Which spring is supposed to be longer or softer on paint the one that looks as thought the last coil is cut or the other one? Its a close call
Which spring is supposed to be longer or softer on paint the one that looks as thought the last coil is cut or the other one? Its a close call
2k2 Tricked Impy
the longer the spring the softer on paint(but slightly worse on gas)
the cut spring is the mid spring and is more than soft enough for any paint.(use the cut side on bolt)
I'm chopping with the cut spring so I'm going totry the next
as stated before it's probably your nubbins, have you checked them? also, the biggest carrier that doesnt leak will be the softest, dont do the one size smaller deal.
Ok guys I have read this entire thread and only found a couple of posts regarding my subject and they weren't very much help. I have an Emag with the Level 10 which has had 8500 rounds through it and no breaks. I use a 88/4500 Max Flow system with macro line to the marker. What I would like to know is what is everyone using to bleed the air from their systems prior to maintenance? I have heard of using slide checks then read you don't need one so I am looking for the real skinny from the experts. I currently just pop the macro after I get as much air out of the bolt as possible. I am hoping someone will have a better setup or idea. Thanks before hand for the info.
Havoc I checked my nubbin and it is plastic and it appear to be fine. It is very ... "floppy" sorry hard word choice. Like it feels very flimsy or something I don't know if that is normal or not.
I got my level 10 in the mail and attempted to install it. I followed the directions from airgun. I got the carrier #1 to work for a little bit. Alot of my attempts where with carrier #1. I would get it to work fine then i would shoot it about 4 times then it would full out leak out the front. After failing i look at carrier#1 and it had several dings scratchs and dents. But i tryied it agian and it shoot but with just the slightest leak. And carrier #1 was too tight and would fire just held air in the bolt so when i unscrewed it Boom!!! It was umm sure why not "funny". Um now i have ordered and new number 1 carrier. Also i had noticed that the new power tip was just covered in deep grooves on the in side. Also when i tried to slide the bost back in forward on the power tip it took lots of force and wasnt smooth the say the least. Thanks!
sorry carrier .5 was too small
and .5 WOULDNT fire
sorry im dumb but i was trying to slide the BOLT
Just fiddle with it got it to work YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok I'm curious as to how others have their Retrovalves setup with level 10. I went to the next smaller carrier and it worked for another 50 or so shots then I have a leak until I push the trigger against the sear, then it stops, after a i fire it does it again. What can I do? I believe I have 2 shims and am at one carrier smaller then AGD's instructions said. I still don't know how to identify the carrier #'s either.
Sorry, I'm old
TheDuelist that's pretty much it, shoot as much as possible, play with the bolt to squeeze some more air out, you'll end up with about 300-400psi left, after that I just pop off the q/d. By design that's just how it works, the o'ring acts like a cork and just holds pressure. If it bugs you, just buy a pro-connect. DO NOT try and bleed extra pressure by loosening the field strip screw.
ChillinDaMost87 what type of barrel are you using? once the nubbin is in, the flat part that extends towards the outside of the barrel should be flush with the barrel. If the groove is too deep(like on some aftermarket barrels) then the nubbin wont have anything to push up against making it very weak.
RoadDawg every dot is a half, every line is a whole. start from no dots and no lines = the 0. carrier(then .5,1.0,1.5,2.0,2.5,etc.). which size are you using? what's your input pressure? you havent messed with your trigger rod have you? what kind of trigger frame?
I actually eliminated the leak last night. I removed 2 shims, went one carrier smaller, and went to the shorter spring. Seems to work fine right now anyway. I'm not sure of the carrier # but to answer the other questions. Benchy 2x, No I haven't touched the trigger rod, and my input pressure is preset at 800.
i got my lvl ten working nicely with the medium spring, and i can put my finger in there and it bounces off, but when i hold my trigger down for a while, it starts sputtering. The bolt goes back and forth trhe the littlest bit, and little bursts oh air come out. Any idea what that it, and how i can fix it? thanks.
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studley192 Are you sure that's a Level 10 problem? Could be an on/off or trigger rod length problem. Could you give some details of your marker? have you adjusted the rod length? what's your input?
no, i havent messed with anything besides what was neccesary to put in the lvl 10. Before i put it in, it didnt do this, after, it shoots fine, but does this. It might be the on -off, but i didnt do anything to it. Any idea how i can fix it? its not like its a real problem, im just have to have stuff perfect
I've got it going pretty nice but one thing. If Move my barrel around it leaks just the slightest bit down the barrel. Thats the only time. Should I go another size smaller on the carrier or no? Right now I am at the one ring and dot carrier.
