Problems

[soren]

OK... I'm sure someone has posted about this very problem before but hell if I can find it... not to mention what the problem is.

I have part bought my minimag on ebay(I'm sure someone is gonna mention this is the 1st problew ) I have disassembled it to parts and cleaned and relubed everything already and put it all back together accourding to the diagrams and vids. It is a Rental AIR valve assembly L7 with the 8 hole mod.
Oh yeah, and the on/off looks completly different than the pic from the blow-up of the classic on/off from AGD...

Whenever I gas up my mag, everything works great. The velocity is good about 275 consistently. However, after firing a bit (about 5-6 shots in a row), something happens and the gun starts leaking out the barrel is a big time way. If I cycle the trigger again, it stops leaking and everything works again. Not sure if this is the phenomenon known as bolt stick or not; but I never have a problem with the next ball being fully in the chamber when this happens. Also, I notice that if I degass right after this, my on/of pin is sticking out so much that I can't pull out my assembly, I have to remove the grip to push the pin back in. Could that have something to do with the problem? I thought i might be my sear but it's brand new.

I dunno what's going on and I love the mag. The first one I ever used sold me on the product and I looked into getting one any way I could. And I have read enough on here to know that I don't have to just buy a brand new one for it to work

[Piranti]

Are you using CO2 ? Kinda sounds like that is the case after rapidly firing CO2 that can happen occasionally, and Liquid CO2 is getting inside the internals.

[soren]

Are you using CO2 ? Kinda sounds like that is the case after rapidly firing CO2 that can happen occasionally, and Liquid CO2 is getting inside the internals.

Sorry, using HPA

[djellum]

Sounds like bolt stick to me. Do you have a L10?

[soren]

Level 7

[soren]

Ok... well, I went to a friends place to work on my mag... and we used my valve with his bolt and switched out a few parts. and as it turned out, I was also getting bolt stick. This was due to using the exploded view to reassemble my valve. Apparently, using 2 orings in the power tube (1 on either side of the spacer) caused my bolt stick. Even though the exploded view shows it that way, and I pulled 2 orings out of the power tube when replacing them.

Perhaps the last owner used 2 to get a proper fit. The end result is. No more bolt stick. no more leaking down the barrle with rapid fire and having to reset the on/off pin.

Now instead, I have a slight leak coming from the valve somewhere. However, it is so slight that you have to be in a quite room to hear it. ANd pushing the vavle forward makes it go away... I plan on getting a rebuild kit and replacing all my orings... the other one I used was kind old. Oh yeah, I also drilled out the restricter inside the power tube, so now I can mount a L10 if I want.

Now, the only thing I really need to know is can I use an RT on/off assembly with my 68 Classic valve?

[Coralis]

yes you can use the Rt on/off in a classic valve

[Andrewliu6294]

do you have a rail bushing? you shouldnt really be able to push the valve forward if you have one. not having one can cause some problems.

[cerrik]

Yeah, there is a rail bushing... its a very very very quiet leak and I have to push hard on the back of the reg to even move it. Doesn't seem to be much of a problem so I'm not too worried about it. Got some barts off getting anno'd so it'll be awhile before I can put everything together again and work with this...

Thanks for all your help!