TSB. One Warped Spyder

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I received my warp feed from the Wrath Of Tom.

Fortunatly, that Tom, Hes not a bad Guy.

All the little black feed adapter thingies are all sort of like screwed together to make room for shiping. Take them all apart.

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Assemble the feed adapter like so. The diverter should round balls into the verticle feed. For a Spyder the feed that comes with the standard Warp Adapter will work fine.

https://www.proteamdirect.com/warpfeedkits.html

Sells warp feed kits for other Guns. Including Spyders.

https://www.proteamdirect.com/warpfeedkits.html

Sells warp feed mounts and verticle adapters for for other Guns. Including Spyders.

This is a Standard Warp Feed From AGD. Spyders and Mags have a smaller feed than most guns because they are made of Shiny Metal.

I drilled a hole in teh mounting plate. It was a little off so I made it 1/8" bigger. Aluminum is easy to drill so dont be intimidated. The bigger holes is covered up by the drop forward.

If you have the afore mentioned kit or adapter you wont need to drill a hole.

This weekend I will need longer screws. For now I switched them around.

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There are various jumpers for the Warp Feed. Dont be too intimated.

If your using a gun without the intelilink. Just use the standard internal sensor. Make a note if you have something with a relay of the grounding. Otherwise disregard it. Connect the on Sensor Jumper. (mine already came connected.)

Turn the sensor pot up (to the right gently till it stops) and let the Warp Feed run a little bit. It sparks at first because of carbon and than the carbon wears off. Turn the sensor pot down (to the left) just below the point that it is not spining. (Repeat)

Put in one or two Dwell Jumpers. All the Jumpers on My Warp came set to the off position. I put in two. Dwell jumpers adjust the time the warp spins when it loads a ball. Adding Jumpers reduces spin time. If you are missing balls use 1 or 0 jumpers.

Use your nails and fingers to pull the jumpers out and move them.

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Put the O Rings on the end of your convoluted hose and force them in the feed adapters. You can put three O Rings on each end. There in a little Pastic bag with 2 screws. The two screws mount the plate to the Warp Feed. The Plate mounts to the bottom of your gun.

The Vertical Adapter for the Warp Feed Was too tight. I decided to loosen the Allen Nuts with a Metric Allen Wrench. It was then easier to fit the VA and tighten the Warp nuts.

If you have a SAE American Allen Wrench Kit that will work better. They sell Kits at Pep Boys but I dont have one since not many things are made in America.

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Heres a close up of the Verticle Adapter and the diverter.
It seem a little loose or short. So I am wondering if I can make one with PVC?

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Heres a photo shop shop image of what a longer feed adapter would look like. It would not stick out any more to reach down the neck further. I think would make the upper a little more stiffer.

The back of the warp feed. You just cram in your loader. I would like it if there was an another verticle adapter 3/4" ID 1" OD for the back. Than you could just stick a one inch Elbow on that and your hopper on top. It would raise the hopper about 1" - 2", which I think is nominal.

I plan to get some 3/4 PVC this weekend and see if I can make some VAs. If I am successfull I will mail some to Tom.

I would proabably order one if it was in the store for $5.

I also have other ideas for simple, cool Warp mods.

There are room for 2 9 volt batteries. All the warp info says more than 14 volts wikll short the board. The TSBs say it can accept more current but nor more voltage. If so it is probably possible to run 2 9 volt batteries in parallel but NOT IN SERIES.

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Tom said, the warp feed was dedicated to Bill Shatner. (Warp Speed).



Sorry about the picky stuff at the bottom. It seemed like small things that could be easily improved.

Thanks to Tom and everyone at AGD for the wonderfull Warp Feed. Hope I didnt butcher this thread or the warp too much.

[JT2002]

well , most people dont shoot fast enough to really take advantage of a higher voltage, and the hight voltage also makes teh warp more noisy while it runs. what i say it try this, havoc did the mod for me, but it is really very simple. the mod consists of installing an on/off switch which i think is a necessary upgrade because it saves ware on the battery snap wires. i pulled mine out 2 time with the stock setup. the mod also does something havoc ore some1 has dubbed "bigcell" basically 2 9v batts are wired in parallel (i think, i always mix up series and parallel) anyways, what this does for teh warp is it raises i think, amperage but not voltage i think. so what this higher amperage does is keep the voltage going to the warp at 9v, but since the amperage is higher, the warp never suffers from a lowering amperage which, in a stock warp, you could hear and see how after the warp runs for a few secs, its speed slows down a bit. but since theres double the amperage than before, the warp will not slow down for a while which is good becasuse it keeps it up to speed. so thats the ideal setup, on/off mod and bigcell. god its writing lab class all over again!

*edit * sorry lol, i meant to put this in warp feed thread, well its going there too.

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Well if thats all true, then there doesnt need to be a battery on the second connector. It can just hang empty.

Obviously if the second connector was left loose, to connect with some thing metal it would short out. Ive seen plastic covers that go on the ends of betteries could be put over the extra connector, a piece of heat shrink tubing or a piece of tape.

Ill have to keep my eyes out for those plastic 9 volt battery covers. They go on the end when not in use. I say just put that on the end of battery clip #2 when not in use.

In theory Voltage should stay 9 volts and Amperage should double by adding the second battery in parallel.

The switch sounds like a good idea too.

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I got the screws I needed today from Walmart for the drop. There excellent. I highly recommend them...


The screws are $1.41 for like 18.

They say .

Machine Screws.
#8-32 X 3/4

WIth Nuts, round head slotted.