Spider's Garage has some available space for jeweling bodies

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  • Spider-TW
    U R techno-literate!

    • Oct 2006
    • 3554

    #1

    Spider's Garage has some available space for jeweling bodies

    I've maxed out my jeweling efficiency and determined a cost for doing bodies. I'm offering stainless body jeweling as a service. I'll keep three customers at a time. I don't know if that is a necessary limitation market-wise, but that's all I'm comfortable with.

    The rates are (11-1-2010);

    automag body: $40 + shipping
    minimag body: $45 + shipping
    Classic RT body: $50 + shipping

    Barrels are by the nearest length to the bodies above.

    Stainless valves: $40 + shipping (includes polishing the valve)

    Maximum turnaround time will be two weeks with priority mail, unless we set some other duration.

    These are based on length and some setup changes. If you have a chopped RT body or emag body, the lower price would be used. Whatever body you want done, I would rather get a picture of it before hand. If you have a custom body I haven't worked on yet (like a Luke's stock class feed tube ), I'm willing to negotiate. I may need some dimensions from you to be sure I can handle some of the different bodies and I want to be sure you understand any areas that may have to be left smooth.

    The body has to be polished smooth already. It has to be stainless, not plated or coated. Also, I have been using Luke's vert feeds to start with because I can get right up to the feed neck. A power feed will keep me from getting to the body directly under the feed neck on top of the body and a hair underneath, leaving an unjeweled 'bald spot' that won't be very visible under elbows and loaders.

    High polished bodies are best because consistency in the surface makes it easy to see rough spots that cause a "wash" in the jeweling and pits which come out like jeweled pits. That said, a well done 1500 grit polish is a safe starting point. The finish is durable and personally, I think it looks better with the normal layer that forms on stainless. You can polish it with Brasso, but I like it 'dirty'.

    Here's what I'm talking about;






    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/uNdafydHdTI&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/uNdafydHdTI&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

    <a href="http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/data/1122/S5000770.JPG">
    <img src="http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/data/1122/S5000770.JPG" width="600" height="450"></img></a>
    Last edited by Spider-TW; 11-01-2010, 07:43 AM.
  • Whee McGee
    Back into Mags
    • Aug 2007
    • 711

    #2
    Good lord, is this possible on a nickel plate?!

    Comment

    • Spider-TW
      U R techno-literate!

      • Oct 2006
      • 3554

      #3
      Originally posted by Whee McGee
      Good lord, is this possible on a nickel plate?!
      I don't have that capability. [Correction] I have had the opportunity to work over several plated pieces that came out great. I have improved my technique and made some measurements that showed me where a good mark is compared to the thickness of plating.
      Last edited by Spider-TW; 06-01-2015, 11:00 AM.

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      • flyingpootang
        Magtechian with X disease

        • Dec 2005
        • 2276

        #4
        Spider, How much would it be for a Sydarm body and will you be able to jewel the whole body?....Thanks

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        • Spider-TW
          U R techno-literate!

          • Oct 2006
          • 3554

          #5
          Originally posted by flyingpootang
          Spider, How much would it be for a Sydarm body and will you be able to jewel the whole body?....Thanks
          Basically, I have a 5/16" diameter tool shaft that comes down vertically on each spot. When feednecks or tube get in the way I have to go around. You may be able to see a little of it around the feednecks on my pics. So I can do the body up to the feedtube, all along the sides.

          The other part is that I run a 3/8" all-thread rod thru the part for mounting. I don't remember how the gas system is mounted in the back of the sydarm, but it must come out (surely?). If I can get a path thru the feed tube, I can jewel it as well. Can you give me the outside diameter of the feed tube and its length? I don't think the length will be a problem, but I want to get an idea of any little pattern changes that might result from the smaller tube diameter.

          I would charge $50 for both tubes since it would be my first sydarm/feedtube. I actually have a 32 degrees stainless barrel that I will test on first this weekend and post up.

          Comment

          • Ruler_Mark
            AKAOG.ORG
            • Aug 2007
            • 2600

            #6
            would you do a classic valve?

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            • Spider-TW
              U R techno-literate!

              • Oct 2006
              • 3554

              #7
              Originally posted by Ruler_Mark
              would you do a classic valve?
              I presently don't have the setup for clamping end to end like that, but I am working on making some additional parts that would get me there. It would work nice on a valve.

