Pneumag on/off

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  • captian pinky
    Bearded Works

    • Oct 2004
    • 2755

    #16
    well if there isnt a piece in the mpa3 that sticks out to puch the sear then u have a little work todo

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    • Spider-TW
      U R techno-literate!

      • Oct 2006
      • 3554

      #17
      Originally posted by bjyourk
      Spider, do you mean to say that there SHOULD be a gap between the sear and mpa ?
      Yes, there should be just the slightest gap. It guarantees that the MPA-3 piston is not keeping the sear from latching up completely. It could be as large as 1/16", but any gap you can see when the marker is pressured up should be fine.

      You don't HAVE to modifiy the sear, but if you are auto firing, the sear hitting the MPA-3 at the end of the bolt return is a definite candidate for the problem. You don't want to mess with the MPA-3 mounting. You can sand a little metal off of the MPA-3 ram where it hits the sear, or sand a little metal off of the sear where the ram hits it.

      It's easier to pull the sear out in your hands and sand it off in the right spot. It's easy to do, easy to clean up, and you should NOT be taking off enough to get into the clevis mounting hole, so you will not be ruining your sear. Like I mentioned before, where the MPA-3 hits the sear is not a normal working surface. It will actually be some tenths of a gram lighter, just like the new parts of latest and greatest markers! You shouldn't need to take off more than about 1/32" (maybe a little more) if catches the bolt sometimes.

      You can sand or grind the MPA-3 ram down, but it's harder to get to and you need to keep the metal particles out of it.

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