Tac-One paint blender

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  • Anjin3515
    Guy with a question
    • Aug 2007
    • 367

    #1

    Tac-One paint blender

    Saturday, Windy City Classic 8hr scenario.....day just full of EVERYTHING going wrong.

    First my Q-Loader turned into just a Q as it wouldn't load anything!
    Then I had to find a way to feed my warp right Tac-One. I did..more on that in a moment.

    During play the Tac was chopping like mad. It was also shooting some wicked curve balls (where was the Tac when the Cubs were in the NLDS). Id get a shot or two off, almost non of them being even close to straight, then Id shoot out a nice spray of paint and shell...rinse and repeat.

    I really need peoples help in debugging this so I can get this baby up running right, there are many factors....but I need all of your help to figure it out....

    1) BARREL: I'm pretty sure it was not the barrel....I used both a Palmer Brass and the stock J&J...both were curving balls...almost no straight shots.Both had the same results of a few shots and then a spray of paint and shell.

    2) PAINT: Interesting enough my wifes PMR shot fine, no chops and was shooting straight. Another friend has the same PMR and he had no chops, but was shooting curves. The weather was mid 60's. Paint was Marbalizer....it seemed a little thin shelled...asking around some people were having chop issues others not.....but I would expect that result with that many players.

    3) MY "WARP FEED SOLUTION" : Here is my best guess for why things were so messed up. As the Q-Loader was not working I had to take a 45* elbow and a agitated hopper and attach them to the warp right feed neck. It did feed into the gun. However, as this is NOT how you are supposed to use a warp. My thinking is that while it did feed the balls into the gun...maybe it was doing so incorrectly, thus leading to chops and curves. Anyone care to speculate how using a set up like this might cause such problems?? It does seem like the most likely candidate....but from a technical standpoint I don't know how it would cause these problems?

    4) LVL 10 : Could this be a Lvl 10 problem? I am still using the LVL 10 factory settings....yet even if not set just right would it cause so many balls to chop....and would a mis-tuned LVL 10 in anyway affect the fight patch of a ball?


    OTHER THINGS I CAN THINK OF :
    Velocity? Was chronoing at 270 to 285...dont think that was the problem.

    Spring? I am still using the factory spring (red one?)

    The universe just hates me? Last year when I played in this same scenario game my A-5 was a blender. One of the main reasons I got a new marker was to avoid this problem again at this event. I will say that last year EVERYONE seemed to be having chopping issues and most people thought it was the paint. This year, it was far more random, there was no general consensus that the paint was an issue. Maybe after all my research, waiting, wanting and finding the Automag...the universe just wanted to mess with me and caused all my problems.


    Thoughts? Ideas? Help.....please.

    I got the Mag for its sterling reputation on not being a ball chopper.....and yet here I was again blending paint. I do think it was the jury-rig way I set up to feed the thing...but Id like to hear what you, the Mag experts think.

    Thanks.
  • mostpeople
    Registered User
    • Mar 2007
    • 1680

    #2
    If you were using simply an agitated hopper, and not a force fed hopper on a 45 degree then I would speculate that was your problem. I reccomend, if you are going to ditch the Q-loader, to get a warp, or a vert feed mainbody and use a regular hopper, like a haloB or something..

    The lvl 10 is an amazing system, but it wont prevent all ball chops. Simply not possible, I tune my lvl ten all day long, and still chop tourney grade paint on a haloB. I put my finger in there and it feels very light, I would stick my tongue in there without worry.. thats how well I have it tuned. Yet it will still chop paint.. not often mind you, but still every once in a while at high ROF. Also, after a ball is chipped in the breech - all bets are off. You will not get another straight shot reliably until you clean it out.

    Now your paint, at 45 degrees with an agitated hopper wont feed consistantly.. this was most likely your problem.
    Last edited by mostpeople; 10-14-2007, 07:04 PM.

    Comment

    • Anjin3515
      Guy with a question
      • Aug 2007
      • 367

      #3
      thanks.

      You think a something in the breech was causing the curves?

      Comment

      • Geronimo7
        Registered User
        • Apr 2007
        • 419

        #4
        trying to use a hopper on a warp body was probably a bad idea to start with anyway. oh well
        not much else you coulda done there. to try and figure out your chopping problem read up on the q manual (maybe), there are not to many other options to feed a warp body. i would recomend trying to find someone with a warp feed or vert feed body so you can do some testing and try to eliminate some particular problems.

