Slight Tac Problems

[Needmorepaintball]

Ok guys, I am here to take advantage of your superior knowledge of these guns :)

Got my Tac One off of here in May. Before it came I did a ton of research on the Lvl 10 and tuning it, so when it got here I had it tuned within 2 hrs I would say. Ever since I have had not a big problem, but very small annoying ones that I seem to fix, then something else happens. So my intentions here is to get help fixing everything so I will be the happiest paintballer in the world again lol

For the record, I have a Warp Right Tac One with a Qloader Setup and ULT. My Nitro is a Centerflag Dynaflow tank (300-1500psi baby). Tank had 2900psi left in it with an output of 850-900psi. I am using the Red Spring in the Lvl 10 with the #2 carrier and 3 shims.

(1) I took my gun out to shoot today and for some odd reason the bolt wouldn't cock. I had to wait about 3 min for the bolt to come back so I could shoot. This would happen about every 10-20 shots. I figured it was bolt stick, so I took out the carrier (#2) and put in the 2.5. Crazy amounts of air down the barrel. So I put #2 back in, worked fine. Why does stuff like this happen? I thought the only times the gun needed retuning was during extreme weather changed (IE Summer to Winter).

(2) (Today as well) My first shot on a string was really hot, so I replaced the regulator seat O-Ring. No more hot shots. Now I just have very erratic velocity: 293, 288, 290, 232, 240,, 252, 290. Whats up with that? lol I dont know if this is related to the velocity, but my Qloader popped a weak paintball when put it on the gun, so all the balls got drug through the excess paint. Can this effect the velocity that badly?

(3) At the end of this horrible day, I decided just to shot the tank dry (bc the gun was now working), even though my paint was gone. So just standing around dry firing and I notice something black go flying away from my gun. The little foamie in the bolt apparently broke off and took off across my yard. lol I have a spare and I superglued it to the spot on the Lvl 10, is that all I need to do?

I know my gun can rule all if I can get her to work consistently. When she does work I do some awesome work on the field. When she is temperamental (such as today) all I get is mocked by my buds and their stupid low end Tippmanns .

And while I have you captive to my thread lol If I want to shoot the Beth in the 15bps range, do I need to retune the ULT? I had the pressure on my tank up to around 1200psi the other day and I was getting about 2-10 quick shots then it stops. Is this me not sweetspotting correctly? Or would it be better to reinstall the original trigger to get the BPS higher?

Thats all for now. I will let ya know if I come up with anything else.

Thanks in advance!!!

[Andrewliu6294]

1.) how many shims are in the LX? that could very well be your problem.

2.) yes, the paint can.

3.) yup. let it dry before firing.

[Needmorepaintball]

1.) how many shims are in the LX? that could very well be your problem.

2.) yes, the paint can.

3.) yup. let it dry before firing.

I have 3 shims in the Lvl 10 and 4 in the ULT

Thanks

[Andrewliu6294]

I'm not sure about the ULT, but did you try taking out shims in the LX?

The powertube may be too long with that many O-rings, causing cocking problems.

I know i only run with 1 in the LX in my classic valve.

[Needmorepaintball]

I'm not sure about the ULT, but did you try taking out shims in the LX?

The powertube may be too long with that many O-rings, causing cocking problems.

I know i only run with 1 in the LX in my classic valve.

The least amount of shims I have ever used is 2, which is the starting point for tuning. If the valve leaks or the air comes down the barrel, add a shim to make it stop. Which it does, giving me 3. So I am unsure if using 1 would work or not.

But when I get my tank filled tomorrow I will certainly try.

[athomas]

Now I just have very erratic velocity: 293, 288, 290, 232, 240,, 252, 290. Whats up with that? lol I dont know if this is related to the velocity, but my Qloader popped a weak paintball when put it on the gun, so all the balls got drug through the excess paint. Can this effect the velocity that badly?

Yes, that would cause very erratic velocity.

