Florida peeps...step up!!

[RRfireblade]

Well looky here.


Let's see , well best as I can tell that frame has been milled in a few dimensions for some reason , that may be issue number one.

For starters what valve and rail are you going to use ? What gun did they come from ?

[Jim888]

Well looky here.


Let's see , well best as I can tell that frame has been milled in a few dimensions for some reason , that may be issue number one.

For starters what valve and rail are you going to use ? What gun did they come from ?

well I was planning on using a classic valve and I think its a classic rail...kind of a left overs gun

[RRfireblade]

If it's all in stock config , the classic 'should' at least work up to a reasable ROF with the stock un modded on/off.

I can't really tell but the top of the frame looks like I't been cut down so it's hard to say what that may have done to it.

The ULT on/off would surley help but tuning it to a classic valve is sometimes tedious. Other option of course is an RT or X valve w/ the ULT but I'd try and get it atl east close with the classic valve before I dropped more cash in it.

What happens when assembled as it is now ?

[Jim888]

If it's all in stock config , the classic 'should' at least work up to a reasable ROF with the stock un modded on/off.

I can't really tell but the top of the frame looks like I't been cut down so it's hard to say what that may have done to it.

The ULT on/off would surley help but tuning it to a classic valve is sometimes tedious. Other option of course is an RT or X valve w/ the ULT but I'd try and get it atl east close with the classic valve before I dropped more cash in it.

What happens when assembled as it is now ?

I'd agree that the top of the frame has been cut.

Right now when assembled it will fire once when I first put the valve in the body but nothing after that. If I take out the valve and apply pressure to the sear with my finger it actuates with out a problem.

[RRfireblade]

After that first fire , is the bolt resetting fully ? Fire it and stick a swab down the barrel and set if you have to reset the bolt the last little bit to get it to go again.

If so , you either have typical bolt stick or the 'niod is not hitting the sear hard enough for what ever reason. Could just not have enough force anymore , could not have enough dwell , could be in the set up and tolerances.

[Jim888]

yeah I already tired that the bolt is resetting all the way.

I neglected to say in my previous post I can only get it to cycle the one time if I pull the on/off pin down as far as I can and still slide the valve back into the body. Thats when it will cycle once.

which makes me think I need a longer on off. or maybe a taller sear?

[RRfireblade]

On a classic valve , the pin length has a miniaml effect unless the one you have has been cut , then you might need longer. There really is only one spec'd length which is .750

Only thing is , if it was drastically short , you'd have a full out effect. What velocity is the one shot at ? There has to be a reason the pin is not extending on its own , it does so using valve pressure. In fact gassed up , it should shoot out of the valve and across the room.

So . . . Check the pin length , verify enough velocity , make sure the o-rings in the on/off are fresh and oiled well. The pin has to have enough force to reset the trigger/sear. Make sure also that the PT o ring is fresh so the bolts not sticking in the reset position after the first shot too.

Good Luck.

[Jim888]

I'll check some of this stuff tomorrow.
I don't think that there will be any change though due to the fact that I can put my old trigger back on and the classic fires with out a problem.

I also tried it on my X-valve with the same issue.

[RRfireblade]

Sounds like you just have a bum frame maybe.

[Jim888]

Sounds like you just have a bum frame maybe.

well thats not what I wanted to hear...maybe I'll tinker with it a bit and see what I can do

[sneakyrob828]

booyah frames came with a special on/off setup, used the same pin but different bottom and top parts. But if i remember right the top portion is shorter than usual and the bottom part of the assembly is lengthened. Ill dig it up tomorrow, take pictures and what not.

[Jim888]

booyah frames came with a special on/off setup, used the same pin but different bottom and top parts. But if i remember right the top portion is shorter than usual and the bottom part of the assembly is lengthened. Ill dig it up tomorrow, take pictures and what not.

well thats helpful...anyone have one they want to sell?

[sneakyrob828]

I was mistaken, the booyah has a longer pin that narrows like the ULT. And its the top part that is larger. Heres a picture with the stock on/off on the left, and booyah on the right.


Good luck finding one, I can't part mine without the frame. Booyah is now defunct so no help there. I'd talk to whoever sold you the frame and see if they accidentally forgot it. Or you can shim the sear possibly but idk how that will effect the bolt release.

[RRfireblade]

That's correct , it works similarly to the ULT to make the pull a bit lighter.

[Jim888]

I've found people who have had terrible trouble with the ULT and the boo-yah

isn't there a special on/off for the hyper frame? would that work?