I was thinking for the 3 inch chunk to do just the front half. And it may be. Never priced solid bar in the stuff. The whole point of that was a blanket. Material is expensive! Let alone the guys development time. And production time. I would venture to say making a mag trigger frame is easier work than the valve. Less spec you have to work with.
I actually sat and swapped around parts. For MY application, it is only a weight savings of 3 ozs or so. For anyone else wanting to do a similiar capped valve, external reg setup it is a total saving of about 9.1oz. So just over 1/2 a pound*.
*Based on the setup I have pictured earlier -3 ozs vs removing the reg and adding a foregrip and putting a full SS Classic valve on the marker.
FWIW:
If you commission another run of caps, please put a 1/8 NPT hole on the back for a gauge.
"Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.
Actually, I am wondering if for people wanting to use it in a capped setup if there isn't a cheaper way to machine this without having to make a "cap"? Any input Jay?
Once again.... I said this when XMT said "they make aluminum regs so I dont need to make them, people can find them all over for cheap". ok, where? how long do I wait for a used one... does that make sense?
You are saying the exact same thing about reg caps... They "were" made, in the past. People now own those caps, and probably use and wont sell them... but they are around, so find me a handful, or 50 to sell with these...
This whole threads been built around assumptions
Can the caps be made smooth? Basically like there is no transition from the valve to the cap, I like the gauge look too.
Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-20-2013 at 02:54 PM.
Last edited by OPBN; 03-20-2013 at 03:18 PM.
Only issue with my way is no gauge on the back. I would love to have one with a classic rt banjo bolt fitting for a project I've been thinking about for a one off light stream lined automag. This would save me from putting a classic valve in a mill at work. So I am interested in this project as a hole.
How would this effect input pressure. Would we still need over 800 psi? And why would we need it? I don't know exactly how everything works I just know that it does.
I'm not an airsmith, so I don't really know if it would or not. There is some open area inside the cap. I wasnt sure if this acted like a volume chamber. There is some formula for figuring this out. Either way, it wouldn't think it would require that much higher input. But I really don't know. My thinking that you already have the are between the VASA and valve and since the center air passage is now 1/8" instead of the 1/16 or so that it is now, it would make up for any volume lost. Currently my setup is requiring about 575 psi or so from the inline reg to get FPS in the proper range.
Still need 600-650 psi to properly work the on off, that's what I was getting at earlier with regs being good or not... most only go to 400-500 psi (CP, dye)
What I have is a older AKA Sidewinder. An AKA 2K+ I beleive will work as well. Has to be the "+". On the pump pictured I am using a Bob Long reg. I think its a Torpedo, but it looks different than the other ones I have seen. But basically, yeah you would need a 650-700psi output regulator.
Well if it was a strait through design there wouldn't be anywhere for one. But if it still had a side port for the fitting then you could still have the gauge on the back. Or as I would like. A banjo bolt. Convert a newer rt rail to be gas through. And still have a gauge on the back.
The output of any regulator, valve mounted or forgrip, needs to be high enough to charge the front chamber with the pressure you need to operate your particular setup at the desired velocity. If you run a heavily ported barrel with a short control bore and a stiff level 10 bolt setup, that pressure could be fairly high (550psi or more). You would still need 800psi or more feeding the regulator that is feeding the modified regulator-less AGD valve.
The main problem here is that some tournament operators are confusing retro valves with reactive valves. Yes, retro valves can be made to be reactive, but so can almost any other marker on the market. If it wasn't for the general ignorance of the tournament operators, then any retro valve that was set up for normal 1 shot per pull operation could be used at any field at any time. Luckily, it is only a small number of fields that hold this point of view. Unfortunately, you only hear about the few that do which further propagates the negative point of view.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Oh you are talking about getting rid of the side input? Yeah, no thanks on that. I would still want a side input. I was thinking just boring that through so that it hit the center passage which would now be 1/8" or so and just using a gauge or plug to plug up the back.