Twist lock

[lidocaine]

A twistlock barrel has a slot that you line up with a small nub ( whats this called) inside of an AGD proclassic.When you slide the twistlock barrel in, and turn it counter clockwise, it locks.
Why is there a full T slot on the barrel and not just the top left side, because thats the only side being used? a T minus the top right side.So its like a right side up L then turned left?

Sorry if this seems extremely vague( because it is), but its the only way I could describe it over the intorwebz.

1.Anything I should know about my Tac-One ( main gun) before I go to the field tomorrow?
.Its brand new, never been shot and I got it from tunamart.( GO TUNA GO!)

2.Should I put the red spring in now, and if its too high of a velocity, put the medium spring in?

3.If it leaks down the barrel, its usually too big of a carrier, right, move down one size until it stops?

4.What if I get bolt stick, how is this fixed?


Ive heard these are more of the common ones so I figured I should know the basics so I dont go to the field, it doesnt work and then I dont have a gun to play with.

Thanks alot, sorry for so many questions.

[snoopay700]

a twistlock barrel has a slot that you line up with a small nub ( whats this called) inside of an AGD proclassic.When you slide the twistlock barrel in, and turn it counter clockwise, it locks.
Why is there a full T slot on the barrel and not just the top left side, because thats the only side being used? a T minus the top right side.So its like a right side up L then turned left?

Sorry if this seems extremely vage( because it is), but its the only way I could describe it over the intorwebz.

1.Anything I should know about my Tac-One ( main gun) before I go to the field tomorrow?
.Its brand new, never been shot and I got it from tunamart.

2.Should I put the red spring in now, and if its too high put the medium stock spring in?


3.If it leaks down the barrel, its usually too big of a carrier, right, move down one size until it stops?

4.What if I get bolt stick, how is this fixed?


Ive heard these are more of the common ones so I figured I should know the basics so I dont go to the field, it doesnt work and then I dont have a gun to play with.

Thanks alot, sorry for so many questions.

Because people are righties and others are lefties, so that allows for both a hopper left and hopper right marker (if i'm understanding what you mean correctly) and that pin is simply called a twist lock assembly i believe.

As for the spring, the only one that can judge that is you based on how the marker shoots, most likely you'll be fine with the medium one.

Yeah, move down until it stops but not too much or you'll get bolt stick. Also, after the o-ring breaks in you may need to move to another lower carrier.

I've never encountered this problem but from what i hear it may be that your field strip screw or your front grip frame screw could be too tight. I've got a classic body and they're different from the ULE and Tac bodies so this is all i could chalk it up to, unless there's another problem that i don't know about.

Oh, one more thing, this should be in the tech forum.

[NewbieMagMan10988]

***EDIT***
^ Beat me to the chase
***EDIT***


The "T" slot milling in your barrel is to make it work on both right and left hand feed bodies. There is no need to worry about the other side of the "T".

I've never had a LVL10 mag, so I can't help you with the other questions, but I'm sure you can find what you need. You might try the Automags Tech section.

Good luck!

Mike

[secretweaponevan]

1.Anything I should know about my Tac-One ( main gun) before I go to the field tomorrow?
.Its brand new, never been shot and I got it from tunamart.

I would suggest reading, re-reading, and re-re-reading everything you can on the lvl 10 before you get to the field. Print out the tuning guide and bring it with you. Bring a towel and allen wrenches so you have a good comfortable place to tech your marker. Nothing like a leak before a game to send you into a panic where you will forget what to do.

Is the carrier o-ring broken in yet? Do you have air so you can test your marker tonight?

[lidocaine]

I dont have air, and I dont believe the carrier o ring is broken in.( I got it from tunamart, not sure if he pre tunes his markers he sells).

When changing the carrier, I dont have to take off the old carrier o ring and put it on the new carrier, do I?

Should the basic level 10 tuning guide be enough? Or should I search further than just that?

Thanks for the helpful information,Lido

[snoopay700]

I dont have air, and I dont believe the carrier o ring is broken in.( I got it from tunamart, not sure if he pre tunes his markers he sells).

When changing the carrier, I dont have to take off the old carrier o ring and put it on the new carrier, do I?

Should the basic level 10 tuning guide be enough? Or should I search further than just that?