              ***

              Valve work posted up!
              Last edited by Spider-TW; 04-25-2011, 07:44 AM.

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              • Ruler_Mark
                AKAOG.ORG
                • Aug 2007
                • 2600

                #8
                split between getting a classic RT and getting this or a minimag and do the body + valve

                Comment

                • SSP-SheiK
                  Formerly TaCticulMerderder
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 800

                  #9
                  thats pretty sweet!

                  are you only doing bodies? or could you do rails too?

                  Comment

                  • Spider-TW
                    U R techno-literate!

                    • Oct 2006
                    • 3554

                    #10
                    Originally posted by TaCticulMerderer18
                    thats pretty sweet!

                    are you only doing bodies? or could you do rails too?
                    Just stainless bodies right now. I'm working on a classic valve mounting. My setup is rotary for round (cylindrical) bodies.

                    I can do a raw polished ULE body, but I'm not sure about the durability. I have some play time with the stainless bodies and trust the finish to be worth the effort. With some work and some wet dry sandpaper, the jeweling can be removed from a stainless body. I've "erased" one before by re-polishing.

                    If I ever do aluminum, it will be on a case-by-case basis because it would be a more delicate finish. Stainless body finishes will last until you take it off or leave your mag sliding around in a tool box with some sand, even then it will look like a worn finish and not a ruined polish.

                    I may add flat surfaces in the future, but my initial intention was to provide a custom finish for classic AGD stainless.

                    Comment

                    • zondo
                      One of 8 bosses... again.

                      • Dec 2006
                      • 2245

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Spider-TW
                      Just stainless bodies right now. I'm working on a classic valve mounting. My setup is rotary for round (cylindrical) bodies.
                      Does this mean barrels as well?
                      Stay Classy, AO...
                      BEO: RIP / Topgun Paintball: RIP / Old MCB: RIP

                      Comment

                      • Smokeage
                        Registered User
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 69

                        #12
                        Originally posted by zondo
                        Does this mean barrels as well?
                        He said hes got a 32 degrees stainless barrel hes going to test something on, so I assume that's a yes.

                        My question is pretty much the same as his though ha ha.

                        Can you do that to a brass barrel?

                        Comment

                        • zondo
                          One of 8 bosses... again.

                          • Dec 2006
                          • 2245

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Smokeage
                          He said hes got a 32 degrees stainless barrel hes going to test something on, so I assume that's a yes.

                          My question is pretty much the same as his though ha ha.

                          Can you do that to a brass barrel?
                          Argh... totally missed that.
                          Stay Classy, AO...
                          BEO: RIP / Topgun Paintball: RIP / Old MCB: RIP

                          Comment

                          • Spider-TW
                            U R techno-literate!

                            • Oct 2006
                            • 3554

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Smokeage
                            He said hes got a 32 degrees stainless barrel hes going to test something on, so I assume that's a yes.

                            My question is pretty much the same as his though ha ha.

                            Can you do that to a brass barrel?
                            I have that barrel mounted up now. I've done the first few inches. The smaller diameter does change the pattern, but I think I have the technique figured out. I'll put up a pick of it later, after I've got a few more inches on it. The 14 in overall length is about all I can handle.

                            Brass would be pretty, but you would need to keep it waxed (even more than aluminum), since too much tarnish removal may polish the jeweling off eventually. The little tarnish that forms quickly should make the jeweling look deeper (a good thing).

                            **edit**

                            Stainless barrel pic is at the bottom of first post and is zoom-able. I can do barrels of that length or shorter. I can do feed tubes also.

                            I can also do VALVES now using that same setup. They will be just like the bodies, since they are the same diameter. I don't have one of my own yet, I kind of like my etching, although I was never a fan of the "Classic" label...

                            The valves (and barrels) have to be polished before I get them. I'm not sure if the jeweling would completely erase the laser etching on a valve or not. I would leave the assembly diagram untouched unless you wanted it removed.
                            Last edited by Spider-TW; 08-23-2009, 08:12 PM.

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                            • Ruler_Mark
                              AKAOG.ORG
                              • Aug 2007
                              • 2600

                              #15
                              can you do the crown point tips?

                              Comment

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