Original 68 Automag rebuild

[Spider-TW]

Its a level 7 valve im pretty sure after seeing the pics

A picture of the bolt face would make it easier, Bagheera.

You might also checkout the threads on using the RT on/off in a classic valve. It cuts the trigger pull down noticeably and is an easy drop in.

Don't forget your stab or exp chamber in your concept pictures, they can really mess up a high tech look.

[athomas]

The serial number is high enough that it is definately a level 7. The earlier valves had a clip in the front to keep the powertube section of the valve from separating from the front chamber.

The extra holes in the valve back compensated for the fact that the hole in the front did not line up with the hole in the back and it supposedly affected the recharge rate. In reallity you didn't need all six holes. You only needed 1 that lined up with the one in the front half of the valve.

Your gun looks like a level 7 gun around late 1993 or early 1994 vintage with the standard feed body. It looks like you have a carbon fiber grip frame as well. For comparison purposes, I have an earlier 1993 vintage level 7 with the powerfeed and my serial number is 88**. Mine also had the earlier aluminum grip frame.

As for upgrades, if you are going to run CO2, definately consider a Palmers stabilizer or at least an expansion chamber. A level 10 bolt is always nice to prevent chops when you get into a pickle on the field and your addrenaline causes you to shoot too fast. If you do consider a level 10 bolt, get a new regulator pison as well. The older ones released pressure at a lower value than the newer ones, and due to the higher required operating pressure of the level 10, may not allow your mag to get up to the proper velocity. Putting a retro valve on-off assembly in your valve will cut your trigger pull force from 8lbs to 4lbs, which is always nice. Get the newer plastic nubbins for your barrel. They work better than the older metal ones.

And, because you have a mag, all you really need to do to get your gun on the field, is to give it a good cleaning. You will probably have to replace your regulator seat oring, but other than that, I'll bet it works fine, even with the old orings. That being said, I'd replace all the orings just because of the age and how long they have been sitting. That'll make sure you are starting with a new gun essentially.

[Bagheera]

The serial number is high enough that it is definately a level 7. The earlier valves had a clip in the front to keep the powertube section of the valve from separating from the front chamber.

The extra holes in the valve back compensated for the fact that the hole in the front did not line up with the hole in the back and it supposedly affected the recharge rate. In reallity you didn't need all six holes. You only needed 1 that lined up with the one in the front half of the valve.

Your gun looks like a level 7 gun around late 1993 or early 1994 vintage with the standard feed body. It looks like you have a carbon fiber grip frame as well. For comparison purposes, I have an earlier 1993 vintage level 7 with the powerfeed and my serial number is 88**. Mine also had the earlier aluminum grip frame.

As for upgrades, if you are going to run CO2, definately consider a Palmers stabilizer or at least an expansion chamber. A level 10 bolt is always nice to prevent chops when you get into a pickle on the field and your addrenaline causes you to shoot too fast. If you do consider a level 10 bolt, get a new regulator pison as well. The older ones released pressure at a lower value than the newer ones, and due to the higher required operating pressure of the level 10, may not allow your mag to get up to the proper velocity. Putting a retro valve on-off assembly in your valve will cut your trigger pull force from 8lbs to 4lbs, which is always nice. Get the newer plastic nubbins for your barrel. They work better than the older metal ones.

And, because you have a mag, all you really need to do to get your gun on the field, is to give it a good cleaning. You will probably have to replace your regulator seat oring, but other than that, I'll bet it works fine, even with the old orings. That being said, I'd replace all the orings just because of the age and how long they have been sitting. That'll make sure you are starting with a new gun essentially.

A picture of the bolt face would make it easier, Bagheera.

You might also checkout the threads on using the RT on/off in a classic valve. It cuts the trigger pull down noticeably and is an easy drop in.

Don't forget your stab or exp chamber in your concept pictures, they can really mess up a high tech look.

Some very good tips in here, I'll definitely consider it. As far as risking the high tech look goes, I know I'll have to have an air line and a ball hose both on the right hand side, there's no getting away from that. The stabilizer will cause the tank to jut out a bit more, but I don't have a problem with that. The grip that is mounted under the tank, under the barrel will still give it a "cool" look. I intend on using this gun in both sniper and assault play. The scope on top will be for those long range shots and for scouting, and on the left rail on the Tac-One body, I intend to put an Adco red dot parallax free sight, which will put the site closer to my face without having to lean into the barrel, for quick target acquisition at close range.

