Original 68 Automag rebuild

[Spider-TW]

The trigger pull is one reason I've considered the on/off ASA, but with the Palmer's female stabilizer, I don't need an ASA. However, I keep going back to easier trigger pull reasoning. Is it possible to put the on/off ASA AFTER the stabilizer, or will I have to put it in before the stabilizer? Really, I'm just interested in the on/off function, as the stabilizer will perform the ASA function for me. Any other alternate ideas, such as an inline on/off air switch? Will that be as useful as an on/off ASA?

Whoa. The ASA on/off has nothing to do with trigger pull. The RT on/off is part of the mag valve.

This thing...

[Bagheera]

Whoa. The ASA on/off has nothing to do with trigger pull. The RT on/off is part of the mag valve.

This thing...

Ah, I had the two mixed up. I had assumed by on/off he meant the ASA, and maybe the airflow affected the trigger pull LOL. I've been out of the game a while. If the on/off is for RT valve markers would it work on the original valve I've got? I don't think it's even classified as an RT. Of course, I could be wrong, I've been wrong before!

Looks like maybe I should get one of these IF I have the right modification, but I don't know what mods I need first;

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358

[jade_monkey07]

Interesting, my top two were the DW Wispur and the Hammerhead, but I've been leaning towards the Hammerhead. Thanks for another nudge. Your mag looks sharp with the Hammerhead.




The trigger pull is one reason I've considered the on/off ASA, but with the Palmer's female stabilizer, I don't need an ASA. However, I keep going back to easier trigger pull reasoning. Is it possible to put the on/off ASA AFTER the stabilizer, or will I have to put it in before the stabilizer? Really, I'm just interested in the on/off function, as the stabilizer will perform the ASA function for me. Any other alternate ideas, such as an inline on/off air switch? Will that be as useful as an on/off ASA?

I should have been more clear, when speaking of mags there are possibly 2 on/offs that need to be addressed. the one your thinking of that you screw your tank into, and the one in the valve seen here

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7239008" target="_blank"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/12/33920515555.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>

the RT on/off comes standard on any rt valve. but fits nicely in classics too.
can be found in the B/S/T usually for 20$

[jade_monkey07]

Ah, I had the two mixed up. I had assumed by on/off he meant the ASA, and maybe the airflow affected the trigger pull LOL. I've been out of the game a while. If the on/off is for RT valve markers would it work on the original valve I've got? I don't think it's even classified as an RT. Of course, I could be wrong, I've been wrong before!

Looks like maybe I should get one of these IF I have the right modification, but I don't know what mods I need first;

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&productID=358

The RT on/off isnt made for classics, but it works great! and as for the ULE trigger kit. unless you want to have your valve milled its not recommended, and can cause shootdown on older valves.
you could always pick up a stock on/off or RT and file down the pin slightly. that would give you a shorter pull. if it doesnt do what you desired then youd have the stock one as a backup

[Bagheera]

The RT on/off isnt made for classics, but it works great! and as for the ULE trigger kit. unless you want to have your valve milled its not recommended, and can cause shootdown on older valves.
you could always pick up a stock on/off or RT and file down the pin slightly. that would give you a shorter pull. if it doesnt do what you desired then youd have the stock one as a backup

As far as increasing my BPS, I've never needed to shoot outrageously fast to score eliminations.

I'm only interested in that which decreases my trigger pressure, so the marker moves less when I'm scoring "those impossible shots." In that case, I don't know what I would need to decrease my trigger pressure yet, but the ULE trigger kit is something I'm barely reading up on now. I defer to the knowledge of the Mag gurus in the forum who have stuck with it all these years, and didn't take a decade long hiatus like I did!

When you referred to valve milling to prevent shootdown, are you referring to this? There was originally only one hole, but when I bought the gun I had the other 5 milled in (back in '93 or so.)

[ljpiller]

Sorry to distract from the topic, but is there any drawback to the RT On/Off? Does it work with CO2? Is there any reason not to put it in a classic valves mag?

[jade_monkey07]

Sorry to distract from the topic, but is there any drawback to the RT On/Off? Does it work with CO2? Is there any reason not to put it in a classic valves mag?

yeah it does work with co2, there isnt any draw backs as far as i know

[jade_monkey07]

you only really get shootdown when shooting at a higher bps. and as for the milling im speaking of. inside where the on/off goes theres a small recess on the classics for an oring that isnt there in the rt's. thats what needs to be milled out

As far as increasing my BPS, I've never needed to shoot outrageously fast to score eliminations.

