My new X-valve issue

[gnnr]

This has likely been addressed somewhere, I suppose, but I couldn't find it. I just received my new X-valve, and installed it and the sear as instructed. I gassed it up and felt the trigger charge, but it wouldn't fire. I turned regulator nut in further. Nothing. I pushed on the bolt from the front to check for bolt stick. It was stuck. I replaced the power tube spacer with the next size longer. (I have successfully installed the level 10 twice before on two older valves, so I have some understanding) No luck. The trigger feels charged but it wont fire. Two notes: with the new valve, the field strip screw does not tighten all the way, leaving a visible gap. A few times I wiggled the valve on the gun and heard a charging sound (fsssht) and a click. It would then fire but not reset. Also my HPA tank has only 1000 PSI in it. It is HP output. I tried it with a stronger spring with no success (although I had an odd experience: I could not remove the valve from the body after depressurizing. The valve seemed to stay pressurized. I then turned in the regulator nut assembly and pushed on the pin and it discharged.) Any ideas?

[secretweaponevan]

Use lots of lube until you get the o-rings broken in. Sounds like you need both a larger carrier, and more shims to get the reset.

Follow the basic LVL 10 quick setup instructions here:

http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

[athomas]

If the field strip screw is not going in far enough to tighten the valve, you need to get a shorter screw or put a washer under that one. A tight fit is essential. After you get the valve tightened properly, do a tuning of your level 10.

Remember to remove all shims when checking for the proper carrier size. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you have problems with the gun not resetting after a "chuff", add shims as needed. Shims don't affect general resetting following a shot.

The valve can hold air after you remove the air source. Be careful when removing the valve that you don't shoot your on-off assembly across the room.

[gnnr]

If the field strip screw is not going in far enough to tighten the valve, you need to get a shorter screw or put a washer under that one. A tight fit is essential. After you get the valve tightened properly, do a tuning of your level 10.

Remember to remove all shims when checking for the proper carrier size. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you have problems with the gun not resetting after a "chuff", add shims as needed. Shims don't affect general resetting following a shot.

The valve can hold air after you remove the air source. Be careful when removing the valve that you don't shoot your on-off assembly across the room.

I have done all of the above. With the largest carrier and no shims, it does not even leak down the barrel. I can dial the velocity nut all the way in- nothing. Just a charged trigger. I need to get more air before I can do anything further. Could I have installed the sear incorrectly? At one point I did get a chuf with no reset. I added a shim and went right back to the same predicament. Right now I am hoping it's just a low air problem.

[Automagrt666]

I had the same problem on a micromag, and it was because the on/off pin had to be shaved down a tad, not 100% sure this is your problem but just putting it out there.

Nick

[athomas]

What kind of sear do you have and what kind of rail did you put it in? You should have been able to just drop the xvalve into the existing setup without any other changes other than tuning the level 10.

[gnnr]

What kind of sear do you have and what kind of rail did you put it in? You should have been able to just drop the xvalve into the existing setup without any other changes other than tuning the level 10.

The new valve came with a sear. The instructions said to install it....so I did. The rail is the classic rail I guess.

[Spider-TW]

I have done all of the above.

Just a check...

What did you do about the field strip screw? If you used a washer, did you put it under the head of the screw? :)

[rawbutter]

Right now I am hoping it's just a low air problem.

This is my guess. A tank with insufficient pressure will set the trigger, but won't give the valve enough psi to overpower the return spring.

I really wouldn't start messing around with stuff until you're absolutely sure that it's not an air problem. If you start changing things around, you may create a whole new problem when all you really need to do is go fill your tank. (Trust me... I've done the exact same thing.)

Fill you tank first... see if that solves it. If it does, you're a happy camper. If it doesn't.... well, then start trying the other suggestions.

[athomas]

The new valve came with a sear. The instructions said to install it....so I did. The rail is the classic rail I guess.

Most xvavles come with a retro sear assembly unless you specifically ask for a classic sear assembly. If you had a classic rail, you need a classic sear. The sear you have is probably a classic sear, or you would never get it in the classic rail. The classic sear is flat. The retro sear has a bushing where the sear pin goes through.

Check that the sear pin that holds the sear in place is pressed down into the slot. If it is not snapped fully into place, the mag won't operate properly.

[gnnr]

Most xvavles come with a retro sear assembly unless you specifically ask for a classic sear assembly. If you had a classic rail, you need a classic sear. The sear you have is probably a classic sear, or you would never get it in the classic rail. The classic sear is flat. The retro sear has a bushing where the sear pin goes through.

Check that the sear pin that holds the sear in place is pressed down into the slot. If it is not snapped fully into place, the mag won't operate properly.

Yup, the sear is flat-no bushing. I did make an effort to push the sear into the rail, however the fit was snug so it's hard to say whether it was all the way seated. I intend to get some air today, and go from there.

[gnnr]

Just a check...

What did you do about the field strip screw? If you used a washer, did you put it under the head of the screw? :)

Yup, under the head. Where else would you put it?

[gnnr]

I got air, made sure the sear was all the way seated, still no luck. I guess I'll call the factory Monday. Man was I looking forward to this valve. Thanks for helping out. I'd appreciate any more ideas you might have.

[gnnr]

AHA! I got it. I think they sent me a bunk sear. I put the old one in and there she went. Soft bolt even, with no shims. But I have the small spring in. I compared the two sears. The only difference: one was a bit more pronounced where it grabs the bolt. Any chance it just wouldn't release the bolt? Thanks much!

[Spider-TW]

Yup, under the head. Where else would you put it?

Sometimes people have put spacers under the reg body in an attempt to keep the laser etching aligned.

Like I said, just checking

On your sear, was the trigger rod adjustment the same, as well as the on/off end?