I just got set up with an RT on/off, which people on this forum (as well as a few mag owner friends) told me would help get me sweetspotting easier than with my ULT.
My normal setup is with a ULT and an 800psi Crossfire reg, which manages 19bps over the chronograph when sweetspotting.
When I put the RT on/off in the valve, I get absolutely no sweet spot. None at all. I can not even fire a burst... not even two shots. All it really seems to have done is make the trigger pull several times heavier.
I have read that this is normal and in order to have it behave reactively I need to shorten the on/off pin. Is this true? I have a spare RT on/off so it's not the end of the world if I go beyond repair with one of the pins, but I would like an idea of how slowly I should trim it down, using what (file, sandpaper, dremel) etc. and what exactly it would achieve.
Ideally, I would want a very effortless sweet-spot to be achievable, preferably in the 13bps range. Any help would be appreciated, thanks
My normal setup is with a ULT and an 800psi Crossfire reg, which manages 19bps over the chronograph when sweetspotting.
When I put the RT on/off in the valve, I get absolutely no sweet spot. None at all. I can not even fire a burst... not even two shots. All it really seems to have done is make the trigger pull several times heavier.
I have read that this is normal and in order to have it behave reactively I need to shorten the on/off pin. Is this true? I have a spare RT on/off so it's not the end of the world if I go beyond repair with one of the pins, but I would like an idea of how slowly I should trim it down, using what (file, sandpaper, dremel) etc. and what exactly it would achieve.
Ideally, I would want a very effortless sweet-spot to be achievable, preferably in the 13bps range. Any help would be appreciated, thanks

Google "I'll be your huckleberry shingo" and you will find the answers! reactivity would be the LEAST of my worries. Think, light and fast!







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