Ok here is whats going on. Swapped out a level #10 bolt and went back to a level #7. (Not my marker and the guy thinks level 10 is too much of an air hog.) He has an X-valve which was working perfectly when it had the level 10 bolt. The e-mag valve that the level #7 bolt was working perfectly when it was on the e-mag. Then we switched the bolts The level 10 works great on the emag after tuning it. So here is the problem. We have air leaking down the barrel but not all the time. and valve no longer RT's at all. Have adjusted input pressure down to 800 and all the way up to 1200 and still no RT bounce. Any Ideas??? I have tried o rings and still have the leak.
Air leak down barrel level #7 HELP!!
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Switched out the old rt on off with an E-mag on off today and started getting good response out it at around 950 psi input. Not leaking down the barrel anymore but it still chuffs quite a bit. The even stranger thing is I am get two shots per trigger pull now. Fires once with a solid strong trigger pull then fires a second time upon release which is a new one on me.
I pulled the Emag on off out of a perfectly shooting Tac-One R/T.
I dont think the minor air efficiency gain of a level 7 is worth the performance and consistency loss over a lv10 if this is typical of a level 7. I am not real familiar with the lv. 7 but is this typical as far as chuffing and short stroking? Never had this problem with the Lv. 10.
Automag RT/ULE
X-valve
LV-7 w / gold spring
Logic Alpha Rail
Intelliframe
ACI Bulldog 88/4500
Maxlow HP adjustable reg
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Air leaking sporatically down the barrel is probably a powertube spacer that is too long.Originally posted by blake20Ok here is whats going on. Swapped out a level #10 bolt and went back to a level #7. (Not my marker and the guy thinks level 10 is too much of an air hog.) He has an X-valve which was working perfectly when it had the level 10 bolt. The e-mag valve that the level #7 bolt was working perfectly when it was on the e-mag. Then we switched the bolts The level 10 works great on the emag after tuning it. So here is the problem. We have air leaking down the barrel but not all the time. and valve no longer RT's at all. Have adjusted input pressure down to 800 and all the way up to 1200 and still no RT bounce. Any Ideas??? I have tried o rings and still have the leak.
The level 7 bolt puts more pressure on the sear. Depending on the internal chamber pressure, the pressure on the sear will be higher but the on-off pressure may not be reduced much, especially if there is a ULT installed.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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The on-off may be allowing the air chamber to start to fill before the bolt is fully back in place, causing the 2nd shot on the trigger release. This is usually indicative of a bad on-off top oring which could be compounded by the shorter emag on-off pin.Originally posted by dropzoneSwitched out the old rt on off with an E-mag on off today and started getting good response out it at around 950 psi input. Not leaking down the barrel anymore but it still chuffs quite a bit. The even stranger thing is I am get two shots per trigger pull now. Fires once with a solid strong trigger pull then fires a second time upon release which is a new one on me.
I pulled the Emag on off out of a perfectly shooting Tac-One R/T.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Thanks for your input athomas its always appreciated and usually right on target.
With what you are saying I am inclined to think that it is the lv. 7 causing the problem and not the on off or o-rings. In the Tac-one the E-mag on off works flawlessly with the level 10 thats in it and the only difference in the Tac one and My ULE is the bolts. So am I right to assume that with the added pressure on the sear from the level 7 in my ULE that this is where the problem is and I just need to go back to a level 10 bolt and keep the E-mag on off ? I really like the feel of the E-mag on off over the R/T and it seems to preform a lot better do to the shorter pin.
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Well lets see, both markers were in excellent working condition when you started. I get mine back and have to do a bunch of work to get the level 10 to work correctly. Sooooo Sounds like the common denominator on non working markers is DROP ZONE THE MARKER DESTROYER
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