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The have instalation fees for complex things like level 10 kits, but to be honest a warp feed and an x valve will take 15mins tops to install. The x valve is a straigh replacement for your current valve (and should come tuned to the basic level of performance for the anti chop bolt, and the warp feed bolts on like an ASA. Just be sure you have screws long enough to attach the warp feed to your grip frame.
My advice is that your gun is fine as is and doesnt necessarily need an x valve. If you do want an x valve I recomend doing a cost comparason to buying an x valve and buying an RT ULE custom
(which comes with an x valve, and upgrades are discounted when buying one new).
MY question is how can you be a full time student AND work 50 hours a week????!!
(I am ignoring the part about being a parrent since throwing that into the mix makes the whole scenario beyond my comprehension :P )
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Originally posted by TaoThe have instalation fees for complex things like level 10 kits, but to be honest a warp feed and an x valve will take 15mins tops to install. The x valve is a straigh replacement for your current valve (and should come tuned to the basic level of performance for the anti chop bolt, and the warp feed bolts on like an ASA. Just be sure you have screws long enough to attach the warp feed to your grip frame.
My advice is that your gun is fine as is and doesnt necessarily need an x valve. If you do want an x valve I recomend doing a cost comparason to buying an x valve and buying an RT ULE custom (which comes with an x valve, and upgrades are discounted when buying one new).
MY question is how can you be a full time student AND work 50 hours a week????!! (I am ignoring the part about being a parrent since throwing that into the mix makes the whole scenario beyond my comprehension :P )
It's hard but I go to night classes. My wife knows all the stress I have in my life that she understands that playing paintball is my stress relief. Thank you for your response and I just got a little leery when I read all the feedback about the X-Valve. I have read about the springs and spacers and turning the velocity up and all that, and I just don't have time to have these issues come up. I just wanted to send it off and have it setup and ready to go. I have shot this gun and I want something a little faster. I own a Rat Impulse with the WAS Equalizer board in it and I love the paint it throws out but I wanted a woods ball marker and the Automag was my choice. Now I just want it to throw more paint and some people told me about the X-Valve. I love the looks of the Classic 68 and I just wanted to upgrade it. I believe I will purchase the X-Valve and install it myself, in hopes I have no problems. I installed the WAS board on my Impulse with no problems so maybe I will get the same results with the X-Valve.Comment
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The x-valve in a classic by itself will not get you much. The trigger is about half the pull weight, but you can have that for the price of an RT on/off in your classic valve. You will need an HPA system for an x-valve also.
x-valve upgrades require a fast supply of air, paint and fingers. To take advantage of an x-valve, you need a high pressure HPA reg @ 900+ psi (reactive single trigger) and/or a ULT kit. You can make a ULT bounce on a single trigger frame and a regular HPA reg, but it's not easy to work with. With just the ULT, you need an intellframe or some other double finger frame for walking. If you're slingging a steady 10bps, you will probably want a barrel kit eventually. That means a ULE body probably.
This is why Tao was suggesting the RT ULE custom. By the time you buy all the upgrades, its cheaper to buy it all together. You could just sell off your 68 on AO. There is also a lot of value in putting the basic stuff together yourself (whatever AGD will not do). Your level 10 will need tuning or you'll have some other problem at the field anyway. It's pretty common that a factory tuned marker will need to be retuned after the seals break in.
I had a friend that worked full time at night and went to school full time. He couldn't study at work either. He didn't sleep. I think he could have pulled it off if he ate better. I hope your wife is cooking for you.
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Originally posted by Lude55
The x valve should come more or less pretuned. Don't wory about springs at all since the main bolt spring will work just fine. You only need to wory about springs if you want to really fine tune the anti chop (which I have not yet needed to do after owning 3 level 10s).
Also another idea would be to drop the money you would pay for an xvalve into an electronic grip frame. The stock valve can still performe between 12-15bps (depending on the valve) which is more than enough for anything outside of tournament speedball
A ULT can give you great performance, but from what you have said I doubt it is what you are looking for. It is hard to set up and learn to use, and you need an xvalve for it to work properly, so this would lean more towards looking at an RT ULE custom instead.Comment
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We were just testing to see where you're at.
