Level 10 help please

[Digler45]

Stock Tac-One, with ULE installed.

Came stock with the shortest spring in there. seems to work fairly well, but seems a little hard on my finger test. I have yet to shoot any paint through it yet, but at the force that it was hitting my finger, i would suspect that it would chop paint.

I decided that the shor spring was not the right spring for me, so i tried another. I tried both the longest, and the middle spring. I cannot get the marker to fire at all with either of the other 2 springs in there. infact, there appears to be no air getting to the trigger pin... I tried adjusting velocity, but nothing changed. Do i need to step down a carrier size or 2? i am currently using the lasrgest one that did not leak for the shot spring (3rd from largest i believe). What am i doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

[Madmarx]

If it's "hard' on your finger try adding a shim or 2.
Have you oiled it at all?
Put a few drops in and dry fire a bunch of shots.

[athomas]

Shims do not make it easier or harder on your finger. Shims only adjust the distance that the bolt must move before it can vent air and reset.

When determining how hard the bolt is hitting, you must put an object directly against the bolt bace. If the bolt moves more than 1/4" it will hit at full force. The soft impact is only for the start of the bolt cycle.

When you put the longer springs in, did you increase the velocity setting to compensate for the increased pressure required? If not, the gun won't fire, although the trigger rod should be forward. Always use the largest carrier that doen't leak.

[Madmarx]

So wouldn't adding a shim allow it to engage earlier, therefore not travel as far before venting and make it "feel" softer on the finger?
Maybe I should have explained more or am I completely off?

[Digler45]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies so far. As i stated previously, i did adjust the velocity (allen key in the back) unless im doing it wrong. turned it all the way around, and still nothing. I have lubed it up with many drops of oil.

Maybe i am adjusting the velocity wrong, but from what i can tell, you just put the allen key in and turn it?

Any other thoughts?

[Madmarx]

Does the sear ever reset when you gas it up?

I reread your first post... stick with the short spring.
It fires right?
You're just not happy with the level 10 action?

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies so far. As i stated previously, i did adjust the velocity (allen key in the back) unless im doing it wrong. turned it all the way around, and still nothing. I have lubed it up with many drops of oil.

Maybe i am adjusting the velocity wrong, but from what i can tell, you just put the allen key in and turn it?

Any other thoughts?

When going from short spring to longer ones, I ended up cranking it up a LOT. Way more than one full rotation, that's for sure.

You sure you didn't forget the carrier or any other piece from the lvl10/xvalve?

I know I've forgotten to put back some parts before gassing my mag up

[Digler45]

Madmarx - yes, with the short spring, it fires, just feels too hard, and i believe it will chop.

aznmarkofdafiji - no spare parts, never took the power tube apart to change the spring. Only change the spring, and put it back together. I will try to crank it more.

[Madmarx]

If you never took apart the powertube, how do you know what carrier is in there and if you can use a larger one or not?

[Digler45]

If you never took apart the powertube, how do you know what carrier is in there and if you can use a larger one or not?

Ok, let me explain. I took it apart and put in the largest carrier for the short spring that didnt not leak. Everything functions with the short spring. took apart again, this time just to change the spring (no need to change the carrier). only meant, that i did not foget any parts.

I did ask if the carrier size needs to be adjusted again for the longer spring. hope we are all on the same page now. appreciate the feedback, and please keep the questions coming for me if you have any. thanks.

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Ok, let me explain. I took it apart and put in the largest carrier for the short spring that didnt not leak. Everything functions with the short spring. took apart again, this time just to change the spring (no need to change the carrier). only meant, that i did not foget any parts.

I did ask if the carrier size needs to be adjusted again for the longer spring. hope we are all on the same page now. appreciate the feedback, and please keep the questions coming for me if you have any. thanks.

The carrier should not need to be changed with the change of a spring. Changing springs is for changing velocity. As long as your not leaking or having bolt stick, you don't need to change the carrier size.

I have 2 questions:

1)With the short spring, did you try to Chronograph your mag?

When I finished tuning my mag with the short spring I changed it to the long spring to see if there was a noticeable difference in performance. I ended up cranking the velocity a LOT, as i said earlier. Then I read about how reactivity is at its best with the shortest spring, so I changed it to the shortest and my mag was shooting LOUD. So loud it hurt a bit when I fired. So I lowered the velocity A LOT to the point I thought it was way to low of a velocity. At this point I decided to chronograph my mag and ended up turning it up a bit. When I did this it was in my friends backyard, so the sound was amplified because of the enclosed area. But when I brought it out in the open, it really isn't too loud at all.

2)With the long spring, have you tried cranking the velocity up REALLY high yet?(Just checkin' 'cause not having air was the biggest thing that held me back when tuning my mag)

And just in case:
Clockwise to increase velocity
Counter-clockwise to decrease velocity

[Digler45]

The carrier should not need to be changed with the change of a spring. Changing springs is for changing velocity. As long as your not leaking or having bolt stick, you don't need to change the carrier size.

I have 2 questions:

1)With the short spring, did you try to Chronograph your mag?

When I finished tuning my mag with the short spring I changed it to the long spring to see if there was a noticeable difference in performance. I ended up cranking the velocity a LOT, as i said earlier. Then I read about how reactivity is at its best with the shortest spring, so I changed it to the shortest and my mag was shooting LOUD. So loud it hurt a bit when I fired. So I lowered the velocity A LOT to the point I thought it was way to low of a velocity. At this point I decided to chronograph my mag and ended up turning it up a bit. When I did this it was in my friends backyard, so the sound was amplified because of the enclosed area. But when I brought it out in the open, it really isn't too loud at all.

2)With the long spring, have you tried cranking the velocity up REALLY high yet?(Just checkin' 'cause not having air was the biggest thing that held me back when tuning my mag)

And just in case:
Clockwise to increase velocity
Counter-clockwise to decrease velocity

Hmm, dont know how i missed your post, didnt meant to ignore you.

The tac was chrono'd before it came to me. there was a little recipt style printout that was around the forgrip that had 3 chrono readings. 286.x, 287.x, 286.x.

I seem to have gotten this figured out. I started by cranking the velocity pretty much all the way down. then i installed the middle spring and put it all back together. I then aired it up, and slowly increased the velocity. at first it would not fire at all, so i slowly kept increasing until it did. I increased it to the point where i am guessing it is around 280bps (have not actually chrono'd it). the bolt feels a lot softer on my finger now, i suspect that it probably will not chop paint now. I have also adjusted the ULE so that it is firing quite nicely.

Thank you everyone for your help.