2 questions...

[FIST2CUFF]

#1. I have had my Tac for awhile (my first mag and love it!) but am curious about the fluctuations in the fps when chronographing. Most fields that I frequent have a limit of 280 fps and when I adjust my x-valve of course I get close but it will fluctuate from 250-280 or even 220-280 when chronographing. I use HPA and I understand that temp. can have an effect on this but this is the case whenever I chrono. Now maybe I am being picky but this seems like alot. Previously I had an a-5 and its consistancy with fps wasnt great but then again I would expect that. Is this normal for the x-valve? If so then no problem and I will stop being so picky. If not then can I use a regulator to decrease that margin? I have a fairly new Palmers reg. collecting dust.
#2. My last game I had alot of paint breaking in the breach of the mainbody were the feed tube (is this the correct name?) threads into the mainbody. I have a left side feed warp mainbody. I am fairly confident that the cause of the breaks was the paint which I am sure was rather old because the same stuff has been at this place for awhile and that I have seldom had this problem before. I only play woods/scenerio ball and use a single trigger frame so I am not shooting paint very fast. But I noticed that when I would pull off the mainbody to clean it out I would see some paint on the notch of the rail that accommodates the feed tube when its assembled. So I looked at the bottem of the mainbody and can see that there is a space between were the threading ends on the feed tube of the mainbody and the mainbody. So what happens is that when paint breaks it sprays out of this space between the mainbody and the rail. The feed tube is flush with the mainbody and does not appear to be lose. Does this description make sense and is this normal?
Thanks for any help!!

[FIST2CUFF]

So I guess neither of these is a problem?

[georgeyew]

the feed tube (is this the correct name?) threads into the mainbody.

That's call the barrel.

[mstrdbz]

#1. I have had my Tac for awhile (my first mag and love it!) but am curious about the fluctuations in the fps when chronographing. Most fields that I frequent have a limit of 280 fps and when I adjust my x-valve of course I get close but it will fluctuate from 250-280 or even 220-280 when chronographing. I use HPA and I understand that temp. can have an effect on this but this is the case whenever I chrono. Now maybe I am being picky but this seems like alot. Previously I had an a-5 and its consistancy with fps wasnt great but then again I would expect that. Is this normal for the x-valve? If so then no problem and I will stop being so picky. If not then can I use a regulator to decrease that margin? I have a fairly new Palmers reg. collecting dust.
#2. My last game I had alot of paint breaking in the breach of the mainbody were the feed tube (is this the correct name?) threads into the mainbody. I have a left side feed warp mainbody. I am fairly confident that the cause of the breaks was the paint which I am sure was rather old because the same stuff has been at this place for awhile and that I have seldom had this problem before. I only play woods/scenerio ball and use a single trigger frame so I am not shooting paint very fast. But I noticed that when I would pull off the mainbody to clean it out I would see some paint on the notch of the rail that accommodates the feed tube when its assembled. So I looked at the bottem of the mainbody and can see that there is a space between were the threading ends on the feed tube of the mainbody and the mainbody. So what happens is that when paint breaks it sprays out of this space between the mainbody and the rail. The feed tube is flush with the mainbody and does not appear to be lose. Does this description make sense and is this normal?
Thanks for any help!!

Sounds to me like both of your problems are related to the paint. If the paint is old, it can cause what appears to be chrono fluctuations, due to the paint being misshapen and different sizes, as some may have swelled up due to the sitting. It could also be the cause of your breaking, as you theorized.

Try using the RT Chrono Procedure when you chrono, if your not already, that will help eliminate some of the variance.

Also, do you use a warp or a q-loader?

[Spider-TW]

Sounds like it could be a level 10 problem too. Really bad paint can get some wide variations. I occasionally shoot 'party mix' and it varies with about a 20 fps spread. The breaks should not be that bad though.

Since your upper limit stays at 280, I would say your reg is doing fine for now. Make sure your ball detent is not hung up.

Check the level 10 tuning and troubleshooting threads.

[FIST2CUFF]

#2. My last game I had alot of paint breaking in the breach of the mainbody where the feed tube (is this the correct name?) threads into the mainbody. I have a left side feed warp mainbody.

I have a left side warp feed and I do not have any additional reg on my marker. It is stock.

Since your upper limit stays at 280, I would say your reg is doing fine for now. Make sure your ball detent is not hung up.

I have a used reg that I could use on it but have not put it on yet because I am curious if this would even help. I will also check the ball detent. I am sure that the paint being old had alot to do with the paint breaks but It never crossed my mind that it might effect my fps. My marker would cycle fine for (example) about 30 shots then ppphhhhhh, a ball would break. Prior to this I have had very little problem with breaks. I will see about checking the valve. The other issue is the space between where the threading ends on the feed "barrel" and the mainbody. If you look at the mainbody from the top the feed "barrel" is flush against the mainbody. But when you turn it over and look at the bottem that is where you can see the threading on the feed "barrel". That is also where you can see that the threading ends and the feed "barrel" continues into the mainbody. Where the threading ends there is an open space. I do not think it is a problem, I just need to know if this is normal. I would think the threading would continue into the mainbody and to the end of the feed "barrel". When paint breaks in the breach it sprays a little paint out of this space. Could some of you with warp left feeds take a look at the bottem of your mainbody to see if this is normal.
Thanks for the help and info!! You guys are great!!