Thanks for the helpful information,Lido

When tuning, if it leaks, take the o-ring that is in the carrier and move to the next size down with the same o-ring. Hope this helps.

[athomas]

2.Should I put the red spring in now, and if its too high put the medium stock spring in?


3.If it leaks down the barrel, its usually too big of a carrier, right, move down one size until it stops?

4.What if I get bolt stick, how is this fixed?

2. The red spring is the medium spring. The "stock spring" is the short gold one.

3. A leak down the barrel is generally a carrier that is too big or too many powertube shims. Remove the shims first. If it still leaks, use the next smaller carrier size. Always use the same white powertube oring.

4. Bolt stick is generally caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove the shims when changing carrier sizes to make sure you don't get a shim induced leak. Use a larger carrier (the largest one that doesn't leak).

[Tunaman]

You shouldn't worry about any of this yet. Don't get all confused. You do not need any tuning info right now. The gun wont leak...and you won't have to change the carrier. I make them a hair tight so you wont have to change anything. Just make sure to chrono it before playing. Call me if you have any problems on the field.

[Tunaman]

a twistlock barrel has a slot that you line up with a small nub ( whats this called) inside of an AGD proclassic.When you slide the twistlock barrel in, and turn it counter clockwise, it locks.
Why is there a full T slot on the barrel and not just the top left side, because thats the only side being used? a T minus the top right side.So its like a right side up L then turned left?

Sorry if this seems extremely vage( because it is), but its the only way I could describe it over the intorwebz.

1.Anything I should know about my Tac-One ( main gun) before I go to the field tomorrow?
.Its brand new, never been shot and I got it from tunamart.

2.Should I put the red spring in now, and if its too high put the medium stock spring in?


3.If it leaks down the barrel, its usually too big of a carrier, right, move down one size until it stops?

4.What if I get bolt stick, how is this fixed?


Ive heard these are more of the common ones so I figured I should know the basics so I dont go to the field, it doesnt work and then I dont have a gun to play with.

Thanks alot, sorry for so many questions.

I didn't send you a twist lock barrel for the Tac did I?

[lidocaine]

Thanks for the reassurance tuna!

You sent me the correct barrel indeed.The barrel im talking about is for my AGD proclassic I picked up for a couple bucks.Couldnt pass the deal up

But a couple more questions..

When do you know you need to move up or down to a different color spring?( stock is weakest,red is medium, and gray is strongest?)

And what is the purpose of the shims in the level 10? how do you know when to increase or decrease the numbers on these?

Thanks thanks thanks,Lido

[Coralis]

check out this video for installation of a level 10 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

[lidocaine]

When do you know you need to move up or down to a different color spring?( stock is weakest,red is medium, and gray is strongest?)

And what is the purpose of the shims in the level 10? how do you know when to increase or decrease the numbers on these?

what kind of quick disconnects are needed to run from valve to foregrip, then foregrip to asa?( male or female, this is running SS btw.)

[athomas]

If the bolt is hitting the ball with too much force, causing breaks, then you need to go to the next longer, stiffer spring. If the gun won't fire consistently, then you need to go to the next lighter spring. The rule of thumb for an ideal setup, is that your operating velocity should be about 20fps above the lowest setting that the gun will fire at.

The shims determine how far the bolt needs to travel before it can release air and reset itself. If you fire the gun and the bolt can't cycle due to a blockage in the breach, it needs to be able to vent enough air to allow the bolt spring to push it back into position. Almost any blockage will allow some movement. The amount of movement required is determined by the tolerances in your gun and the number of shims installed. Most of the time, the bolt can move far enough, even without any shims. Shims can be installed to shorten the distance if the bolt moves forward, the gun doesn't fire, but also does not release air to reset. Too many shims can cause to vent hole to be too near the vent hole and it could randomly leak air between shots. Often this phenomenon is accidently mistaken as a carrier leak and and a tighter carrier is used to stop the leak resulting in bolt stick issues.

I run a female disconnect on my hose going to my foregrip and the male end on a 90 degree elbow into my valve. I use 90 elbows into the bottom of my foregrip and into the side of my bottom line ASA. Use whatever configuration fits your look and/or style.