Hurray for Newbie questions! Experts wanted.

[Boltboy]

Well, I dont really consider myself a n00bie, but when it comes to Automags I am clueless. I havnt played paintball in over 3 years, though I was pretty hardcore into it before I quit. I'm jumping back in and decided I want an 68automag this time around. So... here goes.

- What parts will I need to convert my standard body into being able to use a dropfoward system? I see hoses, regulators, forgrips, and bottom lines but am I missing anything else? I wouldnt even know where to begin on hooking it all up, though i could figure this out im sure.

- What are the seperate "major" pieces of an automag? dont want to buy the standard body and turn around and upgrade it the next day with a trigger frame (I like the intelliframe) and body. I'm currently looking at the intelliframe, black teflon body, and Lvl10 kit. Is that all I would essentially NEED or am I missing something big here? I mean, it WILL save me a lot of money to just buy the parts I want seperately like this right? Theres nothing I see on the standard body that these 3 parts dont include.

- What is the "best" type of nitro to run off an automag? Low pressure, high pressure? Do I sound stupid? This is all new to me =D I want the best bang for buck system, and I want a smaller compact tank since im going for as light and compact as possible. Currently looking at crossfire, though, they may be terrible for all I know:
http://store6.yimg.com/I/actionvillage_1780_153259356

- Are there any specific barrels that run particularly well off an automag? I know for the 3 spiders I have run in the past I never found a better shooting barrel than All American. But for this gun I'm looking at something like the 10" DYE Ultralight or All American Freak 10".

Thats about it. If I seem confused about anything else or you guys have any suggestions please let me know. I appreciate it!

Boltboy

[DeerChaser]

Go to Airgun.com and buy a RT ULE Cutom. It's the best deal out there.

[Tunaman]

Actually, to build you the gun you want would be the best solution. No sense in purchasing stuff you arent gonna use or want. The 68 automag has come a long way in three years. All the info you need is right here in these forums or by asking questions. Look me up when you are ready. I can build you a Custom Mag any way you like.

[Branchvillian]

I second building your own custom RT ULE Custom off of the airgun.com store. I'm thinking of saving some money and buying one.

[tonybhall]

Boltboy,

Check out the Custom ULE RT PRO that AGD is selling at the AGD online store site. It comes standard with the X-Valve, level 10, bottom line and hoses as well as a barrel for just $399.00. For $20.00 more you can upgrade to any ULE Body, for $19.00 more you can upgrade to the ULE Trigger pull kit. For $95.00 more you can add the intelliframe. And to top it all off, it comes factory assembled and tuned. You can't beat this deal. Add it up. It would cost you $800.00 to buy all this and build it yourself. My whole team uses them and we love them.

Bryan
Team Mag Daddies

[GT]

IF you like to build your own mag check the link below. Although the RTP is a great deal, I, am not a big fan of the rail foregrip setup....

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...924#post920924

[Boltboy]

Wait, those are custom automag RTS(!?) starting at $400? Hot damn. Now all I have to do is sell my old gun! =D

By the way, if any of you get a chance please let me know what you think about the tanks (now, I guess more specifically, off an RT) and barrels.

EDIT:
Well, been looking through this and its opened up a whole new can o' confusion =D

- What are the differences between ULE vertical body (I assume no powerfeed?), warp right, and warp left main bodies? Im guesing warpfeed is the new system with the feeder on the side? I hope thats not needed badly, b/c I wouldtn like that at all =D

-Is the single trigger on this ULE body really only 15ounces with trigger pull kit? If thats the case, i'm fine with a single trigger.

-AGD will install everything and test it before sending it to me correct? So it will come fully assembled w/ ULE trigger pull kit and run correctly from the get go?

- I will still need a dropforward setup going, so, what pieces will I need additionally that this does not come with? I see that it has a bottomline setup, so I dont know what this changes or how I would hook up the dropfoward system.

Thanks, and sorry for the mass questions. Its your guys fault for showing me this link!

[smilestyler]

Originally posted by Boltboy


EDIT:
Well, been looking through this and its opened up a whole new can o' confusion =D



-AGD will install everything and test it before sending it to me correct? So it will come fully assembled w/ ULE trigger pull kit and run correctly from the get go?

You will probably have to tune in the LX bolt and ULE trigger kit again after the initial break in period, but otherwise it should work out of the box.

[phantomhitman]

about 5 months ago i stepped into this forum asking the same thigns you ask. i stepped away from paintball about 4 years ago and when i got back into things had changed drastically.
if you buy the new rt from agd it is a great deal. you will prob have to tune the level 10 in as stated before, as well as add your hopper and nitro tank and that should be it. the vertical bodies, are....well....vertical. the warp bodies are made specifically for warp feeds which agd also makes. they have constant pressure on them to allow for faster feeding. the dropforward question now. you will just need to buy a drop, hoses to run the nitro from the tank to the valve, fittings for the tank and for the valve, and probably and a asa to screw the tank into (it attaches to the drop).
i hope that helps.

[NeilS300]

Hey this is about the nitrogen tank you want. I have a crossfire and I really like it. All my friends have it also. Its a good tank and not very expensive compared to other tanks. That link with the tank on it is the wrong tank. That is low pressure and you need high pressure for a mag. You can just get the high pressure version that tank. But any way I would recommend a crossfire. Crossfire also has good customer service. One time I messed the threads up on the tank so I sent it in to them. They put on a new bonnet and gave me a magazine at no charge.

