RT Classic Woes

[ghost271]

So I finally had a chance to get some air and put it on my newly acquired RT Classic. Leaks like a Mother F'er near the back between the body and the valve. The leak stops when I pull the trigger and fired fine otherwise. I thought it may have been the banjo bolt o-rings, and replaced all of those. When I reassembled it, it still leaks, but now when I hold the trigger down it fires full auto.

I have had ZERO luck on my recent automag journey and am getting ready to sell the lot of it. It would be nice to just buy a used gun that works reliably. Its been like buying a used car and having to drop thousands into just to get them running smoothly. When its all been said and done, it would have been better to have bought a new one.

Sorry for going on a bit of a rant. Im trying to hold back on how pissed I am. Im tired of spending money over and over again online to get parts and pieces to get these things running. My Xmag seems to be running well now. I'll try and take it out to the field tomorrow and put her through its paces.

Any help would be appreciated.

[slider30250]

Look at the exploded view of your valve and make sure that the on/off assembly is assembled correctly and make sure that all your O-rings are in the right place and not damaged.

[Ando]

I always change out all the orings when I get an old valve. I'm sure that will fix your problem(s). At the vary least, change out your on/off orings. Your rappid fire issue is a missing or damaged top on/off oring.

[El Camino]

Don't give up yet! My first Automag was a RT Classic, WITH A PROBLEM . But it had a unusual problem, the stem in the center of the bolt had backed out about 3/16". Buying used just teaches you how to fix your marker, but it dose get tiresome having to fix most everything you buy used. Once you do get it fixed you'll know the marker a lot better. Myself, I'm a glutton for punishment, I don't have as much fun with them, if I can't work on they. So don't sell them, someone here will always help you fix it.

[ghost271]

Just replaced the on/off o-rings and it still leaks. I did install the level 10 kit with the medium spring. It initially wouldn't fire until I turned it up about half a turn. Then it started to leak. Nothing out the barrel. Should I install the old bolt and spring and see if it leaks then ? It is still auto firing when the triggers held.

[ghost271]

Is it possible I have one of those leaking rails or bodies that some people speak of ?

[Ando]

If that's where it's leaking then yes. Tuna had noted that the banjo and rail have been updated.

Test something out. Try a different frame on it. See if it leaks.

[ghost271]

Unfortunately I dont have another frame, and I don't want to dump even more money into this thing.

[ghost271]

Did the soap test on the frame and there were no leaks that I saw. I replaced the orings on the regulator valve pin as well. I also put the original parts back in. Gun shoots fine and no longer goes full auto while holding the trigger back. Leak also stops while holding the trigger back now. I also put an oring around the hole where the twist lock pin goes into the body. Leak still occurs. I also replaced the power tube oring as well. If theres a leak down the barrel, I should feel it coming out the front of the bolt correct ?

[ghost271]

Well, I just got off the phone with Jeff at Ninja paintball and he talked me through a few more potential areas. As a last oring replacement, he said to try the Regulator nut o-ring. Still leaks like a faucet.

I have now replaced all the orings in the marker.

She may be going up for a clearance price sale soon.

[Thotograph]

What about the safety release valve in the reg piston guys? I think that could be at fault... especially when you described the lvl10 install and having to turn up velocity and then hearing the leak... sounds like it is letting the pressure escape. Odd though that it stops when you hold it back... as this usually suggests the leak to be in the powertube/front half etc., but maybe the rapid recharge is causing a pressure spike which releases the relief valve?

Don't give up, Classic mags are amazingly reliable guns, but they've also been around since the early to mid 90's. I think the one non-user serviceable part has let go and when you replace that it may very well be golden thereafter. Goodluck!

[ghost271]

What about the safety release valve in the reg piston guys? I think that could be at fault... especially when you described the lvl10 install and having to turn up velocity and then hearing the leak... sounds like it is letting the pressure escape. Odd though that it stops when you hold it back... as this usually suggests the leak to be in the powertube/front half etc., but maybe the rapid recharge is causing a pressure spike which releases the relief valve?

Don't give up, Classic mags are amazingly reliable guns, but they've also been around since the early to mid 90's. I think the one non-user serviceable part has let go and when you replace that it may very well be golden thereafter. Goodluck!

Sorry. I said Regulator Nut. It was in fact the Regulator Piston Assembly o-ring. I was looking at the exploded valve pic and got the two mixed up. I also went so far as to replace the o-rings on the Regulator Valve Pin Assembly. One of them was so dry and old, that it actually crumbled off in 4 or 5 pieces.

I am waiting to hear if the previous owner had filed the On/Off pin down. Perhaps if it was filed too far down that when the pressure reactivates the pin, the pin travels farther than usual until it rests on the Sear assembly. therefore no longer being in contact with the on/off o-ring ? But then I was thinking that it'd then be leaking down the barrel

edit * I should also point out that I turned after I replaced the Piston Assembly o-ring, the pressure was so low that the gun wouldn't even fire, but you could still hear the leaking.

Thanks for the replies and I appreciate the help.

[need4reebs]

rt woes

hey im at the point you are in my automag journey, i have a rt classic too and i think it might have a gremlin in it...haha? but just like everyone keeps saying dont give up, i bet you the previous owner filed the on/off a little to much, see if a friend will let you borrow theirs if possible or get one from agd if thats an option? or if you are able to find a new rail in the b/s/t area that might work too? hey if you do get it working will you explain what was wrong and how you fixed the problem? i will do the same cause it seems like once somebody finds out how to fix the problem they were having they just say thanks and go on there way! and those of us having the same problem and following the thread for answers dont know if it was a easy fix or not and just want to throw our marker out the window! good luck man!

[ghost271]

Most definitely. Previous owner said there were no leaks. The thing is, is that after (if) I buy a new rail (plus the Lvl 10 and repair kit) I'm at just under $400 for a gun that's almost 15 years old. For an extra hundred I could have bought a brand new ULE Custom. the problem with the whole assembly being inside the body, you can't pinpoint the leak. It sounds the loudest just above the trigger area.

[need4reebs]

Most definitely. Previous owner said there were no leaks. The thing is, is that after (if) I buy a new rail (plus the Lvl 10 and repair kit) I'm at just under $400 for a gun that's almost 15 years old. For an extra hundred I could have bought a brand new ULE Custom. the problem with the whole assembly being inside the body, you can't pinpoint the leak. It sounds the loudest just above the trigger area.

true that...the previous owner said the marker didnt leak, and would RT like a beast, but when i go to air it up, it either leaks or will not fire? i have it to the point of fine tuning, but it would be nice to have been able to shoot it by now, its been a couple of weeks now! i have 1 out of the 3 mags that i own working, the other 2 are ready to test so hopefully i can get them tested today and actually shooting paint..haha! well good luck with your RT!