lots of threads with pictures that will better illustrate what I am saying, Heres is a model in paint that is actually really helpful on the placement of everything.
The qev as illustrated is not needed but, It will help when reaching the higher rates of fire.

[questionful]

In Ydna's animation, the switch is a spool valve, but the MSV-2 that is most commonly used is actually a poppet I believe.

[TeamBob]

wow

Wow, I thank you both very much. Olinar you explained that very well and I understand it completely. Questionful, that diagram is amazing, very helpful. I had been looking at as many pics on here as i could and i had concluded thus far that it worked somewhat like that, but hadent figured the details out yet. Looks like im going to have to be building another mag her really soon. Are there any companys out there that do this work from start to finish? What is rough priceing on this, like labor wise? Obviously the parts cost what they cost lol. Thank you both again.

[TeamBob]

a little something else

Here is a link I just came across for the do-it-yourself kinda person. But it also explains is very simple terms what a pneumag is and how it works. Feel free to use this link while assisting others with this general knowledge. http://pneumags.blogspot.com/

[Beezleboss]

cyberave here on ao sells a pneukit, and theres a few how tos around i think cyberave even has a link in his thread, look in the dealers forum, hes usually on the first page

[TeamBob]

ok

will do.

[Thatcher]

Very well done. I never really understood it till that either. good job!

[PrimoRocker]

What is the purpose of the threaded sear stop?
I'm refering to the first diagram.

[TeamBob]

i think

i would imagine to stop the sear from coming back. Once the MPA-3 hit the sear and it hinges back far enough to release the bolt and let the air through, it doesnt need to go back any farther. So the shorter the distance it has to travel, the shorter the distance the faster the recycleing of the system the faster you can shoot again, so fine tuneing i would say. But this would just be my reasoning. Im deff. not 1 of the experts around here.

[olinar]

Teambod, you are absolutely correct!

The sear stop and the qev are some things that are don to get the pneumag to fire at the 20+ rate.

They are not needed and will allow the marker to shoot 16-17 consistently without them.

[Hilltop Customs]

i would imagine to stop the sear from coming back. Once the MPA-3 hit the sear and it hinges back far enough to release the bolt and let the air through, it doesnt need to go back any farther. So the shorter the distance it has to travel, the shorter the distance the faster the recycleing of the system the faster you can shoot again, so fine tuneing i would say. But this would just be my reasoning. Im deff. not 1 of the experts around here.

yep.....only thing is the sear has to move far enough to release the bolt and STOP air flow through the on/off.(idk if you meant let air through the bolt....which would be right)

your completely right, stopping the sear allows you to use a smaller volume of air in the mpa3 ram....less air means lower fill/empty time, faster cycling of the ram and lower required trigger pull time....less chuffing.

One thing that is not mentioned much is pre-travel of the ram.....which will have just as big of an effect of cycle time, air usage and required trigger pull time(chuffing) as post travel.

One bad thing about limiting post travel(sear stop) is the fact that it can allow the bolt to rub on the sear....increasing both sear and bolt wear. Just give it a little extra turn after the marker first starts to fire.(amt of turn will depend on thread type of stop screw)

[TeamBob]

ya

ya...i know it was something like that... lol. Thanks for the input guys

[Spider-TW]

Teambod, you are absolutely correct!

The sear stop and the qev are some things that are don to get the pneumag to fire at the 20+ rate.

They are not needed and will allow the marker to shoot 16-17 consistently without them.

I could actually tell the difference on a classic valve pneu when adjusting the sear stop. With the weaker return of the RT on/off in a classic valve, having that limit there helped with the chuffing.

The other use on a reactive valve may be to keep the sear from smacking the bottom of the on/off all the time, but I haven't seen that or heard that it caused problems. Actually, the (less than really old) sear has that little bump that hits the bottom of the body, so knocking the on/off shouldn't be an issue there.

However, when you're messing with on/off pin lengths or shims down to 0.005 inches, it's nice to have control of that overtravel.