        Comment

        • mostpeople
          Registered User
          • Mar 2007
          • 1680

          #5
          gravity feed hoppers use veritcal feed (drop ball into breech from above) systems for a reason, trying to rely on gravity to 'force' a ball into the breech of a warp'd mainbody is probably what gave you so many chops.

          Had it been a force-feed hopper there might have been less issues.

          Comment

          • Anjin3515
            Guy with a question
            • Aug 2007
            • 367

            #6
            I wonder if 1 or 2 balls feed and a half ball feed and thats the one the got chopped?

            I knew it wasnt a good setup...it was make due. I do hope that it was the problem....as then its easy to fix....just dont do that again

            Comment

            • Anjin3515
              Guy with a question
              • Aug 2007
              • 367

              #7
              sorry...bump for more help....

              Comment

              • JRingold
                Big Fat Guy
                • Apr 2002
                • 772

                #8
                After you got the Q working again, does it still have the same problem?

                Sounds like you either need to buy a backup Q-loader or a warp feed. Sounds crazy, but I have a backup Halo and a backup eVLution to the backup Halo. One shouldn't need two backups for a $120+ loader.
                I went like this :shooting:
                He went like this :tard: then like this :wow: then like this :cry:
                Now he shoots a Mag too...

                -JR

                Comment

                • Anjin3515
                  Guy with a question
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 367

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JRingold
                  After you got the Q working again, does it still have the same problem?

                  Sounds like you either need to buy a backup Q-loader or a warp feed. Sounds crazy, but I have a backup Halo and a backup eVLution to the backup Halo. One shouldn't need two backups for a $120+ loader.
                  Still have to get the Q working.....

                  Comment

                  • Madmox
                    Registered User
                    • Sep 2005
                    • 53

                    #10
                    I don't buy the loader idea. Maybe if the balls were breaking in the breech from it not loading fast enough. but i can feed my RT pro with a revvy no problem. And if there is no break in the breech the loader has no way to cause the balls to curve. I bet there is some residue or something in the breech. Or secondly could the barrel have been wet inside that'll cause and break or curve in a real hurry. Just more thoughts. The way to tell if it is the loader is if your getting breech cuts or it isn't feeding at all. If they are not breech cuts and the balls ARE feeding then the loader isn't your problem. Gonna have to look elsewhere maybe in an overly aggressive detent? Or a nicked or scratched breech. OR maybe the bolt has Chingaderos lodged in it causing the air to flow unevenly.


                    Madmox

                    Comment

                    • MeÐiCX
                      Boneyard PB
                      • Feb 2007
                      • 662

                      #11
                      You were getting chops because balls were not loading correctly w/ the warp & 45* elbow setup. There's something weird about that Marb paint CPX uses. It's thinner shelled than normal. Last year ALOT of ppl were blending paint. It was bad!

                      My guess w/ the inaccurate shots was due to the breaks. Mags, if setup right, are consistent and one of the top markers for accuracy. Does your LvL 10 pass the dollar bill test? I have found the gold spring to be most consistent. The gold spring will have to be used to get velocities under 260 FPS.

                      QLoader? Try unscrewing the warp feedneck from the marker. Attach the direct mount and QLoader. Load a dozen balls in a pod and load the pod in the socket. Do they come flying out of the feedneck?? You said you can manually pass balls through the socket and feedneck into the breech. Its possible, if thats is true, you pre-wound the QPods wrong.
                      Last edited by Me�iCX; 10-19-2007, 09:19 AM.

                      Comment

                      • Russ
                        Senior Membrane
                        • Jul 2001
                        • 1935

                        #12
                        You need to tune the Level X (LX) as well. A tuned LX won't chop, it will just "chuff" when it hits a partially fit ball

                        Comment

                        • Anjin3515
                          Guy with a question
                          • Aug 2007
                          • 367

                          #13
                          How would I know if it passed the dollar test.
                          I tried this today...

                          Put bill in through feedneck
                          Pull trigger
                          Gun fires and gets "stuck" in place...pinning the dollar...if that makes sense....

                          Comment

                          • Geronimo7
                            Registered User
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 419

                            #14
                            sounds like bolt stick. use the largerst carrier that doesn't leak
                            what carrier is in in now.
                            and remember while changing carriers always use the same oring

                            Comment

                            • MeÐiCX
                              Boneyard PB
                              • Feb 2007
                              • 662

                              #15
                              Dollar bill test - loosely roll a bill the long way. Remove your barrel and stick the rolled bill down the breech up to the feedneck. Fire, bolt should stop and reset.

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