[mstrdbz]

I have a left side warp feed and I do not have any additional reg on my marker. It is stock.:

Okay, just so everyone's clear here: You have a warp left body, like this one -


And that the area circled in red is where the liquid paint in escaping?

Now, I personally have never owner a warp body, but judging by your description - "If you look at the mainbody from the top the feed "barrel" is flush against the mainbody. But when you turn it over and look at the bottem that is where you can see the threading on the feed "barrel"." - it sounds like the feedneck (feed "barrel") is not installed correctly. But again I have no experience with the warp bodies, someone who knows more about them could probably help you better.

I have a used reg that I could use on it but have not put it on yet because I am curious if this would even help.

A second reg would only starve your mag. The mag valve requires at least 650 psi to operate correctly, and most of the regs I've seen take your tanks' output down to the 450 psi range.

As far as the breaking paint, if you are using a warpfeed -


You might need to adjust the dwell on the warp itself. Instructions for that can be found here: http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...structions.pdf

If you are using a q-loader -


Again I have no experience with one, so someone who has used them would be more able to help.

[craltal]

The reg Spyder-TW is talking about is the one that's part of your x-valve.

It's not your feed "barrel" feed tube or warp feed neck are good enough descriptors, you were correct the first time around.
---

I would think that it's most likely the paint for both problems. As for the gap, when you have liquid paint inside a gun, you'd be amazed where it finds its way. If the tube is screwed in securely, straight, and there are no sharp edges, I wouldn't worry about the gap. It could just be a factor of mating two cylinders together will always leave a bit of a gap. Take a paper towel or a cloth and with a finger, run it along the area in question on the inside. If you don't get any snags, you should be fine.

[FIST2CUFF]

And that the area circled in red is where the liquid paint in escaping?

mstrdbz, that is exactly where I am describing!! Thanks for the graphic help! I am using a warp feed and have the dwell turned down. Since I use a single trigger I do not need it to feed very fast.

The reg Spyder-TW is talking about is the one that's part of your x-valve.

That would explain alot! I understand.

It's not your feed "barrel" feed tube or warp feed neck are good enough descriptors, you were correct the first time around

So feed neck is the correct name??

As for the gap, when you have liquid paint inside a gun, you'd be amazed where it finds its way. If the tube is screwed in securely, straight, and there are no sharp edges, I wouldn't worry about the gap. It could just be a factor of mating two cylinders together will always leave a bit of a gap. Take a paper towel or a cloth and with a finger, run it along the area in question on the inside. If you don't get any snags, you should be fine.

I dry the inside of the mainbody with a strip of t-shirt after washing and have never had a problem with it catching on anything so it must not be a problem. I guess even though I can see that the threading ended the remainder of the tube/barrel/neck that is on the inside must come flush with the inside of the mainbody. As long as it is not a problem then I am happy. Again thank all of your for your help and info!! Hope you all have a great Christmas!!

[craltal]

yes, feed neck is appropriate.

without having a sealant on the threads, it's likely you'll have some liquid leak through if there is enough of it and some added pressure behind it. (i'm not suggesting you seal them, just saying)

[FIST2CUFF]

Sealing the threads will not help because there are only 4 threads then a space. Here is a pic:

This view is of the bottom of the mainbody. I have a white arrow (piece of paper) pointing to the space. If you look (from right to left) you see the feed tube going into the mainbody, then you see the threading (exactly 4 threads), then a small space between the threading and the mainbody. The feed tube continues into the mainbody but since the threading ends there is a space along the surface on the feed tube and the mainbody which is open. Just like a smaller pipe inside a larger pipe, there is an open space between the inside surface of the larger pipe and the outer surface of the smaller pipe. I decided to post the pic so that all could see exactly what I was describing. Probably should have done this in the first place. So far from the replies it seems normal and most have never even noticed it before although I would like to get a reply from someone that also has a warp left Tac mainbody that has looked at theirs. Again thanks for all the help and info!! You guys are great!

[craltal]

by the looks of it, I'd say what you experienced in terms of paint leaking out is normal. It's not like that joint needs to be air-tight so liquid paint would definitely work it's way out of there.

[athomas]

Fluctuations are most likely due to variances in paint. Use a good quality paint and your problems will most likely go away. The breaking is probably the same issue. To combat part of this problem, use a large bore barrel. That way you can use almost any paint they throw at you and velocity fluctuations and breaks will be minimized.