I always remove powertube shims when tuning my level 10. It removes any chances that the shims are causing a leak rather than the carrier size. Shims only determine how far the bolt has to move before it can reset itself. Sometimes, too many shims can cause you to have to use a carrier that is too tight in order to stop the leaking caused by the shims.

Sweetspotting is sometimes hard to do. You need to find the right amount of trigger force and the correct position to to initiate and sustain trigger bounce.

[Needmorepaintball]

Yes, that would cause very erratic velocity.

I always remove powertube shims when tuning my level 10. It removes any chances that the shims are causing a leak rather than the carrier size. Shims only determine how far the bolt has to move before it can reset itself. Sometimes, too many shims can cause you to have to use a carrier that is too tight in order to stop the leaking caused by the shims.

Sweetspotting is sometimes hard to do. You need to find the right amount of trigger force and the correct position to to initiate and sustain trigger bounce.

Glad to know that the paint was most likely the velocity problem.

So you suggest I retune the gun without the shims to make sure the carrier is indeed the correct one, then readd the shims after I find the right carrier correct?

Would it be easier to sweetspot with the ULT or the stock RT trigger? I my tank can do 1500psi lol

Thanks

[Piranti]

Stock RT is easier to Sweetspot, but an improperly tunes ULT can be nearly so but more difficult to tune to get the desired effect.

[athomas]

The retro on-off assembly will be the easiest to sweetspot. The ULT was brought in to reduce the trigger pull and to also reduce the runaway effect of a retro valve.

[Argelmcgee]

Yeah, AThomas was right about the tuning. You should always tune without shims and add them as they are needed. Also, always use the largest possible carrier that doesn't leak, not the tightest carrier that fires (it'll give you better efficiency). When switching carrier sizes, use the same carrier o-ring.

[Needmorepaintball]

Thanks!

Yeah, AThomas was right about the tuning. You should always tune without shims and add them as they are needed. Also, always use the largest possible carrier that doesn't leak, not the tightest carrier that fires (it'll give you better efficiency). When switching carrier sizes, use the same carrier o-ring.

Thank you very much for the tips. As soon as I get my tank refilled I will retune it properly and post my results here (for anyone having a similar problem). Am I correct in saying that I just need the biggest carrier that doesnt let mass amounts of air down the barrel and actually lets the gun cycle? The only leak I should have will be in the internals/feedneck, and the shims will solve that correct?

And after its tuned I will reinstall the old RT trigger and also post my results.

Thanks for all the help guys

[Argelmcgee]

Here... a guide on tuning your Level 10.

[Needmorepaintball]

Thanks that really eliminated a lot of my questions about tuning.

Julian : dont worry man, if you find someone to get it working right you will be so happy, AGD guns are purely awesome when they are tuned correctly :)

[Needmorepaintball]

Update

Ok so I got my air today and I was able to retune the gun and my results are quite nice I believe, but I want to double check them with you guys.

Tuning the gun with no shims and the short gold spring, I found that the #2 carrier had no leaks at gas up, but after I pull the trigger it leaks down the barrel. Also, that the leak gets bigger after every trigger pull. I assumed that this means that the carrier is too big, please tell me if I am wrong on this.

After that I put in the #1.5 carrier and had perfect results. The gun has no leaks at gas up, and no leaks after single shot and rapid fire operation. After testing the Lvl 10 on on the squeegie, i discovered it had a hair of trouble reseting after a couple of attempts. I then added 1 shim to the bolt and it stops every single time and resets with no trouble at all.

No I was not able to test the velocity of the gun at all, bc the glue I used on my backup Foamie for the bolt apparently was not up to par and I lost my backup Foamie . lol So I placed an order for a new pack of those, any glue suggestions?

And I guess my final question for now, which spring should I switch too? As said I used the Shortest (Gold) Spring for this project, but should I use the Longer (Red) or the Longer (Silver) Spring for peak performace?

Thanks for all the informative posts and help

[DvS21]

you know the foamie isn't needed... It just helps with being gentle.