classic RT rebuild question

[Abizdafuzz]

Hey ya'll, I have a bit of a quandry. I just installed a rebuild kit in my Classic RT and now it vents down the barrel and I believe that is caused by the on/off not coming back out to shut it off. I am wondering what I could try to fix this. I have tryed the old o-rings and different pressures and plenty of oil as well. It worked with the old o-rings before the rebuild but not after.

Thanks,
Abiz

[Spider-TW]

The on/off shuts off the air when you pull the trigger. That's why it normally doesn't vent down the barrel when you hold the trigger down.

Does yours vent while the trigger is held down?

Do you have a level 10 bolt?

Is it a stock on/off?

[Abizdafuzz]

The on/off shuts off the air when you pull the trigger. That's why it normally doesn't vent down the barrel when you hold the trigger down.

Does yours vent while the trigger is held down?

Do you have a level 10 bolt?

Is it a stock on/off?

Mine vents once the trigger is pulled the first time and the trigger does not reset. The on/off or sear does not push back out. it is also a stock bolt, with the new spring and bumper.

[Coralis]

I'm going to ask the obvious question but are you sure you didn't forget a part ? Check to make sure the sear moves freely and check the power tube oring .

[Spider-TW]

Did you replace the bolt spring and did you put the frame screws back in with about the same amount of torque?

What color of bolt bumper did you put in?

Is the velocity adjustment about where it should be?

[Abizdafuzz]

All orings are in place, with new ones. The sear moves and I had it moving some last night but it wouldn't shoot then I turned the pressure up on the valve and it blew out the barrel again. Yes, it used the new spring and installed the frame screws to about the same torque as i always use. I used the new clearish bumper that came wit hthe RT parts kit, and I have adjusted the valve/velocity pressure adjuster to both extremes more than once.

It pisses me off that it worked with the old parts, but the new ones wont. Thanks so far guys, I've been trying everything ya got.

[angrysasquatch]

Are you sure you got the right kit? There are kits for classic RTs and also different kits for RT pro's.

[Abizdafuzz]

I guess that could be, but the web site does not show a difference between them and I ordered the one for the classic.

[Spider-TW]

Is it venting while you hold the trigger down? Pull the trigger and do not let it up. Is the marker venting then?

[Abizdafuzz]

Is it venting while you hold the trigger down? Pull the trigger and do not let it up. Is the marker venting then?

Yes it is, but I talked to Roman at AGD tech and he gave me a few things to check. The only thing that I have found now is that the bolt is not returning the whole way back. If I push it back with a stick swab and hold it then it stops venting and the on/off and sear return to the open position untill I let the bolt go and then it vents again.

I switched bolts and spacers out of my classic and it works fairly ok now, but no matter what I adjust the pressure to it RTs at the slightest trigger pull and won't shoot slow single shots just burst or full rt bounce.

[Coralis]

Try reading this thread http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=222287 or if you want the cliff notes version check the regulator seat oring(s)

[Spider-TW]

Sounds like your on/off is not holding pressure.

[Abizdafuzz]

Well, I've been on the phone for 2 days with Roman and I got it to shoot last night with a different bolt and spacer from my other mag, but now the other doesn't work. So it looks liek I need a spacer kit to play with and the o-ring thing from the other thread could have helped a bit, but mine was already moved.
The biggest problem is that the bolt does not return the whole way back, and then it leaks...does that sound like a spacer problem???

[Spider-TW]

Not if it leaks while the trigger is held down.

Without shutting off the air to the valve, there's air pressure pushing against the bolt when it tries to return, which can keep it from latching up and make it run full auto.

If it leaks out of the bolt while the trigger is down, the on/off is not working. Check the top on/off oring and make sure it goes in correctly.

[REDRT]

You know the classic can be temperamental. Sometimes all it is is the body to rail fitment and tightness of the Banjo bolt. I'd be darn sure the body to rail is centered and you can play with the tightness of the bolt. Often if it don't reset the on/off I give an ever so slight turn with the Allen wrench and pop there it goes.

Also Make sure you have enough air to cycle it. Sounds stupid , but it could easily be over looked.