It's a mod so that you can tell when the warp is turned on by the led lightQuote:
Originally Posted by Lt. Chicken
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It's a mod so that you can tell when the warp is turned on by the led lightQuote:
Originally Posted by Lt. Chicken
http://img109.echo.cx/img109/6629/ledmod6yw.png
Is this what the mod should look like?
http://img109.echo.cx/img109/6629/ledmod6yw.png
Is this what the mod should look like?
no. the led should be in series with the board not parlell with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt. Chicken
-----------'|'|-------------e--------board
| |
--------------------- \---------------|
something like that.
exactly. though I'm pretty sure with the lead running through the LED, not with the LED tapped into to places.
as he said, you have to make sure u cut the wire and solder the led in. also, make sure u put it in the right way. look on the box for which lead is positive. if you don't, you will burn the led out.
Hey, fellas
I am looking for help with my Warp Feed. I am not sure if anyone can help but any recommendations would be nice. :)
My Warp feed is hooked up to a smart parts impulse :headbang: . I used my warp feed 3 or 4 times and the red battery connection fell out of the solder on the board :eek: so I re soldered it. When I plug my impulse in to the Warp feed (using the Intelli port) the wheel will only spin for a brief second and stop. :confused: It use to spin an entire rotation with every trigger pull but I can't get it to do it since I fixed the battery connection. However when I use the manual button, it will spin correctly. I haven't touched the dwell settings and cant figure out what the problem is. Is there anyway to bypass the dwell settings? Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks
Hi. Does anyone know where to put the 100uf capacitor to filter out the noise? My warp doesn't stop spinning when I put in over 9v. Is this the right capacitor? 100uf Capacitor
When I wire it like the picture in the bottom, my warp won't work at all. When I check the output voltage with a multitester, it shows 12, 11.8, 11.7, 11.4, 11, 10.8, etc until the voltage drops down to nearly nothing. This all happens in a matter of seconds. Any help about adding the capacitor is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...her1s/warp.jpg
Does anyone know if the shells from a PTP warp will work with AGD warp internals? I really need a pair of smoke shells and i got an offer for a pair PTP shells.
Thanks in advance.
/ Kenneth
i have mine set up with intellifeed, 12 volt mod, and a simple on/off switch. idk what the deal is, but my 2 batteries dont last more than a week. i fired 50 shots with it, turned it off and put it in my bag. its spinning at probably 1/3rd the speed that it was with the batteries new.
is this what i should expect? cause i'm definately gonna ditch it if this is what i paid 80 bucks for.
If your on/off switch is connected right, you shouldn't be having that problem. Check your setupQuote:
Originally Posted by MaLfUnCtIoN
I have a question abiut the warp. i have a 9vt revvy to mount on the warp im getting, but what happens when the revvy cant keep up with the warp. will the warp still feed without chops or anything. i can walk my spyder pretty fast, faster than auto. :shooting:
will the warp still feed properly? :confused:
It will only stop feeding properly if you CAN outshoot the warp and the discs become empty.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRSP8nt
with a warp it almost doesnt matter how fast you can shoot, the warp can keep up...I have a rocker spyder w/acs and warp w/revi on top, i can walk it at about 20 for a couple of seconds and about 32 for about a blink of an eye and the warp always keeps up...just dont let the batteries too low :dance:
I cannot get the warp feed to work when I shoot it on my mag. I am trying to get it working without an intelliframe. Where do I put the jumpers so I can get the warp to work on my mag? Do I have to do anything else to the warpfeed to get it to work?
the jumpers should already be in the correct place, have you tride batteries....check wires to the board :dance:
What is the longest length of tubing that a warp feed will reliably push paint through?
I have anidea for a hopper setup and I am wondering if a warp feed will do the job of pushing the paint throught the tube, I am thinking that the tube length would be in the neighborhood of 30" or more with about 18 of that being straight up vertical.
Any thoughts out there?
I dont know if this has been asked before but the 12V mod link doesnt work for me. i was just wondering if i could just sotter another battery connector on adn be done or is there more to it than that??
again sorry if this has been asked many times
You can't just solder two batteries together. You can't send more than 12V to the board or you will fry it. Several people offer the mod as a kit. I know that Luke is one of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm555
can i put a warp feed on my standard feed automag or do i need a new body?
Do you have to use the Warp on an electronic marker? I'm thinking about putting one on my Tippmann.
No, it's sound activated so go ahead and put one on your tippmann.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettski
Sound activated?
it's more vibration than sound. if you tap on it the warp will spin. if you clap/snap near it, it won't spin. a tipmann will work with the warp.
I recently purchased an automag Rt, it is left feed. I read the manuel on the warp drives says they may not work well with left feed, can I do anything about this? Second is it possible to have a left feed and mount the Warp on the left side as well? Sorry probably a dumb question, but i'm new to the mag world.
By left feed to you mean left handed? If so I am left handed and my warp works just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by phizz
HOw would i go about mounting a warp on my '96 Right Feed Autococker?
I just recived mine for my ION and I cant for the life ofme figure out how this is suposed to go together. I know how to mount the feed, but the hose looks like im going to need either some sort of adapter or maybe I can just wrap some electric tape around it, and my revvy dosnet seem like its going to fit either. Am I missing something, or maybe just slow or what?
Take the 90* adapter and saw the part that sinches down off of it. That part goes into your feedneck. Then the double female attaches to that.
Can one seperate the battery housing from the warp drive part, like this...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...e/141c1565.jpg
I know it would be tricky, but is it possible?
Very cool idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by famousgamer
There are two possible problems that I see with that.
1. The first turn the balls need to make. That's a pretty sharp turn you have them making. It looks like more then 90 degrees coming right out of the warp. I once tried using two powerfeed elbows on my e-cocker to get rid of some hose. The warp didn't have enough force to reliably push the balls through both turns.
2. The feed into the warp looks like it might jam up. That's a wierd angle to feed and without any agitator you'd probably need to shake it alot.
Maybe placing the warp unit more verticly? Running external battery like that shouldn't be a problem.
Running a remote battery isn't the problem with that setup. It's more what the guy above me had to comment about.Quote:
Originally Posted by famousgamer
I DO like the concept though. Tell me how it works out!
Going to be hooking a self made Intellifeed harness to my SP-8 this weekend.
I need to get the hopper off the top of that beast. And I've been missing my old warp setup.
Where there's a will, there's a way my friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by famousgamer
I just hooked my warp back up to my Tippmann 98e. It was a great setup that worked before, but now when I plug the intellifeed wire into the warp, the solenoid on the gun stops firing (but the warp feeds properly). Any ideas?
Sweet idea with that hopper/stock thing too. :clap:
So no one has any idea whats wrong??
I really want this to work for next Saturday.
Here's a link to my question/development regarding the warpfeed. I read the first 8-9 pages of this sticky to get answers...but reading through 23 pages is tough. Hopefully my answer isn't somewhere in page 9-23. I love stickys but the one problem is finding an answer to specific questions when the stickys get too large.
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...26#post2104326
ive been running a mech mag for years now and i finnaly broke down and got a electronic marker, (Impulse) Im keeping my warp and would like to know how to connect the impulse board into the warp feed...
Still no answers? :( :(