Tac-1 leaks. Help!

[stompdown]

Ok I already posted before but I am still unable to stop the leak. I am using a preset 800psi 68/4500 crossfire hpa tank. Here's the scenario... Whenever I screw the bottle in the gun charges with no leaks. I am unable to fire when I pull the trigger. Then about 7 seconds after I screw the bottle in a huge leak starts from the asa. It's almost like the pressure of air has nowhere to go. So of course I unscrew the bottle and everything stops. Then I screw it back in and a huge leak shoots down the barrel and i'm still unable to shoot the gun. I purchased my gun with the lvl 10 upgrade installed as well as the ule trigger installed. I have tried using different springs for the bolt I even tried different carriers but with the same resutls as before. The carrier that was installed at factory seems to be the best fit. Lvl 10 also currently using 3 shims. I havn't messed with the shims yet but I have a feeling thats not even the problem. Iv'e been tinkering with this gun all week and gone through several bottles of air. I am at my wits end please help.

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Ok I already posted before but I am still unable to stop the leak. I am using a preset 800psi 68/4500 crossfire hpa tank. Here's the scenario... Whenever I screw the bottle in the gun charges with no leaks. I am unable to fire when I pull the trigger. Then about 7 seconds after I screw the bottle in a huge leak starts from the asa. It's almost like the pressure of air has nowhere to go. So of course I unscrew the bottle and everything stops. Then I screw it back in and a huge leak shoots down the barrel and i'm still unable to shoot the gun. I purchased my gun with the lvl 10 upgrade installed as well as the ule trigger installed. I have tried using different springs for the bolt I even tried different carriers but with the same resutls as before. The carrier that was installed at factory seems to be the best fit. Lvl 10 also currently using 3 shims. I havn't messed with the shims yet but I have a feeling thats not even the problem. Iv'e been tinkering with this gun all week and gone through several bottles of air. I am at my wits end please help.

I'm not sure what the air leak could be from the asa... but if it won't fire when you pull the tirgger crank the velocity up a bit, that might be a problem. For one thing, when tuning your level 10, do it without any shims. Sometimes having too many shims 'causes it to leak or give rise to other problems.

When I got my Mag, the factory carrier size worked, but it was NOT the largest carrier that did not leak. What you want to do is find the carrier that doe not 'cause the marker to leak down the barrel when you gas it up. The way I tuned it was as tunaman described:

DO NOT USE SHIMS while doing this, it comes much later in the tuning process.

1) Gut your level 10 down to the carrier
2) Arrange all your carriers from largest to smallest.
3) Starting from the largest carrier and working your way down in size, you want to put the white o-ring inside the carrier and slide it over the bolt. Hold the carrier and see if the bolt falls. If it does the carrier is too loose. You want the carrier that bolt does not fall down from. note: ALWAYS use the same white O-ring
4) Once you have the right carrier, put it all together and gas it up and check for leaks. If you just got this mag new, you probably need to set in the carrier o-ring so fire your mag a tank or so and it should leak again 'cause the O-ring got set in. So you would go down a carrier size.

If you already knew this, maybe it'll help someone who didn't... But good luck with your problem

[stompdown]

Thank you. Your instructions are clear and concise. I can definately handle this task. When I was swapping carriers I wasn't messing with the shims. I have 3 installed currently. When it comes to the velocity adjustments I have no idea if it is set too high or too low. I know what direction to turn it, but do I gradually increase/lower velocity when the gun is charged or do I do it before charging the gun? I need to get more air before I can make adjustments but I'll post back with my results. Again thank you.

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Thank you. Your instructions are clear and concise. I can definately handle this task. When I was swapping carriers I wasn't messing with the shims. I have 3 installed currently. When it comes to the velocity adjustments I have no idea if it is set too high or too low. I know what direction to turn it, but do I gradually increase/lower velocity when the gun is charged or do I do it before charging the gun? I need to get more air before I can make adjustments but I'll post back with my results. Again thank you.

[stompdown]

Can you give me a little tut on when to add shims. I'm under the impression that if I find the right carrier I will probably still have a small leak therefore add shims right? When changes will the gun make to let me know that I found the right carrier?

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Can you give me a little tut on when to add shims. I'm under the impression that if I find the right carrier I will probably still have a small leak therefore add shims right? When changes will the gun make to let me know that I found the right carrier?

Adding shims are to help the bolt reset, not to fix leaks.
The only time you add shims, is when there is NO leak when you gas up your mag.


note: Hold your trigger before you gas up your mag, this helps set in the o-rings
Another note: If you have a ULT trigger, take it out and tune your mag without it. This way you only have a few factors to worry about.