HPA = high pressure air
X-valves don't like CO2, so an x-valve will lead you to an HPA tank which is about $150+/- new for a good 4500 psi model.
For about $30 (iirc less, used) you can get an RT on/off from AGD or themagsmith.com. It is the on/off designed for the RT pro, but it works well in the classic too. Pull out your old classic on/off from the valve and put the RT on/off in and you have half the trigger pull weight. CO2 or air. The classic valve is a little iffy with the ULT and I really don't know how well it works with CO2 in a classic. I know they work well with air in a classic after they get worn in.
I think there is an upgrade faq in the stickies. Be sure and pick through those before you spend much on upgrades. It's an endless path/bottomless pit.
If you are shooting CO2 and are happy with that, the RT on/off and an intelliframe (double trigger frame) will get you an easier 8-10 bps. Lukes customs (lukescustoms.com) does trigger stops that will help some too. I guess you could hack the trigger guard and just install a $20 double trigger, but I don't expect that from someone looking at warp feeds.
The main thing you miss on a classic is the level 10 bolt, which is about $85 new. For a steady rate of fire, you need either a force feed loader (q-loader, warp, halo, etc.) or a level 10 bolt kit.
Check out the MOTM (mag of the month) threads too. Just play with what you have until you see what you want. There's plenty of people here that run CO2 classics. When you get a specific question, post it in a separate thread. Pictures of your marker (old or new) help stir interest (some people have to have them )
You may have mistaken this mag faq sticky as a rules list.Comment
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ok.....
And after all that, ebay could be the way to go too, since you can get a RT pro with an x valve for less than a new x valve would be anywayOriginally posted by Lude55Wow , ok this is where I get lost in all the Automag lingo. I am all new to Automag period so I will need some help with some of your suggestions. First thing is I looked up the RT ULE custom and just from my taste in markers I was not a huge fan of the way it looks but its not that bad. I followed the website to choose options for the RT ULE and after it was said and done it was over $600 dollars with a Warp Feed. I was thinking I could upgrade my Classic 68 to shoot a little faster and with a lighter trigger pull for around $400. Is there not an easy way to upgrade my Classic 68 for this price range? Will a X-Valve and a frame with a double trigger not do what I want? Some people say the X-Valve is what I need and others are saying the X-Valve will not be enough. I wanted something that is comparable if not better than the Tippmann response system. I'm not looking to be shooting 18 to 20 balls a second. I was looking for a good woods ball marker that will put out some good paint when I need it. I fell in love with the Warp Feed system after my friend put one on his Classic 68, so I know I will put this upgrade on it.
"For the price range" is the key point. You can upgrade your classic as much as you want, but it can amount to close to what buying a brand new RT custom would be...There are many... from the old Booyahs to the new Pneu MAG conversions. I dont know much about them other than you can find some of them, especially used, for fairly cheap with no extra modification required (but some require mods). This would be one to do a new post for or search through the forums.
Spider, you said something about the RT on/off in my classic valve. What is this? I am also lost on what a HPA system is and what it does. You said that I need a fast supply of air to operate the X-Valve, what do you mean by this? You put that I need a high pressure HP reg @ 900 + psi (reactive single trigger) and/or ULT kit, I am sorry but you lost me on this. Is the ULT kit something I can put on my Classic 68? I have a Crossfire 4500 psi nitro tank but I think it is a low pressure tank that I run on my Rat Impulse. Would I have to buy a new tank just to run my Automag with a X-Valve?
Maybe yes maybe no. nitro tanks used to be ok, but now there are lower pressure nitro tanks which gives automag fits. It sucks because these lower pressure tanks dont actually help anything on other guns (but give high pressure guns fits)
. Basically they put out 500psi or so instead of 800+ (which an automag needs. If yours is an older tank it should be fine, but the low pressure tanks are colour coted on the regulator so visit the crossfire site to check.
