Questions... x-valve, intelliframe,ect

[DanMan]

I recently purchased an automag classic on ebay , I had done some resarch and thought that it would be great for a second marker. I am mainly a woodsball player so the idea of eventually being able to upgrade to the x-valve was a major plus as I dont want to fool around with electronics ( I have a 98c with cyclone and RT ). Anyway I wanted to ask all of you some questions

First: how good is the x-valve compared to the classic and how does the xvalve compare to a tippmann RT trigger?

Second: how good is the intelli with the classic vs with the x valve?

Third: How well does the ult trigger kit work with the classic valve?

I already have the ule body and a freak barrel so I the idea is that I am trying to figure out the next thing to get. Also, the reason I want to know about the intelli, is that $100 is alot to spend for somthing that may not help preformance wise (though it looks awesome), I know double triggers help electros alot but my experence with the tippmann double trigger was that with mecanicals it does not help.

Any tips will be fully appreciated

[SkinnyHare]

1st haven't seen a tippmann RT yet that i've been impressed with. i'm not saying they're bad markers, just that they don't do it for me compared to a 'mag. classic valves and RTs both have their perks. i still keep the classic valves from my minimags for certain occasions.

2nd intelliframe works great for either. if you're using an x-valve, the double trigger length on the intelli makes the sweet spot easier to find for some people. i've got an intelli on one with an x-valve and the standard one on another with an x-valve and haven't had problems hitting the sweet spot with either. i've used both on a classic RT and same thing. getting that sweet spot is more about having things tuned properly, having a good air source, and knowing how it feels on your finger and how much pressure to put on it.

3rd haven't got a ULT in any of my mags so couldn't say.

before you do anything... the first thing you need to do is get a lvl 10 kit in there. that thing is a godsend. getting that and an intelliframe, followed by a trigger job, would probably the least expensive route and be able to throw a mean amount of paint downrange. you could try that out and decide what you want to do from there.

[DanMan]

Was the site down for every one else over chrismas? I could not access it until today. Anyways, thanks for the info!!

Also, I ran into somthing about the rt valve on how it will fluctuate in velocity when rapid fireing. Is this fixed in the x-valve? And if not, how much will this effect accuracy?
thanks

[SkinnyHare]

a lot of it will depend on how you shoot. i had a buddy who grabbed an RT when it first came out and for a while he was constantly sending people off the field with some good sized welts, yet he'd chrono at 290 going onto the field and coming off. he'd register good going out there because it would just be one shot, wait, one shot, wait, one shot just like everyone else at the chrono. on the field though, he'd lay down whole streams of paint and when you work the valve like that it heats up and the pressure rises, making for hotter shots than you had at the chrono. after the game, there was enough time for the assembly and pressure in the RT valve to settle back down and he would actually be shooting with LESS fps for a couple shots than he was when he was at the chrono before the game.

my RT is the same way, but not nearly as severe as his was. as far as i know i never caused anyone a big bloody welt. mine will hop from a 290 to somewhere around 310ish. the easy way around it is to just base your chrono off what you're shooting at while it's hot. instead of one shot, read, wait, repeat... go more towards, fire a bunch, read, quickly repeat. the fluctuation (if it's going to happen) usually shows up the first few rounds of a volley if there is a really really long break in between volleys rather than just being a random occurrence. i suppose you could think of it like this... Mum doesn't just throw cookies into a cold oven to bake, she pre-heats it first for best results. in my opinion, doing it that way at the chrono is more realistic anyhow. i say that from the standpoint that mags are designed to put a high volume of paint down range accurately in a very short time, not to play like a sniper wannabe with a 68 trracer (i'll probably catch all kinds of hell from the guys out there with the pump conversion for saying that).

not sure if this is what you read, but it's a good resource if you haven't. http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/rtchrono.shtml

i can't say i've ever noticed that happen with my X-valves, but the thing is an X-valve, ReTro valve, Emag, and RT vavle are all basically the same thing. the only differences are in the construction materials and in the case of the original RT, how it's fed. it's hardly a deal breaker and i doubt anyone would dump any flavor of RT over that issue.

[DanMan]

Thanks, that clears up some questions. I think i will just get the x-valve as it comes with lvl10.

You say you dont like the tippmann rt, but is is compareable in any way to the xvalve in trigger feel and rt action? If it is, then the xvalve will be awesome as i can achive a high rate of fire with the tippy rt.

[SkinnyHare]

dunno how your tippmann's RT was, but probably won't quite match rates of fire with an AGD one. it should bounce under your finger the same tho. i don't know what your tank's output PSI is at, so it might be kinda weak and never really bounce, just kinda push against your finger. going straight to an X valve is fine, but you're looking at close to $300 for a new one (no trade in) v. about $70 for a lvl 10 kit.