sear not resetting?

[mr doo doo]

so, i am using an x-valve with ULT and Level 10 bolt. i was using lukes sear mod, and when i got to around 10-15 shots, my sear wouldnt reset. with the normal sear position, if was a bit better, but it would still persist. i would have to release air and re-air up my gun/valve for the sear to reset.

my tank, PMI 48/3000, is full to 3000psi, 850 psi output, and macroline is what i am using.

[Coralis]

sounds like your level 10 carrier might be to tight, try retuning .

[flyingpootang]

sounds like your level 10 carrier might be to tight retuning .

Remove 1 L10 shim at a time until it resets reliably. If you run out of shims move to the next loosest L10 carrier and 2 shims and start all over again.

[mr doo doo]

is it really my level 10 bolt? i forgot to add that when i swap my ULT for a regular RT on/off, my gun works flawlessly.

[Zone Drifter]

Come to think of it, I've had this problem as well, and i thought it was only the lvl 10, HOWEVER... i was using my pro classic yesterday, and it did the same thing! It locked up, and i could push the bolt back and hear it click, sounding like it wasnt resetting as well.

This isnt just a lvl 10 problem, because my pro classic is also having the same problem and it has a lvl 7 bolt. What i did with my classic valve, is put more oil in the on/off assy, and that seemed to work. I also put a very light coat on the sear where the bolt makes contact just to lessen the friction a bit. That seemed to fix my classic valve, it shoots consistently now. I have not been able to completely fix my x valve though, still trying to figure that out. It could be my on/off, but i dont know yet.

[mr doo doo]

hum.... alright, ill try that soon. dad's out back and he hates it when i make noise since the elderly look at me like a maniac

i didnt think it wound be my bolt and such since when i bought it, the seller told me it was tuned by tunaman himself, so, that pretty much explains it. but ill give the oil a try. Just in the on/ff assembly, or should i just do the oil-in-the-ASA method?

[robnix]

hum.... alright, ill try that soon. dad's out back and he hates it when i make noise since the elderly look at me like a maniac

i didnt think it wound be my bolt and such since when i bought it, the seller told me it was tuned by tunaman himself, so, that pretty much explains it. but ill give the oil a try. Just in the on/ff assembly, or should i just do the oil-in-the-ASA method?

Make sure you're not overtighten the frame screw and the valve bolt as well as the oil.

[mr doo doo]

thanks for the tip. loosened the field strip screw and the frame screw. now all i need to do is try the oil part.

[robnix]

thanks for the tip. loosened the field strip screw and the frame screw. now all i need to do is try the oil part.

Quarter turn past hand tightened is all you need.

[luke]

i was using lukes sear mod, and when i got to around 10-15 shots, my sear wouldnt reset. with the normal sear position, if was a bit better, but it would still persist. i would have to release air and re-air up my gun/valve for the sear to reset.

my tank, PMI 48/3000, is full to 3000psi, 850 psi output, and macroline is what i am using.

What exactly do you mean?

Does it not reset meaning air is leaking down the barrel?

Or, it will not fire the next shot?

I assume it just won't reset the on/off by the description (meaning the marker won't fire). My guess is that your set up is not adjusted properly. If you got the set screws in the trigger you are not leaving enough "extra" space in the trigger for the on/off to operate properly.

With the marker aired up you should have a small gap between the end of the trigger rod and the back of your trigger. That is the top screw adjustment.

For the lower screw it should be adjusted until it "just" stops firing the marker. THEN back it out about a 1/2 a turn. If it continues to miss fire back it out a little at a time until it operates properly.

If you don't have the trigger stops you may need to adjust the trigger rod OUT some for the same reason as you would adjust the lower set screw. The same principles apply to adjusting the trigger rod as adjusting the stops in your trigger. You must have extra play in the trigger for the on/off to operate properly.

[mr doo doo]

ok, so i tested until i ran out of air, and unfortunately, its not fixed.

i fully oiled the on/off assembly, dropped a couple drops in the power tub, and oiled the parts of the sear that would cause friction. then, i switched back to the sear mod position. went to go try everything out, and as i said before, my sear would reset with less pulls than with the regular sear position. BUT, i have come to the conclusion that its a bolt stick, meaning my carrier is too tight? shims? i cant try anything out since, at the moment, i dont have air...

EDIT: my carrier is the one with 4 dots on the upper half, with 2 shims.

[chill will]

It could be that your valve spring has worn out and needs tobe replaced.

What do you think guys?

[robnix]

It could be that your valve spring has worn out and needs tobe replaced.

What do you think guys?

I highly doubt it's the age of the spring. That valve came from me and only had about two cases put through it before I sold it to MDD with no sticking issues.

[mr doo doo]

im going to conclude that its the weather? when i used the valve for the first time, it was sort of cold, like around 50-60 degrees F, and sprinkled on/off. is this a worthy guess?

[luke]

Have you considered what I said? A sear mod will cause a malfunction if adjusted incorrectly.

i would have to release air and re-air up my gun/valve for the sear to reset.

This sounds like the on/off not the bolt.