When you find the right carrier from the bolt-carrier weight test and you gas it up one of two things happen:

1) There is no leak - Fire the marker for a tank or until it leaks. If it leaks that means you set your o-ring in and you need to go down a carrier size.
2) There is a leak - Move down a carrier size. Gas it up and check for leaks again.

If by chance, you're on the smallest carrier(no markings on the carrier) with no shims and there is a leak, then you need to change the white o-ring that goes into the carrier and start the tuning process all over again.

If you followed the directions from the beginning to the letter and there is no leak, then you know you have the right carrier size.



So now, you hopefully have the right carrier size. Lets move on to shims:

1) Gut your mag to the power tube tip.
2) Add one shim Make sure it sits flush by pressing down on it with a blunt end of a object(i use the back end of my dental pick)
2a) If you haven't done this already, oil up the o-ring lightly on the power tube tip.
3) Reassemble your mag, and gas it up. One of two things happen;
3A) It does not leak - Repeat steps 2-3.
3B) It leaks - Remove one shim and go to step 4.
4) Dry fire your mag firing slow/fast and check if it leaks when you pull the trigger. If it does, remove a shim, gas it up and dry fire test it again. If the leak still occurs remove another shim, and dry fire it again.

If you don't have any problems with your mag dry firing, you should be now tuned. Now chronograph your mag using the proper technique:

1) Hold down the trigger.
2) Release the trigger and hold it again as quickly as you can.
3) Repeat as necessary

When firing fast, the X-valve is most consistent. Hence why you use this technique.

With a tuned x-valve and high out-put pressure, you should be able to sweet spot your mag to get it up to nice BPS. The highest I've gotten mine to is 17, a rate I don't plan on shooting often. You can check BPS on specific chronographs. I have one by X-radar that tells you the fps on your shots if you fire slowly, but if you fire at 5BPS or higher then it tells you your FPS.

By the time your finished tuning, you could probably time attack gutting and reassembling your mag (sounds like a video contest we could have ). It takes a bit of patience, but it's WELL worth it in the end.

Good luck tuning! If you have any problems, don't be afraid to ask again .

[stompdown]

Thanks again, your top notch.

[DBC]

I almost hate to ask, but in all my reading I still don't know the following:

1) How does one tell the different carrier sizes?

2) How does one remove the carrier? I tired and could not (I was afraid I would break or scrtach something).

BTW, the previous post on tuning is very helpful.

[MANN]

each carrier has dots and lines. A line is worth 1, and a dot is worth .5. You will see that you should have 9 carriers. 0, .5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4

I use a thumb screw to remove the carrier. Screw it into it a few threads, and pull.

[stompdown]

UPDATE!!!
Ok, so I'm currently tuning my tac-1. So far I found a carrier that does not leak when I charge the gun I am able to dry fire fine but it seems that the lvl 10 is kicking in between shots and the bolt would stick forward. I have added up to 3 shims now and the gun dry fires fine for about 15 shots then nothing. I can tell that the gun is still charged and I have no leaks but I am unable to fire the gun. What could be causing this?? Should I add another shim or move down a carrier?

[stompdown]

Ok so I kind of confused myself with the previous post. Here is whats going on as of now. I am able to charge the gun fine. I get a hopper load of paint and fire the gun. The gun shoots great for about 10-15 shots then nothing. I have to make slight velocity adjustments to get it to fire again. It seems the faster I fire the gun the quicker it "goes dead" then I have to make another velocity adjustment. I am working with the next to smallest carrier and about 4 shims. If anyone has experienced this can you please help me remedy this. Thanks

[Coralis]

First of take a look at this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw .... It sound like you might still have too tight of a carrier if you are still having alot of bolt stick.

[secretweaponevan]

^ what he said. Also, remember to put a couple drops of lube in the ASA and down the power tube.

Mags are all o-rings and they love lube. Be sure to remove your barrel before gassing up and shooting a couple dozen shots to get most of the oil out so you don't lube the inside of your barrel.

[stompdown]

Good stuff. I'm very impressed with how helpful you guys have been. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.

[stompdown]

UPDATE!! Ok so I went to the field this morning to play a few games. I showed up early and did some more tuning. I tuned up pretty good where I have no leaks. The gun was shooting great on the field but I started chopping paint like crazy the last few games. This is my first time using a mag with a lvl 10 so I'm not sure how gentle the bolt should be when you stick your finger down the feedneck but when I did the bolt wasn't exactly gentle. If my finger was a paintball it would have exploded instantly explaining why I was blending so much paint. My velocity is set around 280-290. My question is what adjustments should I make to keep the lvl 10 from slamming forward even if my finger is in the way simulating ball jam?