[Boltboy]

I'm still pretty lost on this whole drop foward setup. With the RT, I get the bottom line air (with a hose I can already use, right?). So how would I go about hooking a drop forward up comfortably? I'm looking for as close and compact (while not in the way) of a setup that I can get. Would going with a gas through stock help accomplish this? I see that a lot on these forums.

Sorry, if anyone cares to connect the dots for me on what goes where and what hose hooks up to what, etc. Id appreciate it =D

EDIT: and damn, I just noticed they are out of stock and backordering the RT mags. Are these a special that will end soon? Plz say no =(

[tonybhall]

Boltboy,

Hey, as a ULE RT PRO owner, I can answer most of your questions.

The deal comes with a bottom line already set up for you. The hose is Stainless Steal and runs from the valve to the bottomline ASA. There are a couple of problems with that. If you will look at the picture on the AGD store site you will notice the hose is made to curve in a big arch down to the ASA. It is a pretty long hose so you should be ok to attach a drop forward and use it but, this will move the hose forward and it may get in the way of your front grip. Another problem that you may have is that the front grip and the bracket that it attaches to drop pretty low. When you get a drop, make sure it will fit or at least drop low enough to miss the front grip. By the way, the front grip on the RT is a gas through. They just don't set it up for you but you can if you want.

Here is the set up that I suggest. Wait till you get the marker to order a drop so you can make sure you get the right size. Put on a drop and run two gas lines. Run one line from the valve to the top of the gas-through front grip. Then using the gas through, run a line fron the bottom of the front grip to the Drop and ASA. I would also put a quick disconnect at the valve for easier take down.

The Custom deal is back-ordered because it is such a great deal. From what I have heard they keep running out of individual parts and have to wait till they get more in. I think they are out of barrels right now. I have been told by people at AGD that this is not a limited time offer.

BTW, feel free to e-mail or PM me if you need more specifics.

[moballs]

i have the best soultion to your drop forward confusion:

you will need: a drop forward, loc-tite or teflon tape, 2 macroline fittings(90* swivel), a macroline kit(comes with 2 fittings, and three pieces of macroline:red, blue, and black). the other two fitting are available at your local shop for like three bucks each(you will have a total of four fittings).
i recomend that you buy a phsychoballistics bullet drop for a few reasons: its big enough to move your tank pretty far forward and out of the way, it comes in lots of colors to match your gun, and it comes with an on/off ASA already installed on it and there only like $37.99 (and that beats buyin a $25 drop and a $20 ASA)
http://paintballgateway.com/psbabudrfow.html

setting it up is easier than selecting the color you want.
the first step is to remove the stock bottom-line:
you just need an adjustable wrench and an allen wrench set now just remove the fitting from the valve and the remove the stock ASA and hose.
the next step is to install the drop forward(it is drilled for both standard and spyder holes so use the middle holes)just drop the stock screws through the holes and tighten into the bottom of the trigger frame.
now its time to dry fit the fittings and lines:
screw a fitting into the valve, the top of the forgrip, the bottom of the forgrip, and the ASA on the drop. only tighten them a little past finger tight(they will have come off for teflon or loc-titeafter fitting the lines)
now that the fittings are in there places pick what color hose you will use
now mark on the hose from the fitting on the drop to the fitting on the bottom of the forgrip and cut with a straight edge razor blade **be shure to have enough to have a nice sloping arc in the line** then the line just pushes into the fittings
now do the same for the top of the grip to the valve
**important** MAKE SHURE THAT WHEN YOU GO FROM THE TOP OF THE GRIP TO THE VALVE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH ARC TO BE CLEAR OF YOUR HANDS WHILE SHOOTING OF IT WILL REALLY GET IN THE WAY
now that everything fits you will need to take out all the fittings and apply a little loc-tite or teflon tape to the threads to prevent leaks. now just snug down all the fittings and push in the lines and your ready to get out there and shoot with your great looking drop setup

happy shooting

[Boltboy]

Awesome. Thank you very much guys.

[personman]

On the tanks, my personal preference is crossfire. I have been using their tanks for 2-3 years now and havent had a single problem. Not one! I love them to death!!

[Boltboy]

Hey, I noticed you live in Atlanta. I dont suppose you have ever played at the Paintball Atlantas down there? I ref'ed for about a year on those fields when I was still living there.

[personman]

Yeah I've played there before..
My first game was at the indoor one, but they closed that one and Georgia Paintball took over, and now its an awesome field. The one up in the middle of nowhere () is still open but I never go there because the prices are high and woods ball isnt my thing.

[Boltboy]

Oh yeah, and about the drop foward system. Are there any spots where I should install a gauge other than the one attached to the regulator (that does come w/ the crossfire nitros, correct?)

[personman]

A gauge should come with the crossfire system, that tells you how much pressure you have left in the tank. Another gauge on the bottom line isnt needed unless you get an adjustable tank. Then that gauge would tell you how much pressure was going into your gun.
When buying a crossfire tank, make sure you get a High pressure output tank (usually they range from 700-850 psi output). If you don't, the mag wont work. It needs this kind of input pressure

So to answer your question, no, you dont need any extra gauges (unless you want to make your gun look like something out of a sci fi movie )

[Boltboy]

thx. I just found out that my evo cocker I THOUGHT would appraise around $500 all together, is really closer to $250 now a days. At least, thats what a member told me on this forum.

So hopefully that doesnt screw up my plan =D I cant really put out a lot more cash than I make on my gun, so i might have to set my sites a little lower than I expected. 68Classic(no mods) here I come again!

=D