Questions on RobAGD's E-Mag to Warp & Revvy battery hack

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  • DoubleDutch
    Registered User
    • Oct 2002
    • 232

    #1

    Questions on RobAGD's E-Mag to Warp & Revvy battery hack

    I want to run my Warp and 12V Revvy off my E-Mag battery. I have found RobAGD's instructions (http://www.robagd.com/revy-hack/) on how to do this, but I had a few questions.

    1. Should I run 18V down to both the Warp and the Revvy, then use a regulator setup in each one to step down to 12V? Or can I just have the 12V regulator setup in the Revvy, then pull 12V off that in parallel and run it down to the Warp? Would there be any performance or current issues with that?

    2. In doing searches on the subject, I came across several posts that claimed you could not use the intellifeed cable with this setup, here is a post by shades:
    BIG WARNING
    If you use you E/X mag to power your hopper and/or warp via a power mod. I advise you NOT to use the intelifeed cord. I did this once. I lost the negetive(-) grnd powering the Warp.(the wire broke)
    The Warp then pulled the resulting current through the intelifeed wire and FRIED the output pin tha triggers the solenoid and the intelifeed. In short i HAD to Buy New electronics. Only a $200 mistake. It worked well before that though. Both my Warp and revy are running off my Emag but the intelifeed wire is gone. It still works great without it.

    I have the PTP Warp, where the vibration sensor is in the part that attaches the Warp to the grip. As I will be using Luke's rear mount, I would like to not have to use this external vibration sensor. Is there a way to place some electronic component (fuse?) inline with the intellifeed cable to prevent this from happening? Is there some other way to achieve my final result?

    3. Anyone have any experience with how many shots the battery lasts powering the E, Warp and Revvy in such a configuration? I have the standard 650 mAh battery.
    Last edited by DoubleDutch; 12-09-2009, 01:49 PM.
  • Ratt
    I Beta-tested your girl...
    • Apr 2002
    • 883

    #2
    My buddy and I talked about this, and we are both under the impression that running another wire from the battery, stepping it down with another 12v regulator, then feeding the warp with that is unnecessary. You should be able to tap 12v from the output of your voltage regulator (in parallel). My friend looked at the setup on RobAGD's site (for the first time), and had concerns about the capacitors. He wasn't sure that 100 pico farad capacitors would be enough to condition the voltage for 2 motors. I told him that my 12v regulator setup doesn't even have capacitors, and I don't have any problems at all. So, we both came to the conclusion that running another 18v wire and using another 12v regulator would just be creating another (unneccesary) circuit, and that you shouldn't have any problems tapping off the 12v.

    Disclaimer: I have a decent electronics background, but I am no expert. You should let some of the genius' on this forum weigh in on this before going forward.

    As far as the Intellifeed wire goes...I am at a loss. I may be reading too much into it, but it kinda sounds like he took the actual intellifeed wire, put one end at 18v, and the other end to the warp. If that is the case, then I assume he burnt out the wire (too much current going through it) b/c it was the wrong gauge. If I am not mistaken, the intellifeed wire is of a much thinner gauge than what needs to be used. In that case, all you need to do is use a larger gauge wire coming from your 18v...no need for a safety device (fuse).

    Comment

    • DoubleDutch
      Registered User
      • Oct 2002
      • 232

      #3

      Comment

      • Ratt
        I Beta-tested your girl...
        • Apr 2002
        • 883

        #4
        I was wrong...those are micro farad caps in the picture...not pico farad caps. I am not sure exactly what size caps are supposed to be used. I am sure someone here will chime in and tell us what size caps to use.

        Capacitors were used to reduce noise in the circuit. Apparently, some people were doing this mod (without caps), and once they applied power to the circuit, the revy or warp would start spinning, and wouldn't stop. It was determined that the constant spinning was a result of noise (or 'chatter') in the circuit, and placing caps in the circuit reduced the chatter. Now, I have a 12 volt mod that I use to run my warp. I do not have any caps on it, and I have no problems at all. BUT...I am not using my Emag battery to power the warp. I am using 2 9-volt batteries inside the warp. One of these days (hopefully sometime this week) I am going to wire my warp to run off my Emag battery, and hopefully I won't have any problems with chatter.

        Comment

        • DoubleDutch
          Registered User
          • Oct 2002
          • 232

          #5
          Any more opinions on the intellifeed cable frying the board in the case of a lost ground? What about grounding the Warp/Revvy to the warp mount using solid copper wire as extra insurance?

          Comment

          • DoubleDutch
            Registered User
            • Oct 2002
            • 232

            #6
            Ok, I wired up a 12V regulator with the capacitors and was reading the instructions again... and I am not sure the power going to the Revvy has to be 12V. It looks like the power wires are just spanning what the two 9V's would do in series? The 18V would then get regulated down to 12V on the board itself? The regulator is only for the Warp then? Any opinions on this?

            Comment

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