I'm sorry to sound lost but I am
. I was just hoping to up grade my Classic 68 to get it to shoot more paint than it does stock. I do not like the trigger pull on it or the way the hopper goes on. I am going to put a Warp Feed on whatever Automag I decide on but as far as making a lighter trigger pull and getting more paint out of my Classic 68 is where I get lost. I was told to come on this forum and ask these questions because you guys know your thing inside and out on these markers. I will sell my Classic 68 if I can not upgrade it to do the things I want it to do but if it will cost me $600 dollars to upgrade it then I might look into the RT ULE custom like you guys suggested. If I do the RT ULE custom I will be asking what all the upgrades it has listed means because I do not understand the difference in Trigger Valve type On/Off Assy- RT/Retro and ULE trigger pull kit.
Basically there are 100001 options you can take
For what you want you can do an x valve or do an elctro frame, it depends which you will like more (basically see if you can borrow one of each). Also upgrading classic mags is complicated since the price of the RT ULE custom is fairly cheap especially with upgrades, which makes upgrading old classics not worth while (unless you only get something small).
Well if you are going to buy an x valve and double trigger grip frame the ULE custom is $80 more for a whole new body, rail etc. If you do this here is a guide:
1)select an x valve: pick the colour you want (but they have only had black for a while now)
2)select a main body:
a) ULE (Aluminium) body you can pick either centre feed, warp left (for right handers), warp right (for lefthanders). ***These warp bodies need a warp feed to be able to use the gun*** **these bodies use different barrels. They use "autococker" barrels instead of twist lock**
b)steel mainbody (old school bodies) what you are used to. You can choose centre feed, hopper left, hopper right, warp left (a shorter hopper right and mounts warp for righthanders), warp right (a shorter hopper left, and mounts warp for lefthanders)
***You can still mount a hopper on the warp bodies in the same way as with your old mag (you can use the gun with or without a warp)***
3)trigger.onoff type: Basically this allows you to get a ULT or not. I recommend getting the stock on/off and getting the ULT seperate ($50) since then you can easily switch back and forth if you want (you would be stuck with the ULT otherwise)
5) select a barrel: Mainly select a barrel for which mainbody (steel or ule) you chose since the two different styles of mainbody take different kinds of barrels. Mainly you would need to get a ULE barrel if you went with the new aluminium bodies.
6) select ball detent: Select stock detend since this is ONLY for the ULE bodies, and if you select the ULE bodies, the stock ULE detend is just fine.
Again, thank you for your time in helping me with this project. I would like to keep my Classic 68 and upgrade it but if it will cost me to much or I can not upgrade it to do the things I want it to do, I will go another route with my woods ball marker (Example RT ULE Custom)
If you want a good and cool looking woodsball gun, pick up a Classic RT
Last edited by Tao; 01-09-2008, 07:22 PM.Comment
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Thank you Spider and Tao with all your suggestions and information you have giving me. With the cost of upgrading my custom 68, the RT ULE custom is not looking to bad right now.Originally posted by Taook.....
And after all that, ebay could be the way to go too, since you can get a RT pro with an x valve for less than a new x valve would be anyway
If you want a good and cool looking woodsball gun, pick up a Classic RTComment
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Thats pretty much what I did. I kept my 68 classic though cause it is still fun to play with simplicity sometimesOriginally posted by Lude55
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Originally posted by TaoThats pretty much what I did. I kept my 68 classic though cause it is still fun to play with simplicity sometimes
I know but I am starting to get to many paintball markers. I have a Tippmann 98 with the Response/Cyclone kit installed on it, I have a Rat Impulse with the WAS board in it, a Classic 68 Automag, and Dye DM4. I need to start selling some of them and because I have not done anything to the 68 Automag I believe it will be the first to go. Tao I want to thank you personally for your time on helping me with this. I am sure I will enjoy the RT and I will post my review on it when I put it into action.Comment
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