Making a Palmer's Stab LP

[Stayhuge]

Hi everyone. Does anyone know what has to be done to get a Palmer's Stabilizer to run LP for a Pneumag? Looking for 60-80 psi. Thanks everyone.

[rawbutter]

If you haven't already bought one, the Palmer's Fatty stabilizer is already sprung for low pressure, so just buy that. You can ask them to drill/tap an extra HP outlet, or you can just buy a T fitting like I did.

If you already have a high pressure stabilizer, then you can buy a low-pressure spring kit from their website and install it yourself. It's not that difficult.

[Stayhuge]

Cool, but I noticed that the description on the website says that it is adjustable from 0-800psi. Does anyone know if it is really necessary to put the spring kit in? Thanks

[rawbutter]

I suppose it might not be necessary. It might be harder to hit the "optimal" psi if the range is from 0-800. Ideally, you want just enough pressure to activate the pneumatics (which is about 40-80psi... depending on your particular set-up). If you have too much, you'll be wasting air, and the trigger won't be as light.

So sure... it will work, but it just might not be optimal. But if you're okay with that.... then do it. It's your gun.

(You can always build the pneumag without the LP kit in the stabilizer... and if it turns out you don't like it, buy the kit later and add it in.)

[Stayhuge]

(You can always build the pneumag without the LP kit in the stabilizer... and if it turns out you don't like it, buy the kit later and add it in.)

I think this is what I am going to do. Good point about hitting the right pressure. Thanks

[Spider-TW]

You might get the HP spring to work in a palmer stab for a pneu mag. There are two fundamental drawbacks;

1) If the reg has four turns (for example) to go from 0-800psi, you're operating in the first turn between one quarter to less than a half of a turn.

2) more importantly, at lower pressures the piston still has to move to regulate between no flow and full flow. 10 psi differential across the low pressure spring will get you a lot more flow than 10 psi differential across the high pressure spring, so you can end up starving your circuit. Additionally, larger piston travel means tighter pressure control because the oring sticking is small and doesn't contribute as much to the response. If the piston is only going to move a small amount, the forces of the orings become significant (wider variations in pressure).

Since the typical pneumag hardware doesn't use much flow compared to propelling the paintball, the palmer should be able to keep up. However, the pressure will probably fluctuate significantly more with a high pressure sping than with a low pressure spring that fits the working range better.

[Stayhuge]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I actually ordered the kit. I figured I have already spent upwards of $650/700 on this thing, what's another $40. In addition, this has to do with the trigger and firing, so I really should mess around, LOL. Thanks again

[rawbutter]

I have already spent upwards of $650/700 on this thing, what's another $40.

Exactly. Do it right, or don't do it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Spider-TW]

It's amazing how an $80 mod turns into several hundred isn't it?

[Stayhuge]

It's amazing how an $80 mod turns into several hundred isn't it?

Exactly!!! I say that every day!!

[Pneumagger]

I've gotten stock Stabs to work just fine @ 80psi very consistently.

[Smoothice]

I've gotten stock Stabs to work just fine @ 80psi very consistently.

Thats exactly what I was hoping to read. I will be using a stock stab for my Gforce pneuframe. I'm hoping it works great. If not, there goes another $40 bucks for a lp kit.

[Pneumagger]

I must say, if using a new stab or fatty make sure it's broken in well. My fatty did a poor job @ 70psi until I shot about a case through it. Now it never creeps and works better than any LPR I ever used (except a Palmers Rock).
The Fatty should be better suited to the low pressures because of the large piston, but I never noticed a difference compared to a Stab.