Classic RT Help

[JRingold]

There's a used RT at a local field that I've been thinking would be great for a pneumag conversion. The only major problem that I can see is the retainer ring in the body (that the bolt spring compresses against) is loose, so if there is no barrel in the mainbody, the bolt will stay forward, as there's not tension on the spring to push it back.

I can't seem to find a classic RT body anywhere, so I'm wondering if I can take a ULE body and make an adjustment to make it work, or if I'm stuck to trying to find a way to fix the mainbody.

If you cant visualize what I'm talking about, look down an empty mainbody and you will see that inside it there is ring before the feedneck or tube.

[questionful]

You could fasten it to the barrel? Have you called AGD?

[originalspyderxtra]

i know what your saying and yes you could buy a new body like a ule and modify it to fit, i modified a minimag body to fit and what i needed to do was round out the classic rectangle rail mount, notch the back of the body to clear the larger valve retaining screw, also had to lenghten hole that the sear comes through and contacts the vlave pin. i also had chanfer the hole so that the sear has a longer stroke to push the valve pin up enough. im not sure how much work you would have to do to a new body, you would have to test fit and shave a little off then test again.

[JRingold]

I haven't bought it yet.

That would mean that I would only have one barrel... The thought was also to get a Docs converter to Cocker threads, then I could just leave it in all the time and would be able to fasten it to the barrel adapter, and then get a longer spring for it.

[originalspyderxtra]

iw ould replace the body, over time of the spring putting tenson or perhaps on the first shot couls push the whole ring and barrel out fo the tube.

[JRingold]

i know what your saying and yes you could buy a new body like a ule and modify it to fit, i modified a minimag body to fit and what i needed to do was round out the classic rectangle rail mount, notch the back of the body to clear the larger valve retaining screw, also had to lenghten hole that the sear comes through and contacts the vlave pin. i also had chanfer the hole so that the sear has a longer stroke to push the valve pin up enough. im not sure how much work you would have to do to a new body, you would have to test fit and shave a little off then test again.

Any chance you could take a picture of the underside of the body for me so I can get an idea? I am going to take my RT-Pro ULE out there next weekend and see what matches and what doesn't.

The price is right, so if I can put a ULE body on it with a little modification, that would be sweet.

[originalspyderxtra]

yeah i had pics from when i did it, if your using a ule body your probably going to have to notch the back: like this:http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...allpics056.jpg and also modify the sear hole, and your going to have to remove the twist lock from the rail.