No matter which carrier I use it always leaks out the litte side hole or the back of the valve. Tried em all, tried all the springs, all the shims, I'm getting a little perturbed. I've started from the begining of the directions many many many times. This is my Third DAY working with the x-valve(lvl 10). How long was installation supposed to take? Am I just stupid? HELP!
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14" Tear Drop
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KAPP Drop Zone II
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i have recently put a LX in my mag. i am using the 2.5 carrier, and the smallest spring yet every time i try to get to adjust above 250 it only vents out the back. what could be wrong
any help would be greately appreciated
studley192 Your input pressure?
ChillinDaMost87 Try the 1.0, see if that works for ya.
Hemorrhage Make sure nothing is missing in the valve and try to oil it up a bit. Since it's new, it may need some working in.
knssabo Make sure the kit is installed properly. Make sure the bolt fits the body. You might try a new reg. piston.
input presure is 700-800 psi, the mag shoots at a much lower velocity settingwith the normal internals and i have never had a problem with the reg piston. i was told that i might need to get a adjustable tank to turn the press. down. is that really what i need to do. or do i need to increase the preasure to the gun?
I have:
Automag RT (old kind)
level 10 kit
Problem:
At first, after much heartbreak and headache, I got the thing to shoot with a 1.5 carrier, 1 shim and the long unclipped spring. However, the trigger pull was like dragging your leg through molasses!! Also, it seemed as if it could not keep up with my finger. From what I have read, I switched to the short spring that came in the LX kit. Trigger pull is much better. However, before and after changing to the short spring, I would hear a very quiet hiss after each trigger pull. Turned out a very small amount of air was coming out of the back of the gun, where the hole for velocity adjustment is. I suspect the reg piston? Can anybody please explain this? Also, with the short spring, the bolt seems to "hit" a lot harder (finger was used to measure this ). Would switching to the long clipped spring provide a good medium inbetween the short and unclipped long spring?
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PLease help, i just bought a RT pro that came with a lvl 10 mod installed. When i use the stock barrel i dont have any problems but when i use the freak barrel i have the gun wont fire. The trigger just wobbles back and forth. I have to unscrew the tank and then screw it back in to recock the gun, then it will only fire once or twice then the problem happens again. please help, thank you. Hangover247
this might not be the right place but i want to thank mr kaye and the folks that work this thread. i sponsor 2 five man teams who all shoot mags. that's 12 guns (including the alternates) and to say the least it has been an interesting month installing 12 level 10's.
some advice to anyone that might be thinking about posting a problem/question. i was able to find every answer to my questions by scrolling through this thread. it's all here folks.
thanks again for a great thread.
mick
t-square paintball
jacksonville arkansas
Here's my problem:
I was out playing today and I was choping all day. When I talked to one of the techs from the field he told me that I should go to the cut spring on my LvL 10. When I put in the cut spring, my RTP wouldn't fire. So I tried the other long spring and it did the same thing. What do I do to get it to fire?
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knssabo - get a new reg. piston.
SuperBeast - use the cut spring(cut side on bolt) and when swtich springs, you must rechrono.
hangover247 - take off the barrel and remove the valve. Check to see how the bolt fits inside the barrel.
t-square - thanks for commenting! and yes, most if not all the info is here, just read. As for you and your teams - you MUST get them here on AO and post some pics for the rest of AO to see. what do they play? how are they doing?
AutomagRT1483 - did you try turning up your velocity when going to the longer springs? what's your input pressure?
It worked after I turned up the velocity, thanks.
No carriers work, all vent out either back hole or side hole of the valve (x-valve)at all veloticty settings. My velocity adjuster thing is on the verge of being stripped it seems like and I've gone through 2SCUBA tanks of air to try to fix this bugger. Any ideas??? HELP!
I have a hyperframe, the on/off pin is just pressureized and wont fire. When i installed the level 10 on my other mag with a benchi, it did the same thing: when i pulled the trigger the sear pin was pressureized but it did not fire. I have a 1.5 carrier, 2 shimes, and the medium spring.
Last edited by GhillieGuy; 03-14-2003 at 11:14 PM.