So what do you all think of using a 3.5 oz or 9 oz bottle on the front?

[Spider-TW]

Some very good tips in here, I'll definitely consider it.

So what do you all think of using a 3.5 oz or 9 oz bottle on the front?

Three problems to solve:

1) finding a horizontal front ASA (not real hard, but there are some ugly ones)
2) the horizontal mount [bottle] should have an anti-siphon tube
3) hard to integrate the stab or exp chamber

[Bagheera]

Three problems to solve:

1) finding a horizontal front ASA (not real hard, but there are some ugly ones)
2) the horizontal mount should have an anti-siphon tube
3) hard to integrate the stab or exp chamber

I was looking at pics on Palmer's website, and it looks like the stabilizer will push the bottle forward more, but I don't have a problem with that unless the thing becomes super unbalanced. A stabilizer/expansion chamber should take care of most problems with liquid co2 not expanding into a gas, no? Ugly ASA or no, it doesn't matter, as it will be covered with a shroud anyways. Because of all the extra doohickeys on the front due to the co2 needs, I think a 3.5 oz would be ideal, keeping it compact, so I'm thinking I'll need to carry a few co2 bottles in a belt just like I would carry extra Qpods, and change them out at the same time.

[Spider-TW]

Have you hit this Mil-Sim thread yet?

[Bagheera]

Have you hit this Mil-Sim thread yet?

Haven't seen it yet, still new to the forums. Thanks for the heads up.

[Coralis]

Also check out this thread as well .... it sometimes gets off point and rambles a bit but there might be some useful info there Famous gamer tacticle mag thread

[Bagheera]

Also check out this thread as well .... it sometimes gets off point and rambles a bit but there might be some useful info there Famous gamer tacticle mag thread

Oh ya, this is the Snipermag thread. Excellent stuff here, and it's what inspired me to start goofing around with plans for the Park-52 Mag.

[Bagheera]

Seeing as how the female stabilizer from Palmer accepts standard bottle threads, can I skip an ASA? Does this do the job of not just a stabilizer, but an ASA as well?

http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/images/Stab/fem-stab-2.JPG

Looks like I got my answer;

http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/online-catalog/stabilizer-female.htm

" Female bottle threads on the intput end for direct connection to a bottle. Most commonly used in the bottom line position. Gauge can be installed to read regulated pressure upon request."

Playing with the idea of using a 45 degree elbow right in front of the Palmer Female Stabilizer, so it can be integrated into the front grip. I really want form to follow function, so nearly every cosmetic piece on this gun actually has a purpose.

[Spider-TW]

There you go. Don't forget the mount at the bottom of the page. You will still want an anti-siphon tube. Even a stab can't stop a full liquid feed.

[Bagheera]

Details details! Thanks for the reminder.

It's the little things that kill, no?

[jade_monkey07]

i had a dw fibur barrel and now have a hammerhead pro series full 5 fin kit with sharktooth. and personally i prefer the hammerhead. i have no clue if the rifled barrel makes a diffirence or not, but i find it more consistent and i like the look with my tac one

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051246"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303065773.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>

[jade_monkey07]

one thing you could upgrade that wont cost much but makes a diffirence is putting a RT on/off in instead of the stock one. the trigger pull feels slightly lighter and shorter then with the stock on/off

[Bagheera]

i had a dw fibur barrel and now have a hammerhead pro series full 5 fin kit with sharktooth. and personally i prefer the hammerhead. i have no clue if the rifled barrel makes a diffirence or not, but i find it more consistent and i like the look with my tac one

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051246"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303065773.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>

Interesting, my top two were the DW Wispur and the Hammerhead, but I've been leaning towards the Hammerhead. Thanks for another nudge. Your mag looks sharp with the Hammerhead.

one thing you could upgrade that wont cost much but makes a diffirence is putting a RT on/off in instead of the stock one. the trigger pull feels slightly lighter and shorter then with the stock on/off

The trigger pull is one reason I've considered the on/off ASA, but with the Palmer's female stabilizer, I don't need an ASA. However, I keep going back to easier trigger pull reasoning. Is it possible to put the on/off ASA AFTER the stabilizer, or will I have to put it in before the stabilizer? Really, I'm just interested in the on/off function, as the stabilizer will perform the ASA function for me. Any other alternate ideas, such as an inline on/off air switch? Will that be as useful as an on/off ASA?