I just got set up with an RT on/off, which people on this forum (as well as a few mag owner friends) told me would help get me sweetspotting easier than with my ULT.
My normal setup is with a ULT and an 800psi Crossfire reg, which manages 19bps over the chronograph when sweetspotting.
When I put the RT on/off in the valve, I get absolutely no sweet spot. None at all. I can not even fire a burst... not even two shots. All it really seems to have done is make the trigger pull several times heavier.
I have read that this is normal and in order to have it behave reactively I need to shorten the on/off pin. Is this true? I have a spare RT on/off so it's not the end of the world if I go beyond repair with one of the pins, but I would like an idea of how slowly I should trim it down, using what (file, sandpaper, dremel) etc. and what exactly it would achieve.
Ideally, I would want a very effortless sweet-spot to be achievable, preferably in the 13bps range. Any help would be appreciated, thanks :)
My normal setup is with a ULT and an 800psi Crossfire reg, which manages 19bps over the chronograph when sweetspotting.
When I put the RT on/off in the valve, I get absolutely no sweet spot. None at all. I can not even fire a burst... not even two shots. All it really seems to have done is make the trigger pull several times heavier.
I have read that this is normal and in order to have it behave reactively I need to shorten the on/off pin. Is this true? I have a spare RT on/off so it's not the end of the world if I go beyond repair with one of the pins, but I would like an idea of how slowly I should trim it down, using what (file, sandpaper, dremel) etc. and what exactly it would achieve.
Ideally, I would want a very effortless sweet-spot to be achievable, preferably in the 13bps range. Any help would be appreciated, thanks :)

Google "I'll be your huckleberry shingo" and you will find the answers! reactivity would be the LEAST of my worries. Think, light and fast!







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