Multiple questions

[punkrex]

just a couple questions for the mag savvy
Current set up
Classic rail with emag valve
800 psi input
LX with #2 carrier, 2 shims
Emag on/off
12v Revvy

1)
This mag RTs and it is very responsive. I can pop off singles with full trigger pulls but it bounces very fast with a light touch. I'm guessing its because of the shorter pin? Why is it common to advise people that in order to RT, they have to have around 1kPsi?

2)
I break balls and its more often than I like (once or twice every 200). I am almost certain I am not short stroking due to the fact that I hardly ever take anywhere near a full pull, do to the reactivity being so short. Besides, LX should prevent those breaks, right?
If I go up a carrier size, she leaks badly after the first shot and their after. Do I remove shims or add shims to increase sensitivity and does this sound like a possible solution?

3)
Does anyone have a black freak L/R twist that would like to trade for my SS one?

[angrysasquatch]

1) It's because you're using an e-mag on/off. Much more responsive than an RT on/off, at lower input pressures. With most guns, with an RT on/off, you need all that pressure for the RT to kick in. I can only assume that there is some sort of a downside to using an e-mag on/off, since so few people go the route of more pressure.

2) I'll let someone else do this one, I haven't fiddled with mine since I got it because that's exactly the sort of thing that gets me fixing at the field instead of playing. It could just be lots of variation in the balls, I always found the best way to avoid chops was through a massively quick loader for the speed I shoot.

3) Nope, that's why I stick to ULE

[punkrex]

yeah I forgot to mention that I was overboaring my Nelson Anarchys.

[lasrsktr]

Were you breaking in the breech(paint on the actual bolt) or were they barrel breaks?

If the breaks were in the barrel than there is really nothing you can do.

[Spider-TW]

The short on/off pin does make your trigger light and responsive. The downside is that it will usually begin chewing on the lip of the bolt because the tip of the sear barely catches it there, rather than holding it with another 0.038 inches. It starts with dings on the edge and works towards and ugly edge that requires a longer pin to hold the bolt. Shims in a ULT is the same effect. With the same trigger, you should get a higher RT rate with more pressure, so more pressure keeps the sear happy and runs a little faster (I get a range around 13 to 19 bps on pressures from about 850 to 1000 on the little gauges).

You have to run close to the edge to see the bolt get beat up. You don't hear much about beat up bolts, so the difference is relatively small or people don't care. I tried a 0.712 pin in a classic pneumag/lvl 10 and it picked up lots of marks in the first few cases of paint, so I put in a 0.728 (iirc) and it seems to be fine (no additional marks) after several more cases.

Try a stiffer spring in your level 10 to lower the force on the ball. Your Lvl 10 should be catching those. With a revvy and an RT, I would think the Lvl 10 would see more action than once every 200, so it may be 'kinda' working.

[punkrex]

Were you breaking in the breech(paint on the actual bolt) or were they barrel breaks?

If the breaks were in the barrel than there is really nothing you can do.

Paint would be breaking in the breech im guessing cause paint would be all over the little view window of the PF and coating the pf plug-- not to mention my barrel

Try a stiffer spring in your level 10 to lower the force on the ball. Your Lvl 10 should be catching those. With a revvy and an RT, I would think the Lvl 10 would see more action than once every 200, so it may be 'kinda' working.

Thanks for the rt info.

My lx kit had raw springs, a standard length, one the same length but is clipped and a longer spring. I'm guessing the longer spring is considered stiffer, the snipped one is medium, and standard the is the softest?
BTW I am running a standard spring.

[Spider-TW]

I'm guessing the longer spring is considered stiffer, the snipped one is medium, and standard the is the softest?
BTW I am running a standard spring.

Yes, the longer springs are stronger. I'm not sure about the clipped spring. I though it was the lightest spring. Your medium (standard) spring may be worn so that it is 'that much' shorter now. If so, there's probably little difference between the two springs that are the same length.

You're right in thinking that longer is not necessarily stronger, but AGD has not altered any of the spring parameters other than length. Most noticeable changes in stiffness in the same kind of bolt spring are from wear. I guess they color coded them so that you would know which one it was after they shortened up or when you didn't have the others to compare it to.

Like you would ever get a lvl 10 without the full kit!

[punkrex]

Like you would ever get a lvl 10 without the full kit!

No doubt!

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try the longer spring.
Rex

[athomas]

You probably don't have to worry about bolt wear on the level 10 as much as with the older level 7 bolts. The forward force of the level 10 is softer, so the lip of the bolt hits much softer when rapid firing using the shortened pin.