I'm only interested in that which decreases my trigger pressure, so the marker moves less when I'm scoring "those impossible shots." In that case, I don't know what I would need to decrease my trigger pressure yet, but the ULE trigger kit is something I'm barely reading up on now. I defer to the knowledge of the Mag gurus in the forum who have stuck with it all these years, and didn't take a decade long hiatus like I did!

When you referred to valve milling to prevent shootdown, are you referring to this? There was originally only one hole, but when I bought the gun I had the other 5 milled in (back in '93 or so.)

[Bagheera]

Sorry to distract from the topic, but is there any drawback to the RT On/Off? Does it work with CO2? Is there any reason not to put it in a classic valves mag?

No worries, you are on topic. We're discussing upgrading a classic marker.

[Spider-TW]

you only really get shootdown when shooting at a higher bps. and as for the milling im speaking of. inside where the on/off goes theres a small recess on the classics for an oring that isnt there in the rt's. thats what needs to be milled out

And since you don't have an RT valve, you don't need any milling. The ULT fits in the classic and some people use it in a classic, but it doesn't make the trigger as clean as it does in RT and newer valves. The RT on/off cuts the trigger pull in half compared to the old on/off.

I would say it has better gas flow, but there aren't a lot of old on/offs to compare with that can reach the same rate of fire as modded classics with RT on/offs.

[Bagheera]

And since you don't have an RT valve, you don't need any milling. The ULT fits in the classic and some people use it in a classic, but it doesn't make the trigger as clean as it does in RT and newer valves. The RT on/off cuts the trigger pull in half compared to the old on/off.

I would say it has better gas flow, but there aren't a lot of old on/offs to compare with that can reach the same rate of fire as modded classics with RT on/offs.

Hmmm.... your post intrigues me... (scratches chin)

I could always use a higher BPS even though I don't use the high rate of fire all that often. Even though I'm building a more improved "sniper" rifle (over my stock marker), I'm not foolish enough to fall into the trap of thinking I'll do fine with lower BPS all the damn time. I would like this gun to be able to move into assault mode with nothing more than a change in mindset mid-way through the game, if necessary. Hence, the reason I'd like to carry extra 3.5oz tanks along with more than one Qpod.

[jade_monkey07]

well if you want a stupid light trigger pull and ROF ult is one way. or http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=219595
i have 2 of these on order, one for me and one for my buddy. this is going on my ULE minimag with rt on/off

Hmmm.... your post intrigues me... (scratches chin)

I could always use a higher BPS even though I don't use the high rate of fire all that often. Even though I'm building a more improved "sniper" rifle (over my stock marker), I'm not foolish enough to fall into the trap of thinking I'll do fine with lower BPS all the damn time. I would like this gun to be able to move into assault mode with nothing more than a change in mindset mid-way through the game, if necessary. Hence, the reason I'd like to carry extra 3.5oz tanks along with more than one Qpod.

[Bagheera]

well if you want a stupid light trigger pull and ROF ult is one way. or http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=219595
i have 2 of these on order, one for me and one for my buddy. this is going on my ULE minimag with rt on/off

Wow that's pretty nuts. I don't think my stock level 7 can keep up with it. Maybe a new level 10 could.....

Not sure I want to go THAT extreme!

Pretty good find though, let me know how it works out for you. When I get into buckets of cash again, I'm thinking of making a sick pistol out of a mag, (or two) and this may be the way to go.

[jade_monkey07]

the level 7 doesnt holdback the ROF at all, level 10 just adds in antichop and lighter bolt.
im using the minimag valve wich is lvl 7.

Wow that's pretty nuts. I don't think my stock level 7 can keep up with it. Maybe a new level 10 could.....

Not sure I want to go THAT extreme!

Pretty good find though, let me know how it works out for you. When I get into buckets of cash again, I'm thinking of making a sick pistol out of a mag, (or two) and this may be the way to go.

[Spider-TW]

I don't think my stock level 7 can keep up with it.

If you get a Q-loader, you will probably not miss the level 10 until you get to the last ball out of the pod, if at all. That's what makes a Q-loader really useful; you can't outshoot it without a lot of hardware and effort. The level 10 doesn't shoot notably different, as far as your fingers can tell.

The ULT gets mixed reviews in classic valves, probably because the classic doesn't have much reactivity to kick it back out. The trick seems to be to get the oring to loosen up, which happens in the other valves but they don't have to be loose to work well.

Of course, you would have to have a new frame for the double